An ambitious project – double-breasted denim jacket

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I’ve always loved the idea of a denim jacket.  I can’t remember ever owning one.  I also can’t remember a time when they haven’t been a fashion item.

I spend a lot of time people watching and I noticed a few people wearing black denim jackets, including plus size people.  I decided to have a go making one.

Resizing the pattern to fit

I bought fabric online from Backstreet Bargains and a Mimi G pattern.  I knew Mimi G had some plus size designs.  My sewing teacher (who is very wise) encouraged me to make a muslin first and I’m glad she did because it turned out the largest size in the pattern didn’t fit.

The tutor and I spent a lot of time resizing the pattern which was a great skill to learn.  Of course it is easier if you can find a pattern that fits your measurements so you don’t have to make such adjustments.

Cutting errors

When it came time to cut the denim fabric, it turned out I had resized some of the muslin pieces incorrectly.  This meant re-doing those pieces.  There were more mistakes in that process.  I had to buy more fabric. 

My advice is measure twice (or more) and cut once.  Find a willing sewing friend to carefully check your measurements on each piece before cutting.

Some of the fabric was blemished so I had to work the pattern pieces around the blemishes.  There was not enough fabric left on the roll to do this so I bought more fabric.

Unpicking and resewing

When the pieces were finally cut, sewing the denim actually wasn’t that difficult.  It is quite a stiff fabric so it goes through the machine easily. I used a denim needle which obviously made sewing easier than a standard needle.

However, I still discovered pieces that did not quite fit. Even after unpicking and trying a second time or third time, they wouldn’t quite fit and I’d find myself unpicking and sewing again. I cut the waistband piece twice before I made it fit.

Lining a denim jacket

Just to complicate things a little more, I decided to line the jacket with a silver French-themed satin. I think this is what makes the jacket stand out as something a bit different.

Eventually, after about two-and-a-half years, the jacket was finally finished. Everyone who sees it thinks its stunning. They can’t believe I made it.

Check the pattern is what you want before you buy it

Actually, I don’t wear it much because I don’t like it – it’s collarless and double breasted with a diagonal zip which is not really what I wanted.  I wanted a traditional denim jacket with a collar.

What making this jacket taught me was to look carefully at patterns to make sure I like them before buying the pattern.  If you have an image in mind of what you want the garment to look like when it’s finished, look carefully at the all the features of the garment on the pattern to ensure it matches that image.  If not, it is possible to make changes but as a beginner, it is much easier just to follow the pattern.

I have to say, making a denim jacket was pretty ambitious but I achieved it. I learned so many new techniques.  I am keen to make another but I’m looking for the right pattern that matches what I have in mind.

Here are a few examples: