Whether you’re new to sewing or have years of experience, a well-stocked sewing kit is key to an enjoyable sewing experience. There are even a few tools for plus size sewing that can make all the difference to craft garments that fit beautifully and flatter every curve. Let’s dive into the must-have items for your sewing kit that will help you create stunning, size-inclusive pieces with ease.
Quality Fabric Shears
Fabric shears are specialised scissors designed for cutting fabric with precision. Their sharp, angled blades ensure clean cuts and ergonomic handles provide comfort during extended use. Essential for sewing, they come in various sizes and designs.
Investing in high-quality fabric scissors is non-negotiable. Dull or poorly made scissors can fray or otherwise damage your fabric and slow you down. Having sharp fabric shears will make cutting smooth and precise.
TOP TIPS:
Keep fabric shears and paper cutting scissors separate.
Fabric shears can quickly get blunt if you use them to cut other things.
Ensure family members know this rule and to ask before they use any of your tools, not just scissors.
Measuring tape
A measuring tape is a flexible, sometimes retractable tool used to measure length or dimensions. Typically marked with inches and centimetres, it’s essential for sewing, tailoring, and crafting. Its lightweight design allows for easy storage just roll it up or retract it into its holder.
Standard measuring tapes are great but for plus size sewing, you might need one a bit longer. Some extend up to 120 inches. This tool is important for accurately measuring body dimensions to ensure the right fit for all shapes and sizes. A measuring tape is also useful for determining fabric requirements and for making adjustments.
Pattern Weights
Pattern weights are heavy objects used to hold fabric and patterns in place while cutting. They prevent fabric from shifting, ensuring accuracy when tracing or cutting out patterns. Commonly made from metal, plastic, or fabric-filled materials, they offer a safer alternative to pins.
Fabric weights are especially handy when working with delicate fabrics can be easily damaged by pins. Slippery fabrics will often be easier to work with using pattern weights rather than pins. Just make sure you have enough to hold the pattern in place while cutting.
Pattern weights are fun to make. There are lots of patterns and video instructions online. Try making your own using one of the below patterns. (None of the below are affiliate links)
Grainline studio – requires buying a pattern or subscribing to newsletter to get it free
Dressmaking Pins and Clips
No sewing kit is complete without pins and there are many different types for different uses. However, pins can be prone to bending. They can also be painful if you slip and stab your fingers. Wonder clips are also useful to have in your toolkit. These can securely hold thick layers of fabric without the risk of snagging or distortion and I’ve not heard of anyone injured by a wonder clip. Clips are also helpful where the pattern calls for curves such as around a neckline or arm hole.
TOP TIPS:
Ironing with plastic headed pins attached can melt their colours into the fabric and possibly ruin your iron.
Glass headed pins are better in this situation.
Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marking Pens
Tailor’s chalk is a soft, erasable marking tool used in sewing and tailoring to trace patterns onto fabric. Available in various forms—such as pencils, squares, or wheels—it allows for precise, temporary markings that are easily removed after cutting.
Other marking tools can be erased with water. Some are erasable under heat from friction or when ironed.
Tailor’s chalk or fabric marking pens are essential for transferring marks from your pattern to the fabric. I find them especially helpful for marking and pinning darts.
TOP TIPS: Test fabric markers (and ability to erase) on scraps before using. Keep marks as small as possible and within seamlines or hemline wherever possible. Keep a spray bottle handy to wash out marks before ironing as the iron can set the marks into the fabric.
Seam ripper
A seam ripper (also known as a quick unpick or stitch unpicker) is a small tool used in sewing to remove stitches. It typically features a sharp, pointed blade with a small, curved end that helps slide under stitches for easy cutting.
Mistakes happen and that’s where a seam ripper comes in handy. Whether you’re making a minor adjustment or need to rip out an entire seam or more, this tool is a lifesaver. Careful use of a seam ripper ensures you can correct errors without damaging the fabric. Some people get frustrated when having to spend time undoing their work with a seam ripper but it is worth it to get the best result.
TOP TIPS:
Be patient and careful when using a seam ripper. Keep in mind that unpicking is part of the sewing process.
Measuring Gauge
A measuring gauge is a small, adjustable tool used in sewing to measure and mark precise distances or seam allowances. It typically has a sliding marker that can be set to different measurements, allowing for accuracy and consistency.
Half inch measurements are common for seams. A quarter inch is most often used in quilting but can also be common in certain parts of dressmaking such as necklines. Eighth inch measurements are often used for topstitching and under stitching.
Elastic
Elastic is a stretchable material commonly used in sewing to provide flexibility and a snug fit in garments. It is typically made from a blend of rubber or spandex fibres and is available in various widths and strengths. Elastic can be sewn into waistbands, cuffs, and other areas where stretch is needed, allowing for comfort and ease of movement. It comes in different forms, such as flat, braided, or knitted, depending on the application.
Elastic is used for waistbands, cuffs and other areas. In plus size sewing, elastic can be particularly handy for garments that require extra stretch. For example you might be sewing a standard waistband but find the required cut does not fit well. Just a little elastic in the back or sides may solve the problem. Keep a variety of elastic sizes in your sewing kit to ensure you can add a bit if needed.
French Curve or Hip Curve Ruler
A French curve is a curved template used in sewing and pattern drafting to create smooth, flowing curves. It is typically made of clear plastic or acrylic and features a range of curved edges to help design armholes, necklines, and other rounded areas of a pattern. The French curve allows for precise and consistent shaping, making it an essential tool for tailoring and garment design.
Pattern adjustments such as grading between sizes are often necessary in plus size sewing and a French curve can help you create smooth, natural curves, especially when adjusting bust, waist, and hip areas on patterns. It’s particularly useful when grading between sizes to enhance fit and comfort.
Hand sewing needles
Hand sewing needles are slender, pointed tools used for sewing by hand. They come in various types, each designed for specific fabrics and sewing tasks. Even if you primarily use a sewing machine, hand-sewing needles are handy for attaching buttons, hemming and small repairs. There are often fiddly areas where a sewing machine just can’t quite reach so a hand sewing needle needs to be used. Keep an assortment of sizes to work with different fabrics and threads. For example, if you are sewing beads on your garments (which can add a unique flair), you will need a very thin needle.
Needle threader
If you have impaired vision or unsteady hands, a needle threader will make threading easier. Let’s face it, threading the eye of a needle is challenging even for those who can see and hold thread steady. Most needle threaders feature a small loop of fine wire attached to a flat or decorative handle. To use, you insert the wire loop through the needle’s eye, pass the thread through the loop, and then pull the wire back, bringing the thread through the needle – easy peasy.
Tweezers
Tweezers are small, handheld tools with two narrow tips for gripping, picking up, and manipulating small objects. In sewing, they are particularly useful for handling delicate fabrics, removing stray threads or placing beads and sequins precisely. Tweezers come in various designs each suited to different tasks requiring fine control and precision.
Tweezers are invaluable for fiddly jobs, such as pulling threads through tight spaces, removing loose threads, tying off ends or removing thread nests. They also assist in positioning fabric pieces accurately under the presser foot. I use my tweezers to thread my sewing machine needle. Tweezers provide a steady grip on the thread, making it easier to guide through the eye of the needle, especially for fine or slippery threads.
Pressing cloth
A pressing cloth is a protective piece of fabric used in sewing to shield delicate fabrics from direct heat when pressing with an iron. It helps prevent shine, scorch marks, or fabric damage by creating a barrier between the iron and the fabric. Pressing cloths are typically made from cotton, linen, or muslin and are used to protect sensitive materials like silk, wool, or satin. They keep seams crisp during pressing.
A pressing cloth can also be used when applying interfacing to prevent the sticky surface adhering to the iron. While you can buy pressing cloth, you can also make your own.
Points turner
A point turner is a small, versatile sewing tool designed to create sharp, crisp corners and edges on sewn items. Typically made of plastic or wood, it features a pointed end for precision and a flat, slightly curved side for smoothing seams. Point turners are essential when working on projects like collars, cuffs, pillows or bags, where neatly defined edges or corners enhance the overall finish. By gently pushing fabric outward from the inside, a points turner ensures clean, professional-looking results without damaging the fabric. Of course you don’t have to buy a specific tool, some people use a chop stick, knitting needle or other alternatives they have on hand.
Bias tape maker
A bias tape maker is a handy tool used to create custom bias tape from fabric strips. It folds the edges of fabric toward the centre, forming even, double-fold or single-fold bias tape for finishing edges, binding seams, or adding decorative accents. Bias tape makers come in various sizes to suit different project needs. They simplify the process, ensuring precision and consistency. While it is possible to make bias tape without this gadget, doing so runs the risk of burning your fingertips on the iron. Perfect for quilting, garment sewing and crafts, they save time and elevate the quality of handmade projects.
Pin cushion/pin tin
A pin cushion is a small, soft and often decorative tool used in sewing to store pins and needles safely and conveniently. Typically filled with materials like sawdust, crushed walnut shells, wool, or polyester, pin cushions keep pins sharp and prevent them from scattering. They come in various shapes, such as traditional tomatoes, wristbands, or novelty designs, adding charm to a sewing kit.
Rotary Cutter and Mat
A rotary cutter is a circular blade tool used in sewing for cutting fabric. It functions similarly to a rotary pizza cutter, with a sharp blade that rotates as it moves across the fabric. Rotary cutters are often used with a cutting mat to protect surfaces and a ruler to achieve straight, precise cuts. They are particularly useful for cutting multiple layers of fabric at once and are favoured for quilting and garment making due to their speed and accuracy. Rotary cutters come in various blade sizes, typically ranging from 28mm to 60mm, depending on the thickness of the fabric and the cutting task.
A rotary cutter is most often used to cut small pieces for quilting. However, some dressmakers also use them as they can speed up the cutting process, especially on larger pattern pieces common in plus size sewing. However, they can be difficult to control and can slide off the cutting line and make cuts where you don’t want them. I’ve also heard of some terrible injuries sustained by people using a rotary cutter.
TOP TIPS:
Buy a rotary cutter that has a safety catch which retracts and locks the blade when not in use.
Always leave the blade retracted (and preferably locked) when not actively using the cutter.
Adjustable Dress Form
A dress form is a mannequin used in sewing to help create and fit garments. It is typically adjustable at the bust, waist and hip allowing for changes in size and shape to match the wearer’s measurements. Dress forms are made of materials like foam, fabric or plastic and are designed to mimic the human torso, providing a stable base for pattern making, draping fabric and fitting. While not really a “toolkit” item and definitely not essential, dress forms are especially useful for visualising how a garment will look on a body and ensuring accurate fit.
It’s not really a tool kit item but if you sew regularly for plus size bodies, an adjustable dress form that can be expanded to different measurements is a game-changer. This allows you to better visualize your garments during construction and ensures that your finished pieces will drape beautifully on various body types.
Final Thoughts
Having the right tools in your sewing kit is essential. These tools not only make the process smoother but also ensure the garments you create fit comfortably and look fantastic. Whether you’re creating a custom dress, altering a favourite pair of jeans or crafting a cozy sweater, make sure your sewing kit is equipped with these essential tools to bring your plus size sewing projects to life.