The ultimate guide to choosing a dress form

If you love sewing, a dress form can be a game-changer in your creative process. Dress forms are one of the most valuable investments for any sewist, especially for those making garments that require precise fitting.

Whether you are adjusting a commercial pattern, draping fabric, or simply checking the fit of a garment before stitching, a dress form acts as your personal sewing assistant. However, finding the right one—especially for plus-size sewing—can be a challenge.

In this guide, we will explore everything you need to know about dress forms, including uses, types, what stage in your sewing journey you should consider buying a dress form, things to consider before buying, how to care for your dress form and reasons you may not even need a dress form.

What is a dress form?

A dress form is a three-dimensional replica of the human body used to drape fabric to create personally-designed clothing and check fit. A dress form makes it easier to construct and alter clothing. Unlike a store mannequin, which is mainly for display, a dress form is specifically designed for garment fitting and pattern making.  Dress forms come in various sizes, styles and materials and they can be adjustable, single-size or custom made to fit your exact measurements.

Why use a dress form?

Using a dress form can significantly improve your sewing experience:

• Better fitting: Adjusting and pinning garments on a dress form that replicates your body measurements is easier than doing so on your own body and avoids the minor pain of having pins stuck into your skin.
• Efficient pattern adjustments: A dress form will help if you want to modify commercial patterns for a better personal fit, especially if the pattern size range does not include your measurements.
• Draping and designing: Use a dress form to create new designs by directly shaping fabric on the form.  Draping also allows you to see how your fabric will behave once sewn.  This is especially useful when working with challenging fabrics or intricate designs.
• Faster alterations: A dress form can drastically speed up the sewing process.  With accurate fitting from the start, you will not waste time making alterations.
• Showcasing garments: If you sell or photograph your work, a dress form provides a polished display.
• Confidence in your work:  When your dress form reflects your body exactly, you can sew with confidence, knowing the garments you create will fit well and flatter your shape. This is particularly empowering for plus-size sewists, who often struggle to find off-the-rack clothing that fits properly.

Types of dress forms

When shopping for a dress form, you will find different types. Here are the most common ones:

1. Adjustable dress forms

These dress forms have dials or sliders that allow you to customize the size, making them great for those whose measurements fall between standard sizes.  Adjustability makes a dress form a versatile option for sewists who work with different body sizes and are not only sewing for themselves.

• Pros: Customisable, good for multiple sizes, relatively affordable.
  • Cons: Some may not expand enough for plus-size bodies.  Adjusting for different sizes can be time-consuming. 

2. Standard (fixed-size) dress forms

These forms are made in a single size and are often more durable than adjustable ones. They work well if you consistently sew for yourself and do not need size adjustments.

• Pros: Sturdier, often more realistic in shape.
• Cons: Limited to one size.  Can be expensive if custom fit.

3. Metal frame dress forms

Metal frame forms are useful for aesthetic purposes.  People who sew clothes for markets or shops often use a metal frame dress form to display their garments.  These kinds of dress forms do not have the versatility needed for garment fitting, fabric draping and pattern making and certainly cannot be adjusted for different body types. 

Pros: They are pretty to look at and sturdy enough to hang heavy garments.

Cons:  Heavy, inflexible and awkward to move around.

4. Mannequins

A mannequin is also used for display purposes in shops.  Often these are full body models sometimes made from plastic, wood or polystyrene.  Some have removable limbs.  They are not useful for dressmaking because they are rigid, non-adjustable, often unrealistic body shapes and unsuitable for pinning, draping or fitting.

5. Professional dress forms

High-end dress forms, often used by fashion designers and tailors, have a padded foam surface allowing for easy pinning. Some are collapsible or have wheels for mobility.

• Pros: Extremely durable, realistic shaping, great for pinning fabric.
• Cons: Expensive.  Not usually available in plus sizes.

6. DIY Dress Forms

For plus-size sewists, finding a dress form that truly represents their shape can be difficult. Many off-the-rack dress forms max out at smaller sizes, leaving curvier sewists without a good option.  A possible solution is to add padding to make a smaller dress form to better reflect your body.  However, a better option is to make your own.  There are two options – create your own mould of your body or send away your measurements and receive a pattern to make a dress form which matches your shape.

• Pros: Perfectly matches your body.  Budget-friendly.  Fun to make.
• Cons: Requires time and effort. May not be as durable as store-bought models.  Not easy to change if your body shape or size changes.

7. Custom made dress forms

3D body scanning is an exciting technology used to create a custom-made dress form which ensures a perfect fit. Whether you are a plus-size sewist or someone with unique proportions, this personalised approach eliminates the need for adjustments during fitting.

• Pros: Perfectly matches your body whatever shape or size it is.
• Cons: Not available in all countries. Can be expensive.

8. A fit buddy

A fit buddy is a fellow sewist who can check the fit of your garments and pin for adjustments while you wear it.  This is especially useful if you cannot find a dress form in your size. A fit buddy can also provide feedback on fabric drape and movement, and overall look. 

• Pros: Useful if you do not have a correctly sized dress form.   Can be a fun and social way to sew with a friend.
• Cons: Scheduling time with a fit buddy may not always be convenient.

When to buy a dress form

A dress form becomes an important tool at different stages of a sewist’s journey, depending on their skills, goals and sewing preferences. Here are key milestones where investing in a dress form might be beneficial:

1. When first starting out

When trying on clothing you are sewing for yourself, undressing, dressing and redressing can be tiresome. If a sewist finds it difficult to pin, adjust or visualise garments while working on a flat surface, a dress form can speed up the process.  It allows for easier hemming and ensures good seam placement.  It is also helpful if you are a little self-conscious in your skin.

2. Moving on from basic garment construction skills

Once a sewist has mastered basic garment construction, they may wish to buy a dress form to refine their fitting skills.  If a sewist is moving beyond sewing with flat patterns and experimenting with adding their own features, a dress form can provide a stable structure for shaping designs.

3. Sewing for plus sizes

A dress form is particularly useful for plus-size sewists who struggle with inconsistent pattern sizing and need to make alterations to fit.  Adding inches to pattern pieces is possible on a flat surface but a dress form is especially useful to modify commercial patterns that do not feature plus sizes.

4. Sewing for others or professionally

If a sewist is working on commission, making costumes or sewing for clients, a dress form helps with fittings when the wearer is not present.  A custom-padded or adjustable dress form can replicate different body shapes for different clients, allowing for more accurate alterations.

5. Learning draping techniques

If a sewist is interested in creating their own original designs, a dress form is essential for draping (manipulating fabric on a form).  Transitioning from commercial patterns to custom-made clothing requires adding interesting details like pleats or ruching.

6. Making tailored garments

Tailoring is the art of creating high-end fashion such as premium suits and exquisite red-carpet coutre, wedding gowns, special occasion wear and one-off unique pieces that are impeccably made. Skilled tailors refine silhouettes, ensuring clothing flatters the wearer. Tailoring goes beyond using patterns or transforming off-the-rack pieces and instead personalises fashion, emphasising craftsmanship, detail and individuality.

Why you might NOT need a dress form

Rushing into a purchase is never a good idea.  Because there are so many different dress form options, there is a lot to think about before you buy one.  It is better to wait until you have found the perfect option for you rather than stretching your budget to buy something with features you do not use enough to justify the cost.  There are several reasons a sewist might not need a dress form.

1. Personal Fit Limitations – Most commercial dress forms do not accurately represent real body shapes, especially for plus-size individuals. Padding and alterations can help, but they may not fully replicate personal measurements.
2. Flat Pattern Adjustments – Many sewists successfully alter patterns using flat pattern methods, such as full bust adjustments (FBAs) and slash-and-spread techniques, without needing a dress form.
3. Fitting on the Body – Some prefer to fit garments directly on themselves or a willing model.  Mirror setups or photos can help with checking fit.
4. Cost and Storage – Dress forms can be expensive and take up significant space. Budget constraints are another consideration.
5. Limited Use for Some Projects – If a sewist primarily makes loose-fitting clothing or garments with significant stretch, a dress form may not be essential.
6. Alternative Methods – Many sewists use draping techniques directly on themselves or create a custom duct tape or paper tape form as a budget-friendly alternative.

Things to consider before investing in a dress form

If you are still developing your skills and primarily sew loose-fitting or stretchy knit garments, you may not need a dress form right away. However, once you reach a point where accurate fitting and shaping become priorities, investing in one—or making a DIY custom form—can be a game-changer.

If you decide you do need a dress form and you are ready to buy one, there are several things to think about to ensure the one you buy aligns with your needs and helps improve your sewing experience rather than being disappointed.  Here are the key things to consider before making the investment.

1. Adjustability

Adjustable dress forms are versatile tools that allow you to modify the bust, waist, and hip measurements. Adjustability can be especially helpful for sewists who are not only sewing for themselves because they can be adjusted to fit to the measurements of others.  Look for a dress form with dial or slider adjustments or one that offers some other kind of ability to change the shape. 

Tip: Make sure adjustments can be made easily without tools, especially if you plan on altering garments frequently.

2. Body Measurements

The primary purpose of a dress form is to replicate your body’s shape and size. You need to take accurate body measurements, including upper bust, full bust, waist and hips and ensure the dress form can match them.  This is particularly important if you or those for whom you are sewing are plus size.

Tip: Check whether the dress form allows for easy adjustment in key areas like the waist or bust to match your measurements.

3. Height

A dress form with adjustable height helps to reduce strain on your back and ensures you work in a comfortable position. This feature is especially useful for taller or shorter sewists who may need a height adjustment to match their body proportions.  It is also useful if you are working on a project for a long time, perhaps if you are pulling an all-nighter to meet a deadline for a client, fashion show or competition.  Any plus size sewist would tell you being on your feet all day or even standing up and sitting down between dress form and machine can be painful.

• Tip: Check whether the dress form can lock securely at your preferred height.

4. Materials and durability

The material used for the dress form will affect its longevity and usability. Common materials include foam, fabric, wood, fibreglass, polystyrene and metal. Foam-covered dress forms tend to be lightweight and affordable.  You can easily pin fabric to them if intending to design your own pieces.  However, fabric-covered or polystyrene dress forms can offer more realistic draping. Choose a material that suits your sewing style and durability needs.

• Tip: If you frequently sew heavy fabrics like wool or denim, opt for a sturdier dress form with a more solid structure to cope with the weight.

5. Portability

Consider whether you need a dress form that is easy to move around. Some forms come with a base on wheels for better mobility, while others are stationary. Portability is important if you frequently take your dress form to sewing classes, workshops, events or client’s homes.  Lightweight and collapsible options are best for sewists who need to move frequently.

• Tip: Look for a dress form with a stable base and lightweight construction if portability is important to you.

6. Type of dress form

Consider whether an adjustable dress form is necessary or if a fixed-size form will meet your needs. Think about whether your projects will involve draping and pattern making, as this may influence your choice. If a dress form in your size is not available, a custom-made one might be the best solution or you could try making your own or find a fit buddy.  If the dress form is only to hang clothes for display, a metal form or mannequin will do.

7. Storage

If space is limited in your sewing room or studio, consider how easy it will be to store your dress form.  One of the worst things in a small sewing room is having your tools get in the way.  Having an easy to store dress form ensures it will not take up valuable space when you are not using it.  Conversely, having to pack away and unpack the dress form every time you need to use it can be annoying and time consuming.

• Tip: Look for a dress form that will fit your space and not just your clothes. 

8.  Special features

Some dress forms come with additional features such as removable and washable covers, adjustable necklines or extra padding for adding shape.  This added padding does not always mean a small dress form can be made into a plus size dress form.  If you are buying from a retail outlet, ask if you try out the dress form in the store to see if it suits your needs.  At the very least, ask for a demonstration and take notes, especially if the demonstrator is struggling with the product.  Ensure the demonstration includes all the features of the dress form.

• Tip: Before buying a dress form, test its adjustability. Some features may sound great on paper but can be tricky in practice.

9. Price and budget

Dress forms come in a wide range of prices and of course this is something to consider but not to the neglect of other factors.  While cheaper forms may be tempting, they may lack the customisation options you need, such as full adjustability or accurate body representation. It is better to spend a bit more to ensure your dress form has all the features you need.  If you are just starting out using a dress form, you may find a cheaper option or a home-made dress form is best to try out first to see how much you use it (or not).

• Tip: Compare the price and features of different dress forms to find a balance between affordability and functionality.

Caring for your dress form

To keep your dress form in great condition:

• Store it in a cool, dry place to prevent mildew or rust.
• Do not leave fabric draped on the dress form for long periods or it may leave impressions in the fabric.
• If using an adjustable dress form, be gentle with the dials and do not adjust beyond the form’s capability.
• If you have a DIY or homemade dress form, reinforce with extra tape, foam or stuffing over time.
• Handle with care.  Do not lean on or put excessive weight on the dress form.
• Do not let children play with your dress form.
• If using pins, avoid leaving them stuck in the form for long periods to prevent fabric damage or rust stains. Avoid excessive pinning so your dress form does not become covered in holes.
• If you add padding to customise the form, make sure it is secured properly to avoid shifting.
• Avoid placing your dress form near heaters or fireplaces as extreme temperatures can warp parts, dry out fabric or even cause your dress form to catch fire.
• If not in use for a while, disassemble (if possible) and store in a cool, dry place.
• Always cover your dress form when not in use to keep dust off. Remove and wash covers regularly.  Use a lint roller to remove dust if necessary.
• Regularly inspect the stand and base to ensure screws are tightened to prevent wobbling or tipping over.  Clean hard parts with a damp cloth.
• Avoid direct sunlight, especially if your form is made of foam or has a fabric cover so it does not fade or deteriorate. 
• Keep away from cats and dogs.  Pets might be tempted to scratch, chew or rub against the form and they may get hurt if it topples on them.