HomeUncategorizedHow I chose the perfect jacquard fabric for my jacket

How I chose the perfect jacquard fabric for my jacket

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Starting a new sewing project is always thrilling and a little terrifying. My Sandra Betzina Vogue Today’s Fit jacket had been on my mind for months. The pattern had been copied, admired in Jenna’s version and was ready to go. But the fabric? Oh, the fabric had other plans, especially when it came to choosing jacquard fabic.

How to embrace jacquard fabric fret

For a couple of months, I found myself pacing around swatches like a fashion detective.

First, I looked in my local Timaru Sewing Centre.  The owner, Linda, and I looked at several possibilities but nothing really grabbed me.  “I feel like something plummy,” I told Linda. She turned around and held up a deep, satiny plum on a black background with a baroque-like print that shimmered in the light.  Could this be jacquard fabric?

At first glance, it seemed perfect. I even said aloud: “Yes, that’s perfect!” Linda cut off a small sample for me to take home and put the rest aside with my name on it.

The baroque-style plum pattern on black fabric.

However, the longer I looked at the sample, the less enthusiastic I became. Did it really fit into my wardrobe? I have plenty of black but no plum. While undeniably beautiful, was this fabric really me? Cue the familiar sewing-dilemma anxiety.

The jacquard fabric temptation

I spent hours looking at other potential fabrics I had taken photos of at The Fabric Store in Christchurch.  I had come across a black-and-cream jacquard fabric with bold cream sketch work florals and leaves on a grey background.  This time there was no mistaking it was jacquard fabric.  It was on the label. Initially I thought the jacquard might be a bit heavy but it was a similar weight to the black and plum fabric Linda had shown me.  I realised it could actually work. I stared at the photos imagining it forming into the jacket.

About six months after seeing it the first time, I emailed the store to see if they still had any of the jacquard fabric. Unfortunately, the Christchurch store had sold out, but the Auckland store had plenty. After a few minutes of deliberation, I requested five metres.

Bold flowers and leaves pattern in jacquard fabric.

One good thing about this fabric was I had waited so long to buy it, it was now on special. Even if I decided not to use it for this project, it was there waiting for other inspiration.

The rollercoaster of decision-making

Finally, the jacquard fabric arrived. There was still a flutter of nerves as I picked up the parcel which had been delivered to my door.  I unwrapped it carefully, unfolded it and thought “Hmm… is this really right?”.

I washed it and hung it on the line to dry. It swayed gently like it was teasing me, ready for scissors and overlocker. Even the “wrong” side of the fabric started looking “right”.

The decision-making process was a full-on rollercoaster. I cut a sample off the fabric and put it next to the plum and black fabric.  I carried both samples around with me, looking at them often.

Linda had been incredibly supportive, holding the plum fabric aside for months while I thought about it.  I felt a bit guilty if I chose the jacquard instead. Talking it through with Linda, friends and family helped me weigh wardrobe fit, pattern matching, yardage, and logistics. All these tiny details nudged me toward a choice.

I decided to go with the floral jacquard fabric.

There was still that nervous flutter that says, this is it, now it’s real. There was also relief and excitement. The indecision was over.  The jacket was finally going to be made.

Lessons learned about choosing fabric

Looking back, I’ve learned a few key things about choosing fabric for a big project:

  • Trust your instincts. That quiet pull toward a fabric is usually spot-on.
  • Talk it out. Trusted advisors can help untangle the indecision.
  • Constraints can be your friend. Available yardage, pattern requirements, cost and timing can actually force clarity.
  • Print and personality matter. A print carries mood, scale and presence. It’s not just decoration, it’s identity.

If I’ve learned anything deciding between the shiny plum-and-black baroque and the floral jacquard, it’s that fabric choice is as much about the journey as the project itself. Pangs of guilt and bursts of excitement are all part of the journey.

The fun begins

The first class of the term was spent pinning pattern pieces to the fabric, cutting them and marking them with symbols from the pattern. The next day, I overlocked around the outside of all the pieces. Finally I was ready to sew and the real fun could begin, seeing this jacket come to life, one seam at a time. Will I love it? Nervously, I hope so but either way, the indecision, the joy, the little dramas have been completely worth it so far.

Talk to me

Tell me about a time you couldn’t decide what fabric to pick for a garment you wanted to make. Have you ever sewed with jacquard fabric before?

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