I spotted the most gorgeous deep teal linen and knew it had to be a dress. Cue the Sydney Designer Dress from Style Arc, a few naughty-corner moments, some clever pleats, and a high-low hem that dances with every step. From panic over too much fabric to the thrill of a better fit, this dress is all about colour, shape and the joy of finishing a project that is truly my own.
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Linen is a great choice
It is a while ago that I bought this linen but I’m pretty sure I bought it from The Fabric Store. They have a great range of linens both plain and patterned.
Linen has always been one of my favourite fabrics. There is something about its light, drapey feel, the way it breathes and the subtle texture that makes it so satisfying to work with. When I spotted a gorgeous deep teal linen, I knew it was calling my name. The colour is hard to describe. It is a rich mix of dark aqua with a hint of greeny-blue and I couldn’t resist it. Fabric like this demands attention, and I was ready for the challenge.
The Sydney Designer Dress
It was definitely the fabric that seduced me before the pattern but it didn’t wait in my stash long before I found the perfect pattern for it.
My inspiration for the dress came from seeing a woman in a café wearing what is known as a cocoon shaped dress. It often happens that I get inspiration from what others are wearing then go looking for a pattern to make one for myself.
The Sydney Designer Dress pattern by Style Arc follows the same cocoon style as the dress that inspired me. It has three panels in the front, two in the back, short sleeves and a narrow hem band that swoops lower in the back. I was already picturing long summer evenings and workdays made brighter by this dress.
The Sydney Designer Dress from Style Arc has a curved neckline and an empire-style waist, although on me it sits more across the apex of my bust than under it.
The café-customer’s dress was a soft pink gingham linen – so in right now. However, I knew my gorgeous green-blue/aqua linen would be lovely made as a Sydney Designer Dress.
Not as easy as it looks
The dress went together easily. I loved sewing those long seams with their gentle curves.
Of course, my sewing projects rarely go smoothly and while I had lots of confidence in this one, it turned out I picked the wrong size, a common error for me lately.
The pattern size chart indicated size 24 had a bust only slightly bigger than mine. I thought it would only need a slight adjustment from the waist and hips. I was wrong.
The dress was enormous! Yes it fitted in the bust, shoulders and slee`ves but the shape in the remainder of the dress made it look like I was wearing a tent.
Into the naughty corner
With the help of my now-retired tutor, pins were added to take it in and suggestions made. I no longer felt confident. The dress had three front panels which I thought meant the risk of a wonky shape if I only took in two seams. I knew I needed a serious adjustment but the fear of ruining the gorgeous linen sent the dress straight to the naughty corner. A little sulk space for projects that need extra TLC.
Sydney’s second try
Fast forward to my new tutor, who is also the owner of the Timaru Sewing Centre where the classes are held. The first thing she said? “Put it on.” Just as I feared, even with the pins the previous tutor and I put in the seams, the dress was still very big. We carefully changed the pin placement and ensured the same amount was marked for removal on each front seam.
Another try on with the new pin placement revealed the pockets had been awkwardly placed in the front panels, making the shape bulky and the front heavy. I decided to remove the pockets. With them gone, the fabric could finally drape like it was meant to.
Drastic overlocking
The back needed no adjustments. Like I said, the bust and sleeves were already near enough to perfect. Then came the scary part, overlocking away inches of fabric.
I took off three inches on each front/side panel. It was a huge amount to remove but what a difference it made. I slowly saw the dress transform. The “tent” was gone and in its place was a garment that felt like it could be worn with confidence.
Pleats to the rescue
However, it wasn’t quite perfect yet. Even after the adjustments, the fabric didn’t sit right in the front. The solution? A pleat in the hem band. At first, I hesitated. It made the hem tighter and I was worried I wouldn’t be able to walk with my usual stride. It also made the dress slightly harder to pull over my head and bust. There were no zips or fasteners to undo to give me more wiggle room.
I was worried the pleat would look like an obvious fix rather than meant to be.
I set the project aside between sewing classes. Not in the naughty corner again. I was determined to finish it this time.
Clever thinking
When I returned to class the following week, I had a clever idea. Why not add bands with pleats to the sleeves? Now it wasn’t a fix, it was a design feature. Problem solved.
Pleats added, the sleeve change looked intentional, polished and completely “me.”
The joy of sewing linen
Working with linen is such a delight. It behaves well on the sewing machine. I would describe it as “crispy”. It is not slippery like satin and not stiff like denim. To wear, it drapes beautifully and feels light. Wrinkles? Absolutely but I’ve learned to embrace them. Folding the dress into a project bag meant several rounds of ironing during the making process, but those long, clean seams made it every round or ironing worth the effort.
Compliments on the colour
Wearing the Sydney Designer Dress for the first time was so satisfying. I received lovely comments about the colour. The deep teal really does turn heads and a friend who understands style told me it was flattering. I think she meant the colour, not the fit.
My mum? She was brutally honest: “It’s very big” and “it’s very see-through.” No compliments at first, but hey, we all know mums speak the truth. It did make me think I need a slip under it. I’m planning a Victorian cotton slip, just enough to smooth things out without changing the shape.
As for it being “very big” well, I’d rather have some room in a garment than feel squeezed and uncomfortable and there is certainly no give in linen – it needs breathing space. Having something big and floaty around me makes me feel feminine and graceful.
Lessons learned
This dress reminded me of a key sewing truth. Don’t be afraid to alter a garment if it’s not working. There’s always a way to make it fit your body, rather than trying to fit your body into the garment.
I also rediscovered the pure satisfaction of finishing a project. It had been a while since I completed a dress I was truly happy with. The naughty corner is a part of the process sometimes but seeing the final result makes every challenge worth it.
Another learning was that I need to take more photos before the alterations and during the making process. Even getting a photo of my inspiration would have been useful. I will try to remember for the future.
Looking forward
Knowing how much alteration the original dress required, I am curious to try the recently-released Sydney Designer Dress Extension Pack from Style Arc. It promises a reduced volume (thank goodness) and a better fit. It will be fascinating to see the difference. I’m excited to experiment with its different neckline options, sleeve options but with the same cocoon-inspired shape that I like.
I’m still thinking about what fabric I might choose this time. I love linen so much, that might be my go to for the second time around.
What about the pattern?
I’ve said it before. Many people think Style Arc patterns are a bit scant on detail. The step by step instructions are easy to follow but they do assume you have some construction knowledge. The diagrams are sometimes a bit confusing.
I agree but from what I’ve seen of Style Arc’s recent improvements (more photos on the website than line drawings), this might move into better instructions too.
Pattern makers need to understand that not all people who sew have all the skills. Providing step by step instructions with clear illustrations will lead to a greater level of success, followed by people buying more patterns.
Overall result
This deep teal linen cocoon-style dress is more than just fabric and seams. It’s a celebration of perseverance, problem-solving and joy in creating something uniquely mine. The pleats, the high-low hem and especially the colour make it a dress I am proud to wear. From naughty corner to completed showstopper, this dress reminds me why I love sewing. It is the thrill of the fabric, the challenge of the fit and the delight of going from inspiration to completed creation. I know I have room to improve but for now. I’m really happy with my new dress.