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Revolutionising fashion: The rise of digital sewing patterns

Helen Tatham

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20 October 2024

Revolutionising fashion: The rise of digital sewing patterns

In the ever-evolving world of fashion, where trends come and go in the blink of an eye, the way we create and design our clothes is also undergoing a significant transformation. One of the most exciting advancements in recent years is digital sewing patterns. These innovative tools are changing the landscape of sewing, making it more accessible, sustainable, cost effective and easy to use than ever before. In this blog post, we’ll explore the world of digital sewing patterns, their benefits and some disadvantages and how they are revolutionizing the way we approach fashion and garment making, with a special focus on plus-size options.

Digital sewing patterns are downloadable templates that guide you in creating clothing and accessories. That might sound intimidating but really, they are much the same as traditional patterns, just in a different format. These patterns usually come in PDF format making them versatile and easy to use.

What are digital sewing patterns

Hand sellotaping sewing pattern pieces together

Unlike traditional paper patterns, which are often bulky and prone to wear and tear, digital sewing patterns are files that can be printed at home. However, printing at home often means sticking together lots of A4 pages which is one disadvantage of digital sewing patterns. It can be tricky to line everything up and if you don’t get it right, you can end up wasting your precious fabric. However, there are solutions. It is far better to save the time and send the AO size PDF file to a printer. If you have a projector, this makes using digital sewing patterns even easier but that is a topic for another blog post.

Why digital sewing patterns?

Woman looking at computer with dress form in the background

Digital sewing patterns have revolutionized the sewing world. In particular, there are many clothing designers creating digital sewing patterns with plus size options. It is so encouraging browsing for plus size digital sewing patterns and finding the variety of stylish options that are more likely to fit plus sizes than traditional patterns. Also, they offer several advantages over traditional paper patterns such as instant access. They are space saving, eco friendly and cost effective. Storage is easier and you can get quick answers and help if you have questions while constructing a garment using a digital sewing pattern.

Instant access

One of the most significant advantages of digital sewing patterns is their convenience. With just a few clicks, you can purchase, download, and start using a pattern without leaving your home. This ease of access is especially beneficial for those who live in remote areas or have limited access to physical stores that sell sewing patterns. Additionally, digital patterns eliminate the need to wait for shipping, allowing you to start your project immediately. Digital patterns offer a huge range of different clothing styles which are not available in traditional stores. Digital pattern designers are releasing new patterns all the time so it is easy to keep up with the latest fashion trends and you don’t have to wait for the next season’s pattern book to be available from traditional pattern companies.

Space saving and eco friendly

In an era where sustainability is becoming increasingly important, digital sewing patterns offer an eco-friendly alternative to traditional paper patterns. Digital patterns are stored electronically, saving physical space in your sewing room. Say goodbye to bulky pattern envelopes and stacks of tissue paper. This is a major advantage if you have limited storage space or a small sewing area. Even if you print the patterns, you can recycle the pieces after use and only print them when you need them. You can choose which pieces to print or print only a specific size which saves paper waste compared to a pre-printed pattern of which you might need to use only a part. Of course, if you have a pattern projector, the need for paper is eliminated.

Digital patterns reduce the environmental impact associated with shipping traditional patterns because they are bought online and stored digitally on your computer. By choosing digital patterns, you’re making a more sustainable choice for your sewing projects.

Storage and organisation

Printed sewing patterns hanging on hooks

Storing physical sewing patterns can be a challenge, especially for avid sewers with extensive collections. Digital sewing patterns, on the other hand, take up no physical space. You can store them on your computer, an external hard drive or they can be accessed at the website where you bought them if you set up an account with that pattern design company or even in the cloud, making organization and retrieval a breeze.

Many sewers find it helpful to create a digital catalog of their patterns, complete with tags and categories, for easy access.

The catalogue can include:

details about the pattern (skirt, trousers, top, bathing costume etc)
designer designer detailsdetails
date purchased
price you paid for the pattern
whether you’ve made it before
what size you made it
adjustments you might want to make
fabric samples and links to fabric suppliers
a link to the internet site with examples of the garment made by other sewists
a link to the pattern on your computer or to your account with the designer
details about the pattern (skirt, trousers, top, bathing costume etc)

Even if you want to keep printed patterns to re-use, you can choose how to store them. While traditional patterns usually come in a paper envelope, you can store printer patterns in a cardboard folder or a plastic sleeve which keeps them from getting damaged. Some people hang patterns from clips or in a wardrobe.

Cost effectiveness

While the initial purchase of a digital sewing pattern might be similar to a paper pattern, the long-term cost savings are significant. Digital patterns can be reused countless times without the risk of tearing or damage. Additionally, many online platforms offer sales, discounts and bundles, making it easier to build a diverse collection of patterns without breaking the bank.

Even if you do print out digital sewing patterns rather than using a projector, copy paper is much stronger than the tissue paper most traditional pattern companies use so it withstands repeated use. It might cost a little extra to buy the pattern and add the cost of printing but you always have it to use again and again, whenever you like.

Inclusive sizing

While digital sewing patterns offer many benefits, not all designers include plus-size options. Most traditional patterns, for example, do not extend to plus sizes. Many digital pattern designers also focus on standard sizing, leaving a gap in the market for plus-size sewers. This lack of inclusivity can be frustrating, limit creativity and discourage individuals from pursuing sewing projects. The fashion industry has long been criticized for its lack of plus-size options, but digital sewing patterns are helping to bridge this gap.

The growing demand for plus-size patterns is prompting more designers, especially those offering digital patterns, to expand their size ranges, slowly addressing this disparity.

Many digital sewing pattern designers ensure their patterns cater to a broad spectrum of body types, including plus sizes. Some companies that previously had a limited plus size range are now extending their size charts with larger size options and their newer patterns are automatically including plus sizes. This inclusivity means that plus-size individuals can find patterns that fit their bodies without the need for extensive alterations. Some designers even specialize in plus-size patterns, providing stylish and flattering designs specifically for larger body types.

Despite the progress, it’s essential for the sewing community to advocate for broader inclusivity in digital sewing patterns.

Quick answers to questions

Designers offering digital sewing patterns online are easily contactable by email to ask question if you get stuck with a pattern and because they are independent (known as “indie”) small businesses, they are very responsive.

Most digital sewing patterns have easy to follow, step by step instructions with colour photographs rather than line drawings. Some digital pattern companies do not have full instructions and are better for more experienced sewists who will recognise where important steps are not included. Many designers include video instructions so you can see how the garment is made. Following along with a video, you are able to press pause while you complete a step before moving on. You might also find tips on how to make adjustments to get the best fit for your shape which is especially helpful when sewing plus size clothing.

Finding the Right Digital Sewing Patterns for Plus Sizes

A search symbol with a finger clicking on it

The first step to successful plus size sewing with digital patterns is finding the right patterns. Not all designers include plus size options, but many do, and their offerings are expanding. Here’s how to find patterns that will work for you:

Research and Reviews

Spend some time researching pattern designers who specialize in plus size patterns. Look for reviews and feedback from other plus size sewists to ensure the patterns are well-drafted and easy to follow. Before purchasing a pattern, read reviews from other sewers to get an idea of its quality and fit.

Websites like PatternReview.com and sewing communities on social media platforms can be valuable resources for finding recommendations and reviews. Pluslovely.com will also review plus size digital sewing patterns so you can find these right here.

Size Range

Check the size range of the patterns before purchasing because digital sewing patterns are often not returnable or refundable. Make sure you check the terms and conditions before you purchase. Ensure the designer’s size chart includes your measurements. Many designers now offer plus sizing but it’s always good to double-check because some digital sewing pattern designers will refund or exchange a digital sewing pattern. However, in some cases, it is possible to order a single size and some digital sewing pattern designers will add in one size on either side of the one you select so you can grade up or down if needed. Some designers offer digital patterns in size ranges (for example, 10-18, 20-28, 30-36. I recommend buying digital sewing patterns with the full size range if possible so you will always have all sizes making it more flexible if you need to grade more than one size.

Join Online Communities

There are numerous online sewing communities where you can seek advice, share your projects and get inspiration.

The online sewing community is a valuable resource for plus-size sewers. Many forums, blogs, and social media groups focus on plus-size sewing, offering tips, support, and pattern recommendations. These communities are a great place to share experiences, ask for advice, and celebrate successes, fostering a sense of inclusivity and empowerment.

Leverage the wealth of plus-size sewing resources available online, from blogs and tutorials to community groups and pattern reviews.

Practice Patience

Assembling and using digital patterns might take some practice. Don’t rush the process, and take your time to ensure accuracy.

Experiment

Digital patterns offer a unique opportunity to experiment with different styles and techniques. Don’t be afraid to try new things and push your creative boundaries.

Where to find digital sewing patterns

These designers offer a variety of patterns to suit different styles and preferences for plus-size individuals. I have not used all of them but I do browse them often and have some on my “want to buy one day” list.

The Future of Sewing with Digital Patterns

The rise of digital sewing patterns is just the beginning of a broader trend towards integrating technology with traditional crafts. As technology continues to advance, we can expect even more innovative tools and resources to emerge, making sewing more accessible and enjoyable for everyone, including plus-size individuals.

Integration with Augmented Reality

Woman wearing a white dress standing on a platform with an image of a cellphone in front of her showing her wearing different clothing

One exciting possibility is the integration of augmented reality (AR) with digital sewing patterns. Imagine being able to visualize a garment on your body before you even start cutting the fabric. AR could help you see how different patterns and fabrics will look on you, aiding in decision-making and reducing the risk of disappointment.

Enhanced Customization

Future digital sewing patterns may offer even more advanced customization options. With the rise of 3D body scanning technology, it’s conceivable that patterns could be tailored to your exact body shape and measurements, ensuring a perfect fit every time.

Eco-Friendly Innovations

As sustainability becomes a central focus in fashion, digital sewing patterns will likely continue to play a crucial role in reducing waste. We may see advancements in zero-waste pattern design, where every piece of fabric is used efficiently, minimizing scraps and offcuts.

Conclusion

Digital sewing patterns are revolutionizing the world of sewing, offering unparalleled convenience, customization, and sustainability. Whether you’re a seasoned sewist or just starting your sewing journey, digital patterns provide a flexible and cost-effective way to create beautiful, well-fitting garments. As technology continues to evolve, the possibilities for innovation in sewing promises an exciting future for crafters and fashion enthusiasts alike.

So, why not dive into the world of digital sewing patterns and see where your creativity takes you? With endless designs and customisation options at your fingertips, including a growing array of plus-size patterns, the only limit is your imagination.

I hope this has inspired you to have a look into digital sewing patterns. Happy sewing!

Sewing Pattern Companies

History

Helen Tatham

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28 July 2024

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You might be familiar with sewing pattern companies such as Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity, Burda, and McCalls. These companies have a long-standing legacy in the world of home sewing. Established in the 19th or early to mid-20th century, these companies have provided home sewers with accessible, high-quality patterns catering to a wide range of skill levels and styles. The evolution of the sewing machine and the popularity of home sewing have significantly impacted pattern design and production. Today, many independent pattern designers offer sewing patterns in both paper and digital formats.

Note: This article may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on a link and purchase something, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Sewing pattern company books on a table — Various sewing pattern company catalogues.

Exploring the history and evolution of traditional sewing pattern companies is always interesting. Here, I investigate some of the more well-known brands.

Butterick Sewing Patterns

Butterick, established in 1863 by Ebenezer Butterick, is notable for being the first sewing pattern company to create graded (multi-size) sewing patterns. Ebenezer’s wife was frustrated by the single-size tissue paper patterns available at the time, finding them ill-fitting. The multi-size innovation allowed home sewers to achieve a better fit without extensive pattern drafting skills, marking a significant advancement in the pattern-making industry.

Vogue Sewing Patterns

Vogue Pattern Service began in 1899 as a spinoff of Vogue Magazine’s weekly pattern feature. In 1909, Condé Nast, an American publisher and entrepreneur, bought Vogue and founded Condé Nast, a mass media company publishing titles such as Vanity Fair, Vogue, and The New Yorker. As a result, Vogue Pattern Company was formed in 1914, and in 1916, Vogue patterns were sold in department stores.

One particularly appealing aspect of Vogue patterns is their focus on high fashion. Vogue collaborates with top designers to offer patterns that bring runway styles to the home sewer. These patterns are typically more challenging and detailed, appealing to experienced sewers looking to replicate couture looks.

I haven’t made any Vogue garments myself (yet), but I definitely intend to try. I have some Vogue patterns by Sandra Betzina under the title “Today’s Fit.” A sewing friend introduced me to Sandra Betzina’s patterns. Some are quite hard to come by, but they are still available. Sandra Betzina, who retired in 2023 at age 80 but still sews, has her own website, Power Sewing, where you can buy her patterns and books and watch instructional videos.

Simplicity Sewing Patterns

Founded in 1927, Simplicity is renowned for its user-friendly patterns perfect for beginners. The sewing pattern company’s patterns often come with clear instructions and multiple variations, allowing sewers to create a variety of looks from a single pattern.

Simplicity skirt pattern. — My first sewing project was a skirt made using this pattern.

I started my sewing journey with Simplicity sewing patterns. My first was a straight skirt for work (pattern 8676 – not plus size). I later made a lined bolero jacket and a pair of pants with a Style pattern, which I believe was also under the Simplicity brand (pattern Style 1844 – not plus size). I was shocked to find this listed on a vintage sewing patterns website. It has a 1990 copyright! That is not vintage! Of course, I was younger and smaller then.

Burda Sewing Patterns

Founded in Germany in 1950, Burda revolutionized the sewing pattern industry by introducing patterns printed directly on the pages of its magazine, Burda Style. This approach made high-quality fashion patterns more accessible. Burda sewing patterns are known for European-inspired designs, often incorporating the latest trends from the fashion capitals of the world. The company’s patterns are praised for their precision and style, appealing to fashion-forward sewists seeking contemporary and sophisticated looks.

These days you can get Burda patterns in their envelopes, but you can still buy the Burda Style magazine with patterns. Personally, I find it frustrating using patterns from magazines because they tend to have multiple patterns printed on top of each other, each in a different color to tell them apart. If you want to make multiple different garments from one magazine/book, you need to trace each one or copy the pattern multiple times to cut out the ones you want. In my view, having so many different lines on a page can be confusing and easily lead to mistakes. However, my Burda magazine-loving sewing friend often creates gorgeous clothes using these patterns.

Mergers and Acquisitions

Various mergers and acquisitions have occurred among well-known sewing pattern companies over the years. McCalls, for example, another well-known brand established by Scottish tailor James McCall in 1870 in New York, acquired other pattern companies but continued to produce them under their unique brands. Patterns under the McCalls brand name and others not covered in-depth in this article, such as Know Me and New Look, appear to come under the Simplicity umbrella. It certainly seems that way from the Simplicity website. Kwik Sew is another brand founded in 1967, according to a vintage sewing patterns website.

It can be difficult to keep up with which brands are still produced and by whom. The latest I can see is CSS Industries, the company that owned the Big 4 sewing pattern brands (Simplicity, McCall’s, Vogue, and Butterick), announced in 2020 it was being acquired by Design Group, a UK-based company that paid approximately $88 million.

Are Traditional Patterns Still Popular?

Absolutely! Despite the rise of digital patterns and independent designers, traditional pattern companies remain popular. Their extensive archives and commitment to quality ensure they continue to be go-to resources for sewing enthusiasts around the world.

Do They Have Plus Size Patterns?

While some traditional brands offer “plus sizes,” I recommend always checking the sizing as you may find the brand’s idea of plus size doesn’t always match larger body shapes. Sometimes the sizing varies from pattern to pattern under the same brand. I wouldn’t want you to be disappointed buying a pattern from one of these traditional brands only to find it doesn’t fit.

Pattern company catalogues open on table — Various pattern company catalogues

I personally dislike purchasing traditional sewing patterns because they often do not have my size. While it is possible to re-size a traditional pattern, it is not necessarily as easy as simply increasing the pattern size. It can become an expensive mistake. Read my experience of buying a pattern in what was known as a plus size range to make a denim jacket.

Where Can You Buy Patterns from These Companies?

Traditionally, these are sold in envelopes containing the paper pattern pieces and instruction sheets. See what is inside a sewing pattern envelope. Traditional printed patterns are usually sold at fabric or sewing stores, and some are available through online retailers. Most pattern companies have their official websites and various other platforms where you can buy their patterns.

Differing Seam Allowances

One thing to be particularly cautious of when buying traditional patterns (or any pattern) is the seam allowance. Check if the pattern includes seam allowance. Most patterns do, but some have smaller or larger seam allowances than others. For some, you need to add a seam allowance.

Tissue Paper Patterns

Tissue paper is still used by some pattern companies. It is horrible to work with. It is very fragile and can tear easily. I often hear complaints from people who attend the same sewing class as me about tissue paper patterns. If you pin the pattern multiple times, the pinned areas wear out, meaning the pattern might move on the fabric. I use Sellotape to strengthen weak areas or fix tears in the paper, but the Sellotape can weaken with age and peel off the paper, sometimes taking pattern markings with it. Of course, it is possible to copy the tissue paper pattern, either by tracing it onto pattern fabric or by photocopying. It is also possible to scan tissue paper patterns, but most companies that do this do not guarantee that the fragile paper would not tear on its way through their scanner or copier.

How much do they cost?

Check back soon to see a price comparison.

Ten reasons why I sew my own plus size clothes

Helen Tatham

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28 April 2024

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Ten reasons why I sew my own plus size clothes

I’m creative – I love making things from scratch
I enjoy it as a tactile art
I get a sense of satisfaction with finishing a garment and being able to wear it
I can choose my own colours
Garments I sew myself are unique and more likely to fit properly
It is often cheaper to sew your own clothes than to buy off the rack – and they are better quality too
It is a social pursuit and it is fun
I love the sounds of sewing
I love looking at what people are wearing or clothing advertisements and trying to sew the same
I love when people ask me “where did you get that gorgeous dress”?

I’m creative – I love making things from scratch

Bank design models ready for clothing design sketches.

Image by Michael Burrows (stock photo).

Friends often tell me “you’re such a creative person”. I guess its true. Sewing is not my only creative pursuit.

I also enjoy knitting although I really don’t like wearing wool, I find it too scratchy. I like the challenge of knitting soft toys which usually have lots of small parts. In particular, I like to knit teddy bears. Blankets is another one of my knitting joys, both cot blankets/baby wraps and larger blankets or throws. There’s nothing better than wrapping yourself up in a woollen knitted blanket in winter.

My career has been as a journalist (although now I work in an administration role) so writing is one of my top skills. You can probably see that already with this blog. It’s so great to have a skill that can be both a profession and a hobby. While journalism has seen me focus on non-fiction, I’ve also had lots of short stories published and a little bit of poetry. I only dabble in poetry.

Cooking is creative. I enjoy adding herbs and spices to dishes. Even if I have a recipe to follow, I like to “joosh” it up with extras. I do the same with sewing occasionally.

Sewing gives me an opportunity to make craft items as well as clothing. I enjoy making bags, soft toys or practical home items like oven gloves or placemats.

Even colouring in is, of course, creative. I have lots of adult colouring books and I like to keep my coloured pencils sharp. I used to live in a city which had a “Paint the Earth” shop where customers could choose a ceramic item (like a cup or plate) to paint. The business then glazed and fired it and the customer returned in a week or so to pick up the finished item. I really enjoyed this but I’m certainly not an artist. My creations mainly featured words with representative colours. For example, a saying about fire with orange, red and yellow colours.

I enjoy it as a tactile art

I can’t walk into a fabric store and only look. I must touch the fabrics. Some are soft and floaty, others are heavy, fluffy, slippery, prickly, bumpy. Striped fabric might have ridges like corduroy or there are fabrics with “pile” like velvet. Some are see-through like lace.

It is interesting to watch other people looking at fabric. Sometimes, my sewing tutor cringes when I tell her what fabric I want to sew with and show her the pattern I’ve chosen. Why? Because she realises it’s not going to be an easy fabric to sew with.

I recently sewed some pillowcases for my niece and nephew. For my nephew’s ones, I used a quilting cotton which was easy to work with. However, I chose a silk satin for my niece’s pillowcases and it was a bit of a challenge. The fabric was slippery and almost impossible to hold in place while measuring, cutting and sewing. However, I loved it’s silky soft, flowy feel. I’m determined one day to make a silk satin blouse.

I get a sense of satisfaction from finishing a garment and being able to wear it

Image by RDNE Stock project (stock photo).

Sewing is not something you can do in a hurry. To get a good quality result, you need to take your time. You might have seen television programmes like “The Great British Sewing Bee” where participants have three hours to make a dress. I don’t know how they can achieve the challenges in the time set for them with the high level of quality in the final garments.

I definitely like to take my time. I suppose I’m a bit of a perfectionist.

My sewing friends would tell you I start getting excited when I near the end of a sewing project. I start saying things like “Yay, I’m on the last step” or “I’ve only got to hem it then it will be finished.

I can’t describe the sense of satisfaction that comes that first time wearing the garment, even if it is only in the sewing room to show the tutor and my sewing friends. Of course they are usually full of compliments.

Even better is wearing the garment “out” for the first time. For example, to work or out for coffee with friends. I find it hard to contain myself and not say “guess what, I made this” and do a twirl. When they notice me wearing something new and say “hey, I like that top”, that makes me feel really proud.

Is pride a negative emotion? I don’t think so. Nothing wrong with being proud of your efforts when you’ve put so much time and skill into making a garment.

I can choose my own colours

Have you ever had your colours done? A colour consultant will determine your personal colour palate based on skin tone, eye colour and hair colour. It’s helpful to know what colours suit you so you can pick out fabrics which are going to bring out the best in your appearance. You can sew an entire wardrobe to mix and match items in that colour palate and you will always look stunning because they suit you perfectly.

A friend of mind was recently picking fabrics to sew an outfit to wear to a wedding. She was picking out colours she liked but they didn’t necessarily look good against her skin. It wasn’t until she held up one colour in front of a mirror then swapped it for another colour that she could see the difference it made.

Even if something is considered a fashionable colour, that doesn’t mean it is going to suit you.

Garments I sew myself are unique and more likely to fit properly

Image by Michael Burrows (stock photo).

Shopping at clothing retailers means you get what they stock. There is little choice because many retailers, even if they stock different brands, have similar colours and styles because that is what is considered in fashion at the time.

Unless you shop at boutique fashion stores that are unique to the town they are in or only have one or two of each style of garment, it is hard to avoid wearing something the same as someone else.

Sewing your own clothes gives you far more choice of colours, prints and designs and allows you to make something uniquely yours.

A garment you have sewn yourself is also more likely to fit properly. Sewing means you can adjust so the garment fits snugly where you want it to or hangs loosely in the right places. The garment can be whatever you want it to be.

Even if a pattern suggests the garment is “finished” you can always add embellishments such as leather, zips, lace, ribbons ruffles or buttons to give it an edge.

Sewing your own clothes is often cheaper than buying off the rack

Like I said before, to get a garment that is unique, you need to pay a premium at boutique shops. If you make your own, it will not only be unique but certainly cost a lot less. It is also likely to be better quality than clothes you buy at mid-level retailers and undoubtedly better than low-end retailers where the cheapest garments are.

Do not get me wrong. I have no shame in buying clothes from mid-range or low-end retailers if that is what I am after (for example, gardening clothes or garments to wear lounging around at home) but it is more fun making my own clothes.

My perspective is it is cheaper because not only am I creating something to wear but I am having fun making it and I am learning new skills. Your hobby might be sport and you have fun playing your sport, but when you come away, you do not have anything tangible to show for the effort you have put into the game (except mud or sweat, perhaps a trophy which you will probably have to give to the winning team the following year).

It is worth spending money to make your own clothes because you can enjoy the process and there is a tangible result.

It is a social pursuit and it is fun

Image by Ron Lach

I joined a sewing class five years ago and I keep coming back because I enjoy and value the contact with other people who sew (not to mention I still have a lot to learn). There are seven people in the group but others come and go from time to time, especially if one of the regulars is away leaving a sewing table available for someone new.

People who sew come from all kinds of backgrounds and are involved in different types of work. My sewing group has an HR person who works for a vet company, a truck driver, an early childhood teacher, a swimming instructor, a psychologist, a manager at a social work service, a water engineer and myself, an administrator in a Government department

We often share what is happening in our personal and work lives as well as having lots of laughs. We share our sewing struggles and wins and encourage each other, help to find solutions or offer suggestions for improvements.

At Christmas, our last sewing session together for the year, we have a “secret Santa” where we exchange gifts we have bought or made for each other.

I love the sounds of sewing

The sound a sewing machine makes is probably something not a lot of sewists think about but there are all kinds of noises a machine makes which I find extremely pleasurable. It makes me realise I’m about to enter my happy place.

When I first turn on my machine, not only is there the click of the switch but it whirrs and beeps and, of course, the light comes on. Those noises tell my brain it’s time to sew.

These are some other sewing sounds which make me happy:

Smoothing out the paper pattern onto the fabric ready to cut it
Scissors opening and closing and slicing through the fabric
The thread spool spinning as it fills the bobbin
The full bobbin dropping into its slot
The needle going up and down

Different machines make different sounds and, of course, there are some sounds nobody likes to hear a sewing machine make. For example, when the needle breaks or when fabric gets pulled into the bobbin casing.

One of the best sounds is when several machines are working at the same time – the sound of productivity cannot be beaten.

I love looking at what people are wearing or clothing advertisements and trying to sew the same

Image from Essence South Canterbury March 2024

I keep an inspiration book with pictures of outfits I like cut out of advertising mailers, magazines or off the internet.

I like to hunt for similar fabric and a pattern which is a close match so I can make the garment myself. Taking comparison photos, trying to find a similar-looking location and posing the same way as the model in the photo is fun too. Usually, the models in the images are not plus size so it’s always really heartening to know us plus-size lovey ladies can wear the same things and look just as gorgeous.

I once found a picture of a pair of linen pants very similar to what I had just finished making. They were advertised at a high-end fashion shop (Ballantynes) for about $250. It had cost me about half that to make them but what it confirmed to me was that I had selected a type of fabric in a colour and style that was in fashion.

You can read about the first denim jacket I made. I found a very similar jacket also advertised at Ballantynes so even though I decided I don’t like the one I made, at least I knew it was on trend.

I love it when people ask me “where did you get that gorgeous dress”

It makes me feel lovely when people notice me wearing something new. It feels even better when I can say I made it myself.

This usually gets a positive response along the lines of “it looks great” and “aren’t you clever”.

The only problem with this is that some people’s eyes then light up and you can see they’re itching to ask if you could sew something for them. Of course, you can but do you really want to?

I try and encourage other people to learn to sew so they too can make their own clothes. Like any skill, it is possible to learn. It takes time but eventually they will be experiencing their own buzz when someone asks them “where did you buy that xxx”?

An ambitious project – double-breasted denim jacket

Helen Tatham

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26 April 2024

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An ambitious project – double-breasted denim jacket

This post may include affiliate links, meaning if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

I’ve always loved the idea of a denim jacket. I can’t remember ever owning one. I also can’t remember a time when they haven’t been a fashion item.

I spend a lot of time people watching and I noticed a few people wearing black denim jackets, including plus size people. I decided to have a go making one.

Resizing the pattern to fit

I bought fabric online from Backstreet Bargains and a Mimi G pattern. I knew Mimi G had some plus size designs. My sewing teacher (who is very wise) encouraged me to make a muslin first and I’m glad she did because it turned out the largest size in the pattern didn’t fit.

The tutor and I spent a lot of time resizing the pattern which was a great skill to learn. Of course it is easier if you can find a pattern that fits your measurements so you don’t have to make such adjustments.

Cutting errors

When it came time to cut the denim fabric, it turned out I had resized some of the muslin pieces incorrectly. This meant re-doing those pieces. There were more mistakes in that process. I had to buy more fabric.

My advice is measure twice (or more) and cut once. Find a willing sewing friend to carefully check your measurements on each piece before cutting.

Some of the fabric was blemished so I had to work the pattern pieces around the blemishes. There was not enough fabric left on the roll to do this so I bought more fabric.

Unpicking and resewing

When the pieces were finally cut, sewing the denim actually wasn’t that difficult. It is quite a stiff fabric so it goes through the machine easily. I used a denim needle which obviously made sewing easier than a standard needle.

However, I still discovered pieces that did not quite fit. Even after unpicking and trying a second time or third time, they wouldn’t quite fit and I’d find myself unpicking and sewing again. I cut the waistband piece twice before I made it fit.

Lining a denim jacket

Just to complicate things a little more, I decided to line the jacket with a silver French-themed satin. I think this is what makes the jacket stand out as something a bit different.

Eventually, after about two-and-a-half years, the jacket was finally finished. Everyone who sees it thinks its stunning. They can’t believe I made it.

Check the pattern is what you want before you buy it

Actually, I don’t wear it much because I don’t like it – it’s collarless and double breasted with a diagonal zip which is not really what I wanted. I wanted a traditional denim jacket with a collar.

What making this jacket taught me was to look carefully at patterns to make sure I like them before buying the pattern. If you have an image in mind of what you want the garment to look like when it’s finished, look carefully at the all the features of the garment on the pattern to ensure it matches that image. If not, it is possible to make changes but as a beginner, it is much easier just to follow the pattern.

I have to say, making a denim jacket was pretty ambitious but I achieved it. I learned so many new techniques. I am keen to make another but I’m looking for the right pattern that matches what I have in mind.

Here are a few examples:

You found me – what is Plus Lovely all about?

Inspiration

Helen Tatham

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26 April 2024

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You found me – what is Plus Lovely all about?

Sewing plus size clothing. Helen at her sewing machine.

Just me and my sewing machine.

I’m so glad you’ve found my blog. I’m really excited to start sharing my passion for sewing plus size clothing that fits, is stylish and comfortable and will make you feel just as lovely as you truly are. Not only that, but it’s unique, just like me … and you!

A change of clothes makes you feel fresh and sets you up for what’s next

My Mum once told me that when I was a kid, I often used to change my clothes several times a day. I still do. You can’t do the garden in your work clothes, you don’t want to put your smelly gardening clothes back on after you’ve had a shower, you don’t want to wear your lounging around clothes when you go out for a coffee or to see a movie with a friend and you get changed into a nightie or pjs at bedtime, right? Whatever you’re wearing, the most important thing is that you’re comfortable and feel good.

What do your clothes say about you?

Do you see clothes as purely functional or do you dress to make a statement? What kind of statement?

One thing I really enjoy is people watching and especially seeing how they dress including shoes and accessories. I never hesitate to tell someone if I really like what they are wearing. I love giving compliments and seeing the joy it brings the person. I’ll even approach strangers in the supermarket to say “I really that blouse!” Often that will be followed by “Do you mind if I touch the fabric?”

It’s a great conversation starter. People will start talking about where they got that particular article of clothing and even other things they are wearing or items in their wardrobe they pair them with. They say what it is they like about their clothes (and what they don’t like). A person’s personality really comes through when they talk about their personal sense of style.

What do my clothes say about me?

To be honest, right now, today (8 April 2024), I think my wardrobe is a bit drab but I definitely want to change that. That’s part of the reason I started this blog. I want to share my journey from a drab wardrobe to a fab wardrobe.

In fact, part of this blog is going to feature some of my more stylish friends (mainly lovely plus size friends of course). However, I have a fair idea about what looks good and what makes me feel good.

I hope my blog will inspire you in sewing plus size clothing.