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My Jude Jeans come out of the naughty corner

You may have read the story about the naughty corner. It’s a dark place at the bottom of my sewing room cupboard where UFOs (unfinished objects) go when they frustrate me. Today, I’m sharing the tale of one of my long-term naughty corner “inmates.”

My Jude Jeans from Closet Core Patterns have been sitting in the naughty corner for a while now, just waiting for a second chance.

A woman wearing a cream knitted top and black flare jeans.
The Jude Jeans from Closet Core Patterns.

I started these jeans with so much excitement. The Jude Jeans is a beautiful pattern and I loved seeing plus-size women wearing them on the Closet Core Patterns website.

The fit that didn’t fit

While we’re talking about sizes, Closet Core seems to have a pretty good range into plus sizes. I highly recommend them. Unfortunately, they don’t have an affiliate programme, so I’m not earning anything by singing their praises — this is just my honest opinion (as always).

A size measurement chart for women's jeans
Closet Core Patterns Jude Jeans measurements chart.

I was sewing a size 28. According to the pattern size chart, that should fit my 50” waist and 56” hips. Technically, the size 28 is drafted for a 50” waist and 58” hips, so they would need to be tweaked for fit.

The problem was, after almost finishing the jeans (pockets, zipper fly, waistband and all), I tried them on and realised they were just a bit too big. I would have expected the issue to be in the hips, given the measurement difference, but actually it was in the centre back and waist.

Facing the alteration anxiety

I was proud of the work I’d done and the thought of unpicking seams to fix the gape at the back made me anxious.

Woman with hands over her face
Facing unfinished projects can cause anxiety.

Yes, I’d known they were likely going to need some taking in before I even started. Maybe I should have graded the pattern beforehand but my usual practice is to finish the garment in the size the pattern indicates for me and then make alterations.  That way I’m not only learning how to put a garment together but also how to alter it to fit.

Wrestling a bear

Actually I really dislike making alterations.  Friends ask me if I’ll do alterations for them and I refuse.  I do my Mum’s ironing and sometimes repair little things for her and Dad but that is my limit.

With the Jude Jeans, that creeping “too hard” feeling took over. I knew the waistband needed to be altered but the thought of cutting it and putting a seam in it filled me with dread  The only alternative was undoing the entire waistband (and probably the fly and pockets) and doing it again.

Brown bear on hind legs looking at camera
Did someone say “wrestle”?

My sewing tutor suggested unpicking a few inches of the waistband and down the back seam an inch or so below a pin she’d placed as a marker.  Undoing all the top stitching as well as the seam stitching was difficult. Honestly, I felt like I was wrestling a bear!

Straight into the naughty corner

A younger classmate often says, “Everything you make always fits first time, while I always have to make alterations.” Of course, that’s not true. She clearly hasn’t seen my naughty corner!

She made the comment on the last of my eight weeks’ sewing lessons.  I packed up in despair and decided to try and finish the Jude Jeans at home.

Once I’d finished the unpicking, the seams looked awful. I’m not going to sugarcoat it — I felt really discouraged. I even groaned and shook my head a bit. Confusion and exasperation settled in. The naughty corner felt like the only option.

The back seam after I unpicked it.

The Jude Jeans have been in there for about a year now. However, I’ve decided this next term is going to be the one for finishing my UFOs. I’m determined the naughty corner will not get the better of me.

New enthusiasm

Pulling these jeans out again for this story made me realise they might not be as impossible as I thought.

Originally I thought the back seam was flat felled and the way take it in and redo the seam confuse med.

I decided to look for a YouTube video that might help me figure this out. It wasn’t that I didn’t trust my sewing tutor’s instructions. With her years of experience, I trust her completely. That said, at home, I’m on my own except for YouTube.

I found this video from Notches Sewing. I had some old jeans at home that no longer fit and were pretty worn out anyway, so I decided to practice the method on those before going back to my Jude Flare Jeans.  Then I discovered the seam was not flat felled after all.  I was possibly stressing over nothing.

Ready to try again

Finishing these jeans would feel like a real victory, not just over the fabric and stitching but over the naughty corner itself. It would be a big boost to my sewing mojo and a reminder that the projects I think are “too hard” sometimes just need a little more love and patience.

Part of sewing your own clothes, especially as a plus-size sewist, is accepting that things aren’t always perfect the first time. Patterns are a guide, not gospel. Bodies come in all shapes and sizes. Sometimes, it’s about perseverance and a little creativity with fitting.

Female hands guiding black denim through a sewing machine.
The Jude Jeans will be finished.

This term, I’m going to tackle my Jude Jeans head-on. I’ve been motivated by the challenge, the pride in what I’ve already sewn, and the desire to rescue what would otherwise be a waste of beautiful denim. Don’t worry, I wouldn’t throw it away, I would use it to make something crafty.  However, the jean deserve a second chance.

Join the challenge

No longer will my Jude Jeans languish in the naughty corner. Check back at Plus Lovely for part two of the Jude Jeans revival story.

What’s the hardest UFO currently in your naughty corner or too-hard basket? Leave me a comment and tell me all about it. I challenge you to have another go. Don’t give up. I guarantee you’ll feel great when you get it finished.

The naughty corner – do your UFOs need more discipline or do you?

Every sewist has one. Yours might be a basket, bag, drawer or plastic box. Some call it the too hard basket or UFOs (unfinished objects). Mine is affectionately known as the naughty corner. However, is it the projects that need discipline or me?

A real place for real projects

In my sewing room, the naughty corner is a very real place, not metaphorical at all. It is the cupboard which is literally in the corner of the room.

It is where projects go when I feel stuck on them or when something has gone wrong. Sometimes I can tell they are not going to fit quite right so I stop sewing and into the naughty corner they go.

A messy wardrobe with clothes piled up on the floor.
Thankfully, this is not my wardrobe.

Projects that have frustrated me or confused me go into the naughty corner. Sometimes I just run out of steam or more truthfully, run out of patience.

Sent down like a criminal to prison

This might make you laugh. In New Zealand’s High Court in Auckland, in the dock, there is a trap door with stairs leading down to the cells. Years ago, when someone was sentenced to imprisonment, they were literally “sent down” the stairs. I think the stairs and trap door are still there but no longer used.

Narrow wooden spiral staircase leading from a courtroom to prisoner cells beneath.
The staircase from the dock to prisoner cells beneath Auckland District Court courtroom one.

In a way, my naughty corner is a bit like that. The project gets “sent down” when it is not behaving. Most of the projects in my naughty corner are still in their special project bags, buried under a big bag of fabric scraps. They start at the top of the pile and somehow, often after I have been rummaging for craft supplies, they end up on the floor of the cupboard. There they lay, hidden beneath layers of good intentions, banished out of sight.

Letting it breathe

I let the project sit for a bit and give myself time to reset. Often it is several months before I pull a project out when I have a new plan or just a bit more determination.

Yellow wall clock showing the time as 9 o'clock.
If a project is not finished at the end of my sewing class, it often ends up in the naughty corner.

Another common trigger for sending things into the naughty corner is the end of term. I go to a weekly sewing class that runs in eight-week blocks. If something is still unfinished by 9pm at the end of week eight’s class, into the naughty corner it goes. Projects get abandoned in the naughty corner in favour of a fresh exciting project for the new term. The new term feels so full of promise. The old projects just slip away – from the top of my scraps and craft supplies pile to the naughty corner at the bottom of the cupboard. Down they go.

A strategic pause not a failure

I do not put things in the naughty corner because I have failed. Mostly it is because I need a break from the chaos. You will know what I mean if you have tried to power through a tricky project and it keeps getting worse. I remember one term, on the last class of the eight-week block, I was trying to finish a garment. There were just ten minutes of the class to go. I had already spent time refilling an empty bobbin, then the sewing machine needle broke. It felt like the machine was telling me, “that is enough for now” so into the naughty corner the project went.

Female sewist frustrated by her project.
If you get frustrated with your sewing, it might be time for a break.

If I am truly motivated to finish a project, I will. Not even broken needles, unpicking seams or resewing the same section for the fourth time will stop me. However, if frustration is taking over, there is no shame in putting a project aside. The naughty corner lets me breathe, reflect and regain my spark.

A space for second chances

Of course I would like everything to be perfect, finished on time, with no drama and no detours, with the finished project fitting as it should. Sewing does not work that way and neither do I.

I have come to realise the naughty corner is not a place of shame. It is a place for second chances. Yes, I might need a little help and that is the good thing about sewing, you do not have to do it alone.

A woman helping another woman with a sewing project.
There is always someone who can help when you are stuck with your sewing.

My naughty corner has a rule. There is a limit to the number of projects in the naughty corner. It does not fit more than three projects. If I put a project in the naughty corner, then one that has been in there for a while has to come out to be finished. No excuses. Otherwise, the pile can get overwhelming and nobody needs that kind of pressure from their hobby.

A quiet reclaiming

The next sewing class starts this week and I have pulled the three projects out of my naughty corner. I am re-reading the patterns, trying them on and figuring things out. This is the term of finishing things. A reset, a quiet reclaiming of the work I started and still believe in.

You cannot punish a sewing project. It is just fabric and thread. It does not have feelings so the naughty corner is not going to hurt it and it will not hurt you. There is no guilt about the naughty corner.

Give yourself permission to take a step back from projects that are not going well. When you have the energy, unpick those seams, replace the sewing machine needle, give it another go.

Restart concept, top view on woman legs and text written in chalk on gray sidewalk.
Be brave. Pull a UFO out of the naughty corner and have another go.

Finishing with fresh eyes

Do not think of it as failure but as part of the creative process. When the time is right, look at it with fresh eyes. Finish it. Wear it. Love it. Nothing beats the feeling of turning something that once felt impossible into something finished and fabulous.

What is in your naughty corner?

Do you have a naughty corner or maybe a too hard basket that is quietly gathering UFOs with potential? I would love to hear about it. Whether it is a zipper that went rogue, a top that turned out too tight or just something that lost its sparkle. You are not alone.

Leave a comment. No judgment, just real talk from one sewist to another. Let us swap stories and cheer each other on.

Farewell to the Big 4 sewing pattern brands

The sewing world had a bit of a shock recently. The beloved Big 4 sewing pattern companies— Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick, and Vogue — have been sold to a liquidator. For many of us who grew up flipping through giant filing cabinets at the fabric shop and tracing those delicate tissue pieces, it feels like the end of an era.

What happened to the sewing pattern companies?

These four sewing pattern companies have been staples in the home sewing world for over 100 years. IG design group owned the Big 4. On Friday 21 June, IG Design sold its American division — which includes the Big 4 sewing pattern companies to the liquidation firm Hilco Capital.

IG Design said several things contributed to the decision including tariffs. Many of their goods were made in China.

The sale price? Just $1 plus a share of any future profits from the brands if they are sold off later. There is no guarantee the patterns will continue to be produced.

Why some sewists are concerned

Many sewists and indie pattern designers are mourning the news and not just because of nostalgia. The Big 4 don’t just sell patterns, they own the last large-scale tissue pattern printers in the US. If those machines go quiet, it could affect all paper pattern makers. Even some small independent (indie) brands rely on them.

A digital silver lining

But it’s not all doom and gloom. The truth is, the world of sewing patterns has already been changing.  Indie pattern companies have been on the rise for years, especially in the digital space. Some sites list nearly 1,000 indie brands! Plus Lovely has a small list of its favourites.

Many of these smaller companies have embraced PDF downloads, offering modern styles, inclusive sizing and instant access. There is no denying how convenient digital patterns are, even if you have to pay extra to have them printed. They last longer than the tissue paper versions used by most of the Big 4.  Some companies even offer projector files, doing away with the need for paper altogether.

For new sewists, these indie brands often offer excellent tutorials, community support and modern fit guidance. In many ways, they’ve picked up where the Big 4 left off — filling the gaps for today’s makers.

What does this mean for us?

Some of the Big 4 sewing pattern companies had been slowly expanding their plus-size ranges in recent years.  The sale of those companies means plus-size sewists may have fewer printed options available in local fabric stores.

The sale of the legacy companies is a moment to pause and reflect on how sewing is evolving. Plus Lovely has always been an advocate for indie design companies, especially those offering digital patterns.

It may also be a chance for smaller companies and digital designers to step up with new ideas. Sewists have weathered changes before and will again.

Talk to me

Feeling unsure about switching to digital patterns or exploring new designers? Don’t worry.  Leave a comment in the post and we can talk you through it. Let’s keep sewing, sharing and supporting the creators who keep this craft alive.

Have thoughts on this change? A favourite Big 4 memory? Drop it in the comments — I’d love to hear from you.

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From doll dresses to designer: Jenna’s Sewing Career

Some people fall into sewing by chance.  Many inherit it through generations. For Jenna, sewing was stitched into her childhood by her mum. At just four years old, Jenna was sewing Barbie doll clothes. By seven, she was turning the crank on a hand-wound Singer machine, piecing together her own clothing.

“I remember sewing a skirt, a little red wrap thing.”

Early lessons and exploding overlockers

Like many in the 1980s, Jenna learned more about sewing at intermediate school and high school.  She got her first “real” sewing machine, an Elnita (like the Elna machines of today). Later, her dad bought her a Babylock overlocker at an auction.

“This was an old metal one. Heavy as anything. Very, very basic. Only three thread and every now and then it would explode. You’d be overlocking along, it didn’t matter if you were going slow or fast, you couldn’t avoid it.  Every now and then it would just go bang and throw out all this really stinky smoke and give you a hell of a fright. Once you stopped shaking and it cooled down for a while, you could carry on,” Jenna laughs.

Jenna wearing her graduation gown.
Jenna on her graduation day.

A formal path into fashion

It was inevitable Jenna would follow the thread to Otago Polytech in the mid-90s, achieving a diploma in fashion design.  She graduated top of her class, then started her sewing career teaching at a Salvation Army training centre.

Pickle, pillows and Lavender Blue

Not long after and on a whim, Jenna packed up her sewing supplies and headed to Palmerston North where she ran her mum’s high-end linen shop. That eventually evolved into her own children’s clothing label, “Pickle” (her niece’s nickname). She bought an embroidery machine and embroidered the brand onto every piece. The business bloomed until big brand children’s clothing manufacturers swooped in and pushed her out of the market.

Jenna's niece nicknamed Pickle wearing Pickle branded clothing
Jenna’s niece (nicknamed Pickle) wearing clothing from the Pickle brand.

Instead, in partnership with her Mum, Jenna focused on household linens – hand towels, bath towels, face cloths, sheets and pillowcases (with a little lavender sachet inside).  Having realised what the embroidery machine could do, Jenna designed a sprig of lavender which she added to all the linens with the words “Lavender Blue”.  Eventually the number of machines multiplied to four running full-time and the business sold the products throughout New Zealand.

Earthquakes and setbacks

After nine-and-a-half intense years (instead of the six months she originally promised to work with her mother), Jenna moved to Christchurch. There, she met her partner and, moving into his home, set up her sewing business in a spare room.  She juggled Roman blinds, dressmaking and uniform production before the Christchurch earthquakes brought everything to an abrupt halt.

Jenna and Dale's broken house after the Christchurch earthquake.
A collapsed wall made Jenna and her husband’s house unlivable.

It was too dangerous to stay in the broken house. There was no room to sew in the tiny motel unit she and her partner lived in while waiting for a builder to become available to fix the house.

The building work did not start until almost a year after the earthquakes and took eight months.  Realising the motel unit was not satisfactory, the couple moved into a furnished flat. Jenna set up a workroom at a friend’s house but the sewing did not pick up to the level it was previously. 

Jenna and her husband on their wedding day strolling down the road in the Nevada desert just outside Las Vegas.
Jenna and her husband on their wedding day.

A world trip, a wedding and a new start

Jenna and her partner decided to take a break and spent seven weeks travelling the world.  They got married in Las Vegas and returned to Christchurch happy.  The uniform company Jenna had worked for was desperate for her help so she worked in-house for a while. However, the city was still broken and many of its residents were still sad.

“It was still a very negative feeling,” Jenna says.  “We were kind of sick of being around sad and angry people.”

Finding a home

The turning point came when Jenna and her husband found an old general store for sale in the tiny town of Winchester on SH1 in South Canterbury.  Jenna turned the shop front into her studio.

The old Winchester Store.
The old Winchester Store which is now home to Jenna Sews.

“It is really neat being out there in the shop and thinking about the women who wore those beautiful corset dresses and people tying up their horses outside.  Actually, the hitching posts are still there,” Jenna says.

Bearsies, ball gowns and back to teaching

The business, Jenna Sews, was born.  Wedding dresses, ball gowns and alterations, Jenna sews them all and more.  She made “Bearsies” from recycled denim and sold them at markets. The Swanndri company spotted Jenna’s work and contracted her to make teddy bears from its iconic checked wool fabric. She made almost 1000 of them, up to 175 at a time.  They took over Jenna’s life.  After several rises in the minimum wage, materials cost and shipping rates, the Swanndri bears stopped being viable to produce.

Teddy bears made from recycled denim at a market stall.
Jenna’s recycled denim “Bearsies” at a market stall.
Two teddy bears - one red, one grey - made from Swanndri wool fabric.
Teddy bears made from the iconic Swanndri fabric.

Recently, Jenna has gone full circle and teaching has become part of her weekly rhythm again.

For someone who has been sewing since she was four (just over 50 years!) the needle is far from stopping.

Talk to me

Jenna’s journey is proof that sewing can carry us through every stage of life. Tell me how long you have been sewing and your biggest sewing achievement in the comments.

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Sewing in real sizes – Jenna’s views on plus size fashion

The jacket which swishes and stays on my mind

Sewing in real sizes – Jenna’s views on plus-size fashion

When it comes to plus-size fashion, Jenna gets it. She’s lived it, stitched it and like many of us, has stood in front of the mirror in a clothing store asking: “Is this really the best they can do?”

The emotional cost of clothing

Even as a skilled dressmaker and the owner of Jenna Sews (a sewing and alterations business in Winchester, New Zealand), Jenna isn’t immune to the emotional toll of plus-size fashion.

“I’ve got very low self-esteem because of my size,” she says. “I always have had and I probably always will.”

Shopping for clothes is often frustrating. The choices are limited, the quality inconsistent and it’s rare to find clothes that make her feel good.

“As a designer, I’m unrestricted in what I can sew,” she says. “But how I look in it? That’s another matter.”

She remembers her school ball not for the glamour but for the disappointment. Unable to find a flattering pattern, she settled on something that felt more “mother of the bride” than magical.

“I didn’t feel pretty,” she says. “But at least I had something to wear.”

Reshaping the standard style

“I haven’t bought clothes for something like five years,” she says. “I would normally go to K&K (a New Zealand size 10–26 chain store) but I don’t like wearing the same thing as everybody else.”

As a trained fashion designer, Jenna knows how to make garments that fit and flatter. Yet despite her couture-level skills, she rarely designs or makes clothes for herself.

“I might do a sketch, draft the pattern, make it sometimes but I tend not to design for myself,” she says. “I have a look in my mind and I don’t fit the look.”

It’s a quiet confession many plus-size women will understand but Jenna’s thinking is beginning to shift. Recently, she’s been reimagining what’s possible.

“I’ve got all these ideas in my head at the moment,” she says, her eyes lighting up.

A holiday mindset shift and a boutique revelation

A recent cruise with her mum proved to be a turning point. After the trip, they stopped in at Zebrano, a high-end boutique known for stylish plus-size clothing. Jenna’s mum offered to treat her to something special.

She picked out a few pieces — including a showstopping $680 dress.

“It’s so gorgeous,” she says. “I haven’t even worn it yet. I can’t wear it without the right shoes!”

Jenna holding up her new dress which is black with contrast fabrics
The $680 dress

There was also a simple black stretch top with dropped shoulders and a pouch pocket for $270 and a striped shirt with a sewn-in vest, feature collar and buckled ties. Jenna didn’t share the price for that one, maybe it was a bit too eye-watering. An oversized Japanese-designed sweatshirt with unique dye techniques also caught her eye priced at $350.

Shopping at Zebrano gave Jenna the opportunity to see, touch and try on garments that fit and made her feel confident, stylish and seen.  It was a moment of reflection, not just about the cost of quality plus-size fashion but about the value.

Maybe, just maybe, it made her think it’s worth making beautiful things for herself again and maybe designing for others.

Analysing the value of style

Sometimes plus-size garments are more expensive and not just because they use more fabric.  Often it’s because the options are so limited.

“Shops charge more because you’re plus size, because you’re restricted and have to buy whatever you can get,” Jenna says.

“I’m just coming to terms with the fact that if I want a designer look, I have to pay for it,” she reflects. “This time, it’s not because it’s plus size, it’s because it’s designer. If a skinny girl wants to look like that, she has to pay too. If you want to look edgy, you either pay for edgy or you learn to make it yourself.”

It’s a tricky space, wanting clothes that fit your body and reflect your personality but not always having the time, energy or money to buy them or even to make them.

Jenna understands that better than most. She’s spent decades reshaping other people’s garments and reshaping ideas about what fit and fashion can be.

Possibility, patterns and progress

Still, Jenna remains hopeful and passionate about plus-size style.

“There are some beautiful things out there now if you’ve got the money,” she says. “It’s getting better. But there’s still so much room to grow.”

For those of us who sew, there’s even more reason to be optimistic.

“For plus size, I’m thrilled about the variety of patterns you can get these days,” she says. “But there’s still a long way to go.”

Clients continue to come to her for alterations, custom fits and sometimes personalised designs. The demand is there. 

A new season begins

“Designing is something I can do and something I’ll always be able to do,” she says. “And when I get to do something design-y, then I get really excited. I can start with a piece of paper and a pencil and a set of measurements and end up with something edgy and stunning.”

Now, as she begins to dabble again in design “as a hobby,” with plus-size bodies in mind, perhaps Jenna is coming into a new season in her career. After all, designing a plus-size collection was her original vision when she studied fashion design more than 30 years ago

“If I like something, I’ll design it, put it out there and see what happens.”

Yes, Jenna. We see what’s happening — and we’re here for it.

Jenna is Creative Genius at Jenna Sews, 153 Temuka-Orari Highway, Winchester.

The jacket which swishes and stays on my mind

You know that feeling when a garment just gets you? Not because it’s flashy or on trend but because it moves right, feels right, fits right and looks great on you.  That’s exactly how I felt the first time I wore Jenna’s jacket.

A chance discovery

I “found” the women’s plus size jacket during a sewing class at Timaru Sewing Centre.  It was lying on a pile of scrap fabric.

“Oooo, I wonder who this belongs to,” I said picking it up and looking at how well it was sewn.

“I love it.” I held it up and looked in the mirror with it against my body.

“I want it,” I said.  My fellow sewing students rolled their eyes.

Lost and found and lost

A number of times I thought I’d lost a favourite jacket by leaving it on the back of a chair in a meeting room or conference centre, at an event or even in the library.  I felt so lucky because I’d go back and it was still there but one time, it had gone.  While it is annoying to lose a favourite jacket, I hope whoever is wearing it now likes it as much as I did.

Doing the right thing

I’m an honest person so I couldn’t just take this jacket.  Not when I knew the owner could probably be found.

I took it to the owner of the Timaru Sewing Centre and she knew immediately who it belonged to.  It was Jenna’s – one of the tutors of another sewing class.

I handed it over but the garment stayed on my mind.

Women's plus size jacket sewing pattern showcase.

Trying it on with permission

The next day, after a quick phone call, I had Jenna’s permission to try on the jacket.  I practically ran to the sewing centre during my lunch break for the opportunity to see this beautiful jacket again.

The sewing centre manager snapped a few photos of me in the jacket.  I wore a simple black dress I’d made and somehow the whole outfit just worked.

“It looks great on you. Did you plan to wear that dress?” the sewing centre owner asked. Nope. Total fluke. I’d only phoned on a whim, wondering if Jenna’s jacket might still be around.

Oh, it felt so good with it on my back, a perfect fit.

I decided I needed to meet Jenna and talk to her about her the women’s plus size jacket sewing pattern she’d used to make it.

Advanced but doable with encouragement

“It’s a great jacket, isn’t it?” Jenna beamed.

It absolutely is.

Turns out, this dreamy garment wasn’t just made for admiration. Jenna had originally brought it in the jacket for one of her students.

“She wanted something with a bit of swing, maybe a high-low hem,” Jenna explained. “And I thought, well—you can do that with anything. Your sleeve length, hem—those are easy changes.  This women’s jacket sewing pattern had all the characteristics she was looking for.”

It does swish beautifully. The student loved it but worried it might be too challenging.

“It is an advanced pattern,” Jenna said. “An advanced Vogue pattern.” (Vogue 1494).

She looked at me and smiled. “But you could totally do it.”

That moment stayed with me. Not just because the jacket was gorgeous (and it was) but because of what it represented – a level-up moment in sewing. It was that gentle nudge toward something more ambitious – maybe even a little glamorous.

From stash to sparkle

“I just fell in love with the fabric,” Jenna told me. “I bought three metres (it was 150cm wide) and I had it sitting in my stash for ages and I didn’t know what to do with it.”

Of course I had to ask where it was from.

“The fabric store,” she said. “It’s 100 per cent linen but it’s foil-printed—that’s where the metallic sheen comes from.”

The owner of the sewing centre and I had both wondered what it was. We had guesses about silk and blends but it turns out it was pure linen, glammed up with a foil overlay. Now I know, it makes sense. It’s one of those fabrics that quietly commands attention.

Helen wearing Jenna's linen with foil overlay jacket.

The big bang

Jenna didn’t know what she was going to make with the fabric when she bought it, maybe pants. At some point, as these things happen, the fabric and the pattern collided in a little burst of creative clarity.

“I love Vogue patterns and when Spotlight has a sale, well… I go a bit nuts buying them,” she laughed. “Other times the fabric leads the way. But this jacket—it was like a big bang in the middle. One day I just knew—this fabric was meant to become that jacket.”

Jenna made the jacket not long after moving to her current home in Winchester, South Canterbury, New Zealand.  It was around 2015 or 2016. The fabric had travelled with her from Christchurch, quietly waiting for its moment and it didn’t disappoint.

A jacket with just the right drama

“I wear it in spring and autumn—it’s not warm enough for winter, and you don’t want to wear a jacket like that for summer,” Jenna explained. 

I personally think it would make a great special occasion jacket or as Jenna says, it is for every day. It’s one you can wear when you want to feel a little bit special. Isn’t that the dream – everyday pieces that make you feel like the an A-list celebrity.

Collar detail on Jenna's jacket - lots of topstitching.

What Jenna loved most about making it was the topstitching—especially across the dramatic collar. “I love garments with topstitching,” she said. “And that collar has lots of top stitching.  It’s just gorgeous.”

Interestingly, the pattern shows the collar standing up but it also sits flat beautifully.

This is one of the few garments Jenna has made for herself that turned out better than she ever expected and it shows. The cut, the shimmer, the swing. It’s got presence, it’s got personality and it made me feel fabulous just trying it on.  That’s how clothing should be.

Inspiration that sticks

Later, Jenna showed me the pattern (Vogue 1494).

“This is my spare pattern,” she said, holding it like a treasure. “I bought it twice because I knew it was going to be popular.”

The pattern is now out of print so Jenna is glad she bought two.

“This one’s uncut.  I’m not cutting it until the other one is absolutely dead.”

When she does open the pattern envelope, Jenna intends to copy it onto something more permanent. I get it. Some patterns are worth preserving.

Voguesewing pattern V1494 Two women wearing a jacket sewn from the pattern - one is sleeveless and red, the other is grey and has sleeves.
Vogue sewing pattern V1494.

The women’s jacket sewing pattern is designed to be made with lamb leather but it works beautifully in other fabrics too. It swishes like a dream.

I think what I love most is how much care and attention Jenna puts into her pieces, not just in making them but in teaching others how to make them too.

“If you want to make your wedding dress or something horribly complicated … nothing is too challenging,” Jenna told me.

Walking away inspired

I walked away from that conversation with Jenna thinking two things:

  1. I really want to make that jacket; and
  2. I’m not going to sell myself short next time a “challenging” pattern comes my way.

When something makes you feel that good – swishy and all – it’s worth the extra effort.

Jenna is Creative Genius at Jenna Sews, 153 Temuka-Orari Highway, Winchester.

The de-stash challenge – part two

If you read part one of the de-stash challenge, you’ll know I’d just committed to bravely using fabric a perfect strange sent to me then enter the resulting garment into a competition with a $50 prize. Easy, right? Wrong!

Let’s pick up where we left off—needle poised, fabric flying, and a deadline looming…

From plaid to plan – deciding what to sew

The first step, and probably the hardest challenge, was deciding what to make with that multi-coloured plaid fabric that reminded me of a dress I wore in the 1980s. Being plus-size, there was definitely not enough to make anything that would fit me. I thought about sewing a child’s outfit, but I don’t know anyone with small children who could model a garment for the competition photos.

I wanted to do something a bit different and edgy. Something that would make a real impact.

A dream project?

It was my mother who came up with an idea that grabbed me and wouldn’t let go—men’s boxer shorts!

A few days after I received the fabric, Mum told me she’d had a recurring dream about boxer shorts. Perhaps it was a good thing she couldn’t remember the details (or at least she wouldn’t share them), only that there were boxer shorts in her dream—and they were made from the same fabric I’d been sent.

I started looking at boxer shorts patterns and realised they were totally doable. There was enough fabric, and I was confident I could make them in time for the challenge deadline.

Finding the right pattern (and a pun too good to pass up)

I didn’t have to look online for long before I found a boxer shorts pattern on 5outof4.com. It looked like a reasonably straightforward project, with only three pattern pieces. I had plenty of fabric to accommodate it. I did still consider making a child’s garment with the leftover piece but I didn’t want to risk running out of time or fabric and not being able to finish either. Boxer shorts felt like the right choice—fun, different, and yes, a bit edgy. Excuse the pun but boxer shorts fit the brief.

The boxer shorts pattern I chose for my de-stash project.

The pattern featured flat-felled seams—something I hadn’t done before so it was good to have a new challenge. I couldn’t wait to get started. There was just one thing holding me back…

Male model required

I needed a model for the finished garment and before I could start sewing, I needed to know what size the model would be. It would be no good making a size small only to find my model was a large!

I put the call out to friends and family to see if anyone knew someone willing to model boxer shorts.

Eventually, I had three possible options:

  • A good friend offered up her son, a local police officer.
  • A workmate volunteered her son.
  • Another former colleague offered her husband—and even sneakily sent a shirtless photo to prove what a good model he’d make. Talk about a selling point!

The younger men were a bit too embarrassed to participate so my friend’s husband ended up being roped in as the underwear model.

Plaid precision and preparing to sew

Before I received his measurements, I prepared the fabric. I had no idea if it had been pre-washed. It felt quite soft and thin, so I assumed it had but just to be sure, I washed it again to avoid shrinkage.

I always overlock the raw cut edges so they don’t fray in the wash. The piece was already small enough without losing more fabric to fraying.

Once dry, I ironed the fabric and matched the selvedges widthways as the pattern instructed. I used pins and clips to match the plaid lines both widthways and lengthways.

My friend sent me her husband’s measurements which matched a size medium on the pattern. I laid out the pieces and pinned them carefully.

The shorts have a centre back panel like a gusset to make room for the butt. Because it’s slightly tapered, it wasn’t possible to match the plaid lines where the panel joins the back on both sides. However, matching the front lines was more important, so I checked with the owner of my local fabric shop before cutting. She said I’d done a good job, and she helped me position the fly pieces to make sure the lines would align well.

With all my pieces cut, I was excited to start sewing!

Flat felled confusion

The pattern was easy to follow but the flat-felled seams confused me at first. It felt counterintuitive to put wrong sides together. Even though I’d marked each piece with “RS” for right side, it still tripped me up, especially because both sides of the fabric looked the same! My sewing friends probably had a giggle watching me flip the pieces every which way trying to figure it out.

“Fly”-ing solo

I tackled the fly at home. I’d installed a fly in a pair of jeans before (still unfinished due to sizing issues), so I knew the basics. Actually, this fly was simpler, since it didn’t involve a zip.

Buttonhole woes, warning and one last chance

A small button and buttonhole were optional on the fly. I debated whether to include them knowing automatic buttonholes on sewing machines can be temperamental.

Back at my sewing class, I bought a small clear button and tested the buttonhole foot using a piece of scrap. My first attempt was perfect—phew!

However, just as I feared, my second practice attempt was a disaster. Still, I decided to go for it on the real garment thinking surely the machine wouldn’t mess up again.

It did.

It jammed at the top and stitched back and forth in a frenzy instead of finishing neatly.

I carefully unpicked the mess. My sewing tutor cheerfully warned me I’d only have one more shot—the fabric couldn’t take much more.

I asked the sewing centre manager for advice. She was surprised the pattern only called for a small piece of interfacing behind the buttonhole. She recommended interfacing the entire fly section—but I didn’t have time to unpick the whole thing to do that.

Instead, I used a piece of tearaway stabiliser behind the fly. Nervously, I pinned it in place, reset the buttonhole foot and pressed start.

Success! A perfect buttonhole.

Hems, seams and getting it right

Back at home the next weekend, I sewed the inseam. The instructions said to flat-fell it but it just didn’t look right. I unpicked, tried again and still wasn’t happy so I overlocked both edges, sewed a standard seam and topstitched each side flat.

The final step was hemming the legs. Thanks to the plaid, it was easy to fold a quarter inch up, then another quarter inch and stitch neatly in place.

Wrapped with care and a side of chocolate biscuits

I popped the finished boxer shorts into an overnight courier bag—along with some chocolate Tim Tam biscuits for my friend—and sent them off.

A couple of days later, I got a message: “They went straight on!” She promised to send better pics soon and thanked me for the treats.

“Did you get the joke with the Tim Tams?” I asked.

“No,” she said. “What was that about?”

I explained I was referencing that old Dan Carter ad…

Except I wasn’t. After a quick Google, I realised I’d confused my rugby players and my biscuits. The ad I was thinking of featured Carlos Spencer in his boxer shorts—and it was for Toffee Pops, not Tim Tams!

Do you remember that one?  Leave a comment if you do.

The big reveal

The next evening, I received the photos. My friend’s husband was rocking the boxer shorts and they were a perfect fit. There’s not much more I can say.  I’ll just let the photos speak for themselves.

Man wearing green plaid boxer shorts
My friend’s husband is chuffed with the boxer shorts I made for him.

Facebook fame and a few laughs

I couldn’t wait to share the photos and story to the Sewing At Home NZ Facebook page, complete with the tale of the plaid fabric, boxer shorts, and my biscuit blunder.

The post got a great response—40 reactions and loads of comments and laughs. One commenter wrote:

“Is that XXX modelling?”

Me: Haha there had to be one!

Commenter: Oh funny. I nearly spat my tea out when I opened Facebook this morning. I used to work with XXX!

Me: I worked with his wife.

Commenter: Small world!

My fabric’s new life

The young woman who received the fabric I had sent made a groovy pair of wide-leg trousers—with pleats, an elastic waistband, a tie at the front and pockets! She usually sews children’s clothing, so this was a real stretch for her.

I was thrilled. The trousers looked amazing—and they fit her beautifully.

Time to vote

Each participant in the de-stash challenge had a photo of their finished garment posted to a poll on the Sewing At Home NZ Facebook group. Members could vote for their favourite.

I voted for someone else’s entry—a bright blue kimono robe with a feather boa around the neckline and down the front. It’s the kind of fabulous garment I’d love to make for myself one day.

And the winner is …

The poll is open until 31 May. Come back for an update on 1 June.

From stash to style – the “De-Stash” Challenge – part one

As sewists, we know fabric can accumulate quickly. What was once a carefully curated selection of materials for future projects often turns into a mountain of forgotten fabric that no longer inspires.  Recently I came across the Facebook group Sewing at Home NZ.  Soon after I joined, the admins posted a “de-stash” challenge and not only had I found a way to get involved with other sewists but a quick and easy way to say goodbye to at least one piece of fabric from my stash.

Step up to the challenge

The premise was simple: participants were to pass on fabric from their stashes to the next in line in the group.  Person one passes to person two and so on until the last participant passes fabric on to person one – like a chain.  The fabric pieces had to have been sitting around for at least two years.  The challenge was to create something with the fabric you received.  The result is then posted on the Facebook page for judging by participants like a “people’s choice”.

The prize

The competition prize was a $50 prezzie card.  In New Zealand, a prezzie card is a gift card that can be purchased and pre-loaded with a chosen amount and works like a credit card – you can spend it anywhere, not just a specific store like a gift card.

Although my main reason for participating in the challenge was for the fun and experience, I can’t deny there was a little competitive streak in me.  An extra $50 spending money is a nice incentive to create something that stands out.  However, at the end of the day, the real reward is knowing I took on a creative challenge and made something worthwhile.

The fabric I de-stashed.

My de-stash

I immediately knew what fabric I would be passing on from my stash.  It had been in my stash at least two years so it met the challenge criteria.  It was 2.1m of beige denim-like stretch fabric with a maroon paisley print.  I liked it when I bought it but over time it has earned the name “ugly fabric” and I cannot think what I would do with it.

Fabric sent

I contacted the person to whom I was to pass on my “ugly fabric” and apologised in advance for what I was about to send them.  Thankfully their response was a laugh.  I didn’t describe it to them.  I thought they might like the surprise.  At least there was a good length of it so they would have plenty of scope to make something the fabric deserved.

The person passing fabric to me asked me what I would like – stretch knit, woven, patterned or plain.  I thought they must have a huge stash to have enough fabric sitting around for two years or more to allow choices like that.  It was a good opportunity to be picky but I thought that would be cheating.  I said I would be happy with whatever they sent me.

Fabric received

A few days later, a small parcel arrived in my mailbox.  I was about to head out to go shopping when it arrived. I didn’t want to go inside to get a pair of scissors to open it at that time so it sat on the passenger seat of my car tempting me for a couple of hours.

I called in to my parents’ house on my way home and borrowed my mum’s scissors.  I couldn’t wait any longer.  Mum was excited as I was to open the parcel and see what fabric delight was inside.

I wasn’t sure what to expect.  Had I received something I loved or would I end up with another piece of “ugly”, uninspiring fabric?  I was nervous.  I put the scissors into the courier bag opening and … chop … it was time to see what I had been sent.

The 80s called, you forgot your dress

Out popped about 82” x 34” of multi-coloured plaid fabric with shades of green, blue, pink, mustard yellow and white. I was immediately transported back to the 1980s.  It reminded me of a tiered dress I wore in my teens.  Mum laughed.  “That’s interesting.” Was all she said.

The fabric I was sent.

It wasn’t what I would choose for myself these days (even if tiered dresses and plaid/gingham fabrics are back in style) but there was something fun about it.

It’s everywhere

You know how you have something on your mind, then suddenly all you can see relates to that thing?  Well, that happened with the plaid fabric.

I went shopping at Ballantynes (a high-end department store) in Christchurch, New Zealand.  After browsing for a while, I found a plaid bedspread.  The colours were brighter than the fabric I received and pink was the predominant colour rather than green but it made me think plaid perhaps wasn’t so bad.

A plaid duvet cover for sale at high-end department store Ballantynes in Christchurch.

Later, I checked my Facebook feed and saw a video of a woman promoting a New Zealand fabric store.  She wore a plaid dress very similar to the one I wore in the 1980s and with similar colours to the fabric I had been sent.

Facebook girl wearing plaid dress.

Not long after I decided to browse in the fabric store and found yet more plaid.

Fabric for sale at The Fabric Store at the Tannery in Christchurch.

Maybe the fabric I received was not as unfashionable as I thought.  It is said fashion goes in cycles.

Creativity in unfamiliar territory

Sewing something using fabric you didn’t choose yourself can be a bit intimidating.  After a few days and with the start of the competition approaching, I couldn’t think of what to sew with the fabric I had received.  Competition participants had from 1 May to 24 May to create their entry.  As a sewist, I usually prefer fabrics that fit my personal style and the items I want to create for myself but with this challenge, I knew I had to step outside my comfort zone.

To be continued

Come back soon for part two.

Strutting My Stitches on the Timaru Sewing Centre catwalk

When you think of fashion parades, your mind might go to Paris or New York—but for one memorable day, my hometown, Timaru, New Zealand, became the style capital of the country’s South Island. The Timaru Sewing Centre celebrated its 20th anniversary under the current owner with a fabulous community fashion parade, and I was lucky enough to take part.

The Event

The celebration marked 20 years since the current owner took over the Timaru Sewing Centre, though the store itself has been part of the community much longer. To mark the milestone, customers who had created garments using fabric or yarn purchased from the store were invited to participate in a special fashion parade. The audience could vote for their favourite—one fabric-based and one yarn-based creation.

Why I Took Part

The prize for first place for sewn garments was a brand new sewing machine—tempting even for me.  I already own two machines and an overlocker (all bought from the Timaru Sewing Centre, of course).  The prize for knitted or crochet garment was a gorgeous basket of goodies curated from the store’s suppliers.

I do enjoy a bit of healthy competition but my real reasons for joining in were simple: to support the local sewing community and have a bit of fun.  Originally, the idea was just to wear a garment you have made and mingle but I suggested a proper fashion parade and the owner went for it!

What I Wore

Just before I hit the catwalk.

I chose to wear the floral chiffon dress I’d made for my friend’s wedding about a year and a half ago. It’s floaty and elegant, with cream flowers on a green background. I’ve talked about it on the blog before and it remains one of my favourite makes.

Behind the Seams

I considered shortening the dress a little for the runway but decided against it—sometimes it’s best to leave things just as they are when you first finish them.

There were about 30 participants all gathered in the ‘Vault’—a windowless room that used to be a bank vault but is now the sewing classroom—where we pinned numbers to our garments for the audience to vote.  With no windows (and nobody turned on the air conditioning), it got pretty hot and loud with all the nervous and excited chatter!  It reminded me of being in my intermediate school classroom getting changed into costume for the school production of Oliver Twist!

On the runway

The setup was just like a runway show, with an aisle between two rows of seated guests (around 40 people).  One at a time, we each posed at one end, walked the runway and posed again in front of a branded backdrop while a photographer snapped a photo.  The photographer was one of the talented sewists from my class. She wore an outfit she made–a stunning pant and waistcoat suit – but she chose not to walk the runway. 

I was nervous at first, especially since it was hard to hear instructions in the classroom but once I was on the runway, it all flowed naturally.  I felt great wearing my dress and even though I didn’t win, I was proud to represent my sewing journey.

Looking Back

It was such a feel-good experience to walk the runway in something I made myself.  Most of all, I was happy to be celebrating the Sewing Centre’s milestone.

I’d definitely do it again, and many participants thought it should become an annual event, maybe even a fundraiser—people could pay to enter and to attend. Who knows, maybe we’ve just planted the seed for a national-level handmade fashion show, Miss New Zealand style.

Speak to me

Have you ever taken part in a local fashion parade or entered your hand-made clothes in a competition? I’d love to hear your story in the comments!

What I love about the Richie Knit Tunic Dress

Some garments just hit the sweet spot between comfort and versatility—and for me, the Style Arc Richie Knit Tunic Dress is one of them. If you’re looking for a plus size tunic dress pattern that is easy to sew, works with stretch fabrics and feels like wearing your favourite tee (but longer!), this one’s worth a look. Here’s my honest review of the Richie Tunic, made in a beautiful blue and white striped fabric, and why it’s earned a permanent spot in my weekend wardrobe.

This post may include affiliate links, meaning if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission, but it will not cost you any more than the normal price. This helps me continue to provide quality content on this website.

Why I chose the Richie Knit Tunic Dress

I’ll be honest (as always), the Richie Knit Tunic Dress wasn’t originally on my radar but sometimes the sewing universe has a way of guiding you.  I had previously bought a length of blue and white striped fabric with a comfy pair of pants in mind, but as soon as I saw a sketch of the Richie Tunic sewn up in striped knit fabric on the Style Arc website, something clicked. I immediately thought: “That pattern is perfect for my fabric.”  It just looked so fresh, simple, and wearable and I could immediately imagine it in my wardrobe. I changed my mind (every woman’s prerogative) and cut out the Richie instead of pants. I have no regrets!

Working with stripes

Let’s talk about the fabric.  I used a medium-weight cotton spandex fabric with just enough stretch to be comfy but still hold its shape. It was ideal for this tunic which has banded short sleeves and a high-low hem. The trickiest part? Cutting it out! Matching stripes on a stretchy fabric takes patience and a good eye. I spent quite a bit of time getting the fabric ready to cut, smoothing it out and ensuring the stripes aligned perfectly at the selvedges. 

Once I had it all laid out properly, I used clips to keep the striped knit fabric from shifting. I was determined to get those stripes to match across the seams and neckline, and I’m happy to report it all lined up in the end—including at the V-neck!

Fit for plus size

I made the tunic in a size 24, going up slightly from the size chart recommendation for my measurements to achieve a relaxed, oversized look that fits my body but isn’t too snug. There’s nothing restrictive about this plus size tunic dress.  It skims over the body in a really flattering way and has just enough shape. 

I didn’t need to make any adjustments, which is always a win.

It’s become my weekend go to. The cotton spandex fabric is thicker than a standard t-shirt knit, so it’s surprisingly warm, but still breathable. Over summer, I wore it with 3/4-length white leggings, and now that the weather’s cooling, I’ve been layering it with a long-sleeved top underneath and pairing it with jeans. It’s just that kind of garment—low effort, maximum comfort.

The V neckline (aka the stripe matching victory!)

If there was one tricky part of this garment, it was definitely the neckline.  I had to unpick and resew it a couple of times to get the striped fabric to align properly and look good but that’s sewing, right? Sometimes you need to backtrack to get the result you want.

I appreciated the diagram on the instructions which helped me visualise how to attach the neckline correctly.  Then it was a case of wiggling the stripes to go where I wanted them.  That’s one of joys of stretch fabric.  When it came together—when those stripes lined up perfectly for the entire V—it was incredibly satisfying and absolutely worth the effort.

White the V at the bottom isn’t absolutely perfect, it is close enough for me.  I was worried too much unpicking and redoing might damage the fabric so I satisficed.

The pocket

The pattern has a pocket placed on the top left, just below the V neckline.  Somehow mine ended up on the right hand side.  I guess I was so focussed on matching up the stripes, I didn’t pay enough attention to the pocket instructions.

In retrospect, I should have sewn the top edge of the pocket down before attaching the pocket to the front.  Stretch knit fabric has a tendency to curl and sewing it down would have prevented this.  It doesn’t bother me much.  In fact, I’ve been tempted to remove the pocket.  I’m not going to though as I don’t want to damage the fabric in the process and ruin what has become one of my favourite garments.

A funny story

I sent one of my best friends a photo of me wearing the Richie Tunic Dress after I finished it.  She said: “I dare you to put something in that pocket and walk around in public, preferably a hand.”

Her point was the pocket serves no practical purpose.  It is just a style addition.

With the striped fabric or any pattern-matched design/print, the pocket is hardly noticeable and the garment would look perfectly fine without it.  A plain-coloured fabric could benefit from the pocket (especially if it is a contrast colour or print).  It does draw the eye to the chest though so if you are self conscious about your bust, it might be best to leave off the pocket.

Pattern Instructions and Sewing Experience

I’ve read mixed reviews about Style Arc pattern instructions, with some sewists finding them a bit limited, especially for beginners.  I didn’t have any problems following the instructions for the Richie Tunic Dress.

I used my Babylock Victory overlocker for nearly the whole project (except the neckline which I did on my Janome Skyline S 7 using a walking foot) until I was happy with how it looked, then I overlocked to tidy the edges.  Overlocking made it a quick sew and gave a neat finish.  If you’ve sewn a few knit garments before, you’ll likely be fine making this pattern.

Wearing it with confidence

Now, a quick note about stripes. I know not everyone feels comfortable wearing them, especially horizontal stripes and especially for plus sizes. I used to hesitate too but I’m wearing this plus size tunic dress because I love it.  It’s comfy and it fits well and I feel good in it and that’s what matters most.

Final Verdict

The Style Arc Richie Tunic Dress is a winner in my book. If you’re looking for a pattern to use with cotton spandex fabric, striped or not, this is a great option.  It is comfy and easy to wear.  It is a no frills, no fuss, straight up sew that, for me, worked straight out of the envelope (or PDF folder) which is kind of rate for plus size sewing.

Would I sew it again? Absolutely.  I’ve got enough of the striped knit fabric left to make a second version or I might make two – stripes front and plain blue on the back as suggested by a good friend of mine or the other way around and I’m already looking forward to it.

If you’re after a no-fuss, pull-it-on-and-go tunic that works for a plus size frame, the Richie Tunic Dress might be just what you’re after.

Let me know in a comment if you’ve made one before, if you plan to make one or if you’re currently making one.  If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them.