You might be familiar with sewing pattern companies such as Butterick, Vogue, Simplicity, Burda, and McCalls. These companies have a long-standing legacy in the world of home sewing. Established in the 19th or early to mid-20th century, these companies have provided home sewers with accessible, high-quality patterns catering to a wide range of skill levels and styles. The evolution of the sewing machine and the popularity of home sewing have significantly impacted pattern design and production. Today, many independent pattern designers offer sewing patterns in both paper and digital formats.
Note: This article may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on a link and purchase something, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Exploring the history and evolution of traditional sewing pattern companies is always interesting. Here, I investigate some of the more well-known brands.
Butterick Sewing Patterns
Butterick, established in 1863 by Ebenezer Butterick, is notable for being the first sewing pattern company to create graded (multi-size) sewing patterns. Ebenezer’s wife was frustrated by the single-size tissue paper patterns available at the time, finding them ill-fitting. The multi-size innovation allowed home sewers to achieve a better fit without extensive pattern drafting skills, marking a significant advancement in the pattern-making industry.
Vogue Sewing Patterns
Vogue Pattern Service began in 1899 as a spinoff of Vogue Magazine’s weekly pattern feature. In 1909, Condé Nast, an American publisher and entrepreneur, bought Vogue and founded Condé Nast, a mass media company publishing titles such as Vanity Fair, Vogue, and The New Yorker. As a result, Vogue Pattern Company was formed in 1914, and in 1916, Vogue patterns were sold in department stores.
One particularly appealing aspect of Vogue patterns is their focus on high fashion. Vogue collaborates with top designers to offer patterns that bring runway styles to the home sewer. These patterns are typically more challenging and detailed, appealing to experienced sewers looking to replicate couture looks.
I haven’t made any Vogue garments myself (yet), but I definitely intend to try. I have some Vogue patterns by Sandra Betzina under the title “Today’s Fit.” A sewing friend introduced me to Sandra Betzina’s patterns. Some are quite hard to come by, but they are still available. Sandra Betzina, who retired in 2023 at age 80 but still sews, has her own website, Power Sewing, where you can buy her patterns and books and watch instructional videos.
Simplicity Sewing Patterns
Founded in 1927, Simplicity is renowned for its user-friendly patterns perfect for beginners. The sewing pattern company’s patterns often come with clear instructions and multiple variations, allowing sewers to create a variety of looks from a single pattern.
I started my sewing journey with Simplicity sewing patterns. My first was a straight skirt for work (pattern 8676 – not plus size). I later made a lined bolero jacket and a pair of pants with a Style pattern, which I believe was also under the Simplicity brand (pattern Style 1844 – not plus size). I was shocked to find this listed on a vintage sewing patterns website. It has a 1990 copyright! That is not vintage! Of course, I was younger and smaller then.
Burda Sewing Patterns
Founded in Germany in 1950, Burda revolutionized the sewing pattern industry by introducing patterns printed directly on the pages of its magazine, Burda Style. This approach made high-quality fashion patterns more accessible. Burda sewing patterns are known for European-inspired designs, often incorporating the latest trends from the fashion capitals of the world. The company’s patterns are praised for their precision and style, appealing to fashion-forward sewists seeking contemporary and sophisticated looks.
These days you can get Burda patterns in their envelopes, but you can still buy the Burda Style magazine with patterns. Personally, I find it frustrating using patterns from magazines because they tend to have multiple patterns printed on top of each other, each in a different color to tell them apart. If you want to make multiple different garments from one magazine/book, you need to trace each one or copy the pattern multiple times to cut out the ones you want. In my view, having so many different lines on a page can be confusing and easily lead to mistakes. However, my Burda magazine-loving sewing friend often creates gorgeous clothes using these patterns.
Mergers and Acquisitions
Various mergers and acquisitions have occurred among well-known sewing pattern companies over the years. McCalls, for example, another well-known brand established by Scottish tailor James McCall in 1870 in New York, acquired other pattern companies but continued to produce them under their unique brands. Patterns under the McCalls brand name and others not covered in-depth in this article, such as Know Me and New Look, appear to come under the Simplicity umbrella. It certainly seems that way from the Simplicity website. Kwik Sew is another brand founded in 1967, according to a vintage sewing patterns website.
It can be difficult to keep up with which brands are still produced and by whom. The latest I can see is CSS Industries, the company that owned the Big 4 sewing pattern brands (Simplicity, McCall’s, Vogue, and Butterick), announced in 2020 it was being acquired by Design Group, a UK-based company that paid approximately $88 million.
Are Traditional Patterns Still Popular?
Absolutely! Despite the rise of digital patterns and independent designers, traditional pattern companies remain popular. Their extensive archives and commitment to quality ensure they continue to be go-to resources for sewing enthusiasts around the world.
Do They Have Plus Size Patterns?
While some traditional brands offer “plus sizes,” I recommend always checking the sizing as you may find the brand’s idea of plus size doesn’t always match larger body shapes. Sometimes the sizing varies from pattern to pattern under the same brand. I wouldn’t want you to be disappointed buying a pattern from one of these traditional brands only to find it doesn’t fit.
I personally dislike purchasing traditional sewing patterns because they often do not have my size. While it is possible to re-size a traditional pattern, it is not necessarily as easy as simply increasing the pattern size. It can become an expensive mistake. Read my experience of buying a pattern in what was known as a plus size range to make a denim jacket.
Where Can You Buy Patterns from These Companies?
Traditionally, these are sold in envelopes containing the paper pattern pieces and instruction sheets. See what is inside a sewing pattern envelope. Traditional printed patterns are usually sold at fabric or sewing stores, and some are available through online retailers. Most pattern companies have their official websites and various other platforms where you can buy their patterns.
Differing Seam Allowances
One thing to be particularly cautious of when buying traditional patterns (or any pattern) is the seam allowance. Check if the pattern includes seam allowance. Most patterns do, but some have smaller or larger seam allowances than others. For some, you need to add a seam allowance.
Tissue Paper Patterns
Tissue paper is still used by some pattern companies. It is horrible to work with. It is very fragile and can tear easily. I often hear complaints from people who attend the same sewing class as me about tissue paper patterns. If you pin the pattern multiple times, the pinned areas wear out, meaning the pattern might move on the fabric. I use Sellotape to strengthen weak areas or fix tears in the paper, but the Sellotape can weaken with age and peel off the paper, sometimes taking pattern markings with it. Of course, it is possible to copy the tissue paper pattern, either by tracing it onto pattern fabric or by photocopying. It is also possible to scan tissue paper patterns, but most companies that do this do not guarantee that the fragile paper would not tear on its way through their scanner or copier.
How much do they cost?
Check back soon to see a price comparison.