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Some people fall into sewing by chance.  Many inherit it through generations. For Jenna, sewing was stitched into her childhood by her mum. At just four years old, Jenna was sewing Barbie doll clothes. By seven, she was turning the crank on a hand-wound Singer machine, piecing together her own clothing.

“I remember sewing a skirt, a little red wrap thing.”

Early lessons and exploding overlockers

Like many in the 1980s, Jenna learned more about sewing at intermediate school and high school.  She got her first “real” sewing machine, an Elnita (like the Elna machines of today). Later, her dad bought her a Babylock overlocker at an auction.

“This was an old metal one. Heavy as anything. Very, very basic. Only three thread and every now and then it would explode. You’d be overlocking along, it didn’t matter if you were going slow or fast, you couldn’t avoid it.  Every now and then it would just go bang and throw out all this really stinky smoke and give you a hell of a fright. Once you stopped shaking and it cooled down for a while, you could carry on,” Jenna laughs.

A formal path into fashion

It was inevitable Jenna would follow the thread to Otago Polytech in the mid-90s, achieving a diploma in fashion design.  She graduated top of her class, then started her sewing career teaching at a Salvation Army training centre.

Pickle, pillows and Lavender Blue

Not long after and on a whim, Jenna packed up her sewing supplies and headed to Palmerston North where she ran her mum’s high-end linen shop. That eventually evolved into her own children’s clothing label, “Pickle” (her niece’s nickname). She bought an embroidery machine and embroidered the brand onto every piece. The business bloomed until big brand children’s clothing manufacturers swooped in and pushed her out of the market.

Instead, in partnership with her Mum, Jenna focused on household linens – hand towels, bath towels, face cloths, sheets and pillowcases (with a little lavender sachet inside).  Having realised what the embroidery machine could do, Jenna designed a sprig of lavender which she added to all the linens with the words “Lavender Blue”.  Eventually the number of machines multiplied to four running full-time and the business sold the products throughout New Zealand.

Earthquakes and setbacks

After nine-and-a-half intense years (instead of the six months she originally promised to work with her mother), Jenna moved to Christchurch. There, she met her partner and, moving into his home, set up her sewing business in a spare room.  She juggled Roman blinds, dressmaking and uniform production before the Christchurch earthquakes brought everything to an abrupt halt.

It was too dangerous to stay in the broken house. There was no room to sew in the tiny motel unit she and her partner lived in while waiting for a builder to become available to fix the house.

The building work did not start until almost a year after the earthquakes and took eight months.  Realising the motel unit was not satisfactory, the couple moved into a furnished flat. Jenna set up a workroom at a friend’s house but the sewing did not pick up to the level it was previously. 

A world trip, a wedding and a new start

Jenna and her partner decided to take a break and spent seven weeks travelling the world.  They got married in Las Vegas and returned to Christchurch happy.  The uniform company Jenna had worked for was desperate for her help so she worked in-house for a while. However, the city was still broken and many of its residents were still sad.

“It was still a very negative feeling,” Jenna says.  “We were kind of sick of being around sad and angry people.”

Finding a home

The turning point came when Jenna and her husband found an old general store for sale in the tiny town of Winchester on SH1 in South Canterbury.  Jenna turned the shop front into her studio.

“It is really neat being out there in the shop and thinking about the women who wore those beautiful corset dresses and people tying up their horses outside.  Actually, the hitching posts are still there,” Jenna says.

Bearsies, ball gowns and back to teaching

The business, Jenna Sews, was born.  Wedding dresses, ball gowns and alterations, Jenna sews them all and more.  She made “Bearsies” from recycled denim and sold them at markets. The Swanndri company spotted Jenna’s work and contracted her to make teddy bears from its iconic checked wool fabric. She made almost 1000 of them, up to 175 at a time.  They took over Jenna’s life.  After several rises in the minimum wage, materials cost and shipping rates, the Swanndri bears stopped being viable to produce.

Recently, Jenna has gone full circle and teaching has become part of her weekly rhythm again.

For someone who has been sewing since she was four (just over 50 years!) the needle is far from stopping.

Talk to me

Jenna’s journey is proof that sewing can carry us through every stage of life. Tell me how long you have been sewing and your biggest sewing achievement in the comments.

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Sewing in real sizes – Jenna’s views on plus size fashion

The jacket which swishes and stays on my mind

When it comes to plus-size fashion, Jenna gets it. She’s lived it, stitched it and like many of us, has stood in front of the mirror in a clothing store asking: “Is this really the best they can do?”

The emotional cost of clothing

Even as a skilled dressmaker and the owner of Jenna Sews (a sewing and alterations business in Winchester, New Zealand), Jenna isn’t immune to the emotional toll of plus-size fashion.

“I’ve got very low self-esteem because of my size,” she says. “I always have had and I probably always will.”

Shopping for clothes is often frustrating. The choices are limited, the quality inconsistent and it’s rare to find clothes that make her feel good.

“As a designer, I’m unrestricted in what I can sew,” she says. “But how I look in it? That’s another matter.”

She remembers her school ball not for the glamour but for the disappointment. Unable to find a flattering pattern, she settled on something that felt more “mother of the bride” than magical.

“I didn’t feel pretty,” she says. “But at least I had something to wear.”

Reshaping the standard style

“I haven’t bought clothes for something like five years,” she says. “I would normally go to K&K (a New Zealand size 10–26 chain store) but I don’t like wearing the same thing as everybody else.”

As a trained fashion designer, Jenna knows how to make garments that fit and flatter. Yet despite her couture-level skills, she rarely designs or makes clothes for herself.

“I might do a sketch, draft the pattern, make it sometimes but I tend not to design for myself,” she says. “I have a look in my mind and I don’t fit the look.”

It’s a quiet confession many plus-size women will understand but Jenna’s thinking is beginning to shift. Recently, she’s been reimagining what’s possible.

“I’ve got all these ideas in my head at the moment,” she says, her eyes lighting up.

A holiday mindset shift and a boutique revelation

A recent cruise with her mum proved to be a turning point. After the trip, they stopped in at Zebrano, a high-end boutique known for stylish plus-size clothing. Jenna’s mum offered to treat her to something special.

She picked out a few pieces — including a showstopping $680 dress.

“It’s so gorgeous,” she says. “I haven’t even worn it yet. I can’t wear it without the right shoes!”

There was also a simple black stretch top with dropped shoulders and a pouch pocket for $270 and a striped shirt with a sewn-in vest, feature collar and buckled ties. Jenna didn’t share the price for that one, maybe it was a bit too eye-watering. An oversized Japanese-designed sweatshirt with unique dye techniques also caught her eye priced at $350.

Shopping at Zebrano gave Jenna the opportunity to see, touch and try on garments that fit and made her feel confident, stylish and seen.  It was a moment of reflection, not just about the cost of quality plus-size fashion but about the value.

Maybe, just maybe, it made her think it’s worth making beautiful things for herself again and maybe designing for others.

Analysing the value of style

Sometimes plus-size garments are more expensive and not just because they use more fabric.  Often it’s because the options are so limited.

“Shops charge more because you’re plus size, because you’re restricted and have to buy whatever you can get,” Jenna says.

“I’m just coming to terms with the fact that if I want a designer look, I have to pay for it,” she reflects. “This time, it’s not because it’s plus size, it’s because it’s designer. If a skinny girl wants to look like that, she has to pay too. If you want to look edgy, you either pay for edgy or you learn to make it yourself.”

It’s a tricky space, wanting clothes that fit your body and reflect your personality but not always having the time, energy or money to buy them or even to make them.

Jenna understands that better than most. She’s spent decades reshaping other people’s garments and reshaping ideas about what fit and fashion can be.

Possibility, patterns and progress

Still, Jenna remains hopeful and passionate about plus-size style.

“There are some beautiful things out there now if you’ve got the money,” she says. “It’s getting better. But there’s still so much room to grow.”

For those of us who sew, there’s even more reason to be optimistic.

“For plus size, I’m thrilled about the variety of patterns you can get these days,” she says. “But there’s still a long way to go.”

Clients continue to come to her for alterations, custom fits and sometimes personalised designs. The demand is there. 

A new season begins

“Designing is something I can do and something I’ll always be able to do,” she says. “And when I get to do something design-y, then I get really excited. I can start with a piece of paper and a pencil and a set of measurements and end up with something edgy and stunning.”

Now, as she begins to dabble again in design “as a hobby,” with plus-size bodies in mind, perhaps Jenna is coming into a new season in her career. After all, designing a plus-size collection was her original vision when she studied fashion design more than 30 years ago

“If I like something, I’ll design it, put it out there and see what happens.”

Yes, Jenna. We see what’s happening — and we’re here for it.

Jenna is Creative Genius at Jenna Sews, 153 Temuka-Orari Highway, Winchester.

You know that feeling when a garment just gets you? Not because it’s flashy or on trend but because it moves right, feels right, fits right and looks great on you.  That’s exactly how I felt the first time I wore Jenna’s jacket.

A chance discovery

I “found” the women’s plus size jacket during a sewing class at Timaru Sewing Centre.  It was lying on a pile of scrap fabric.

“Oooo, I wonder who this belongs to,” I said picking it up and looking at how well it was sewn.

“I love it.” I held it up and looked in the mirror with it against my body.

“I want it,” I said.  My fellow sewing students rolled their eyes.

Lost and found and lost

A number of times I thought I’d lost a favourite jacket by leaving it on the back of a chair in a meeting room or conference centre, at an event or even in the library.  I felt so lucky because I’d go back and it was still there but one time, it had gone.  While it is annoying to lose a favourite jacket, I hope whoever is wearing it now likes it as much as I did.

Doing the right thing

I’m an honest person so I couldn’t just take this jacket.  Not when I knew the owner could probably be found.

I took it to the owner of the Timaru Sewing Centre and she knew immediately who it belonged to.  It was Jenna’s – one of the tutors of another sewing class.

I handed it over but the garment stayed on my mind.

Trying it on with permission

The next day, after a quick phone call, I had Jenna’s permission to try on the jacket.  I practically ran to the sewing centre during my lunch break for the opportunity to see this beautiful jacket again.

The sewing centre manager snapped a few photos of me in the jacket.  I wore a simple black dress I’d made and somehow the whole outfit just worked.

“It looks great on you. Did you plan to wear that dress?” the sewing centre owner asked. Nope. Total fluke. I’d only phoned on a whim, wondering if Jenna’s jacket might still be around.

Oh, it felt so good with it on my back, a perfect fit.

I decided I needed to meet Jenna and talk to her about her the women’s plus size jacket sewing pattern she’d used to make it.

Advanced but doable with encouragement

“It’s a great jacket, isn’t it?” Jenna beamed.

It absolutely is.

Turns out, this dreamy garment wasn’t just made for admiration. Jenna had originally brought it in the jacket for one of her students.

“She wanted something with a bit of swing, maybe a high-low hem,” Jenna explained. “And I thought, well—you can do that with anything. Your sleeve length, hem—those are easy changes.  This women’s jacket sewing pattern had all the characteristics she was looking for.”

It does swish beautifully. The student loved it but worried it might be too challenging.

“It is an advanced pattern,” Jenna said. “An advanced Vogue pattern.” (Vogue 1494).

She looked at me and smiled. “But you could totally do it.”

That moment stayed with me. Not just because the jacket was gorgeous (and it was) but because of what it represented – a level-up moment in sewing. It was that gentle nudge toward something more ambitious – maybe even a little glamorous.

From stash to sparkle

“I just fell in love with the fabric,” Jenna told me. “I bought three metres (it was 150cm wide) and I had it sitting in my stash for ages and I didn’t know what to do with it.”

Of course I had to ask where it was from.

“The fabric store,” she said. “It’s 100 per cent linen but it’s foil-printed—that’s where the metallic sheen comes from.”

The owner of the sewing centre and I had both wondered what it was. We had guesses about silk and blends but it turns out it was pure linen, glammed up with a foil overlay. Now I know, it makes sense. It’s one of those fabrics that quietly commands attention.

The big bang

Jenna didn’t know what she was going to make with the fabric when she bought it, maybe pants. At some point, as these things happen, the fabric and the pattern collided in a little burst of creative clarity.

“I love Vogue patterns and when Spotlight has a sale, well… I go a bit nuts buying them,” she laughed. “Other times the fabric leads the way. But this jacket—it was like a big bang in the middle. One day I just knew—this fabric was meant to become that jacket.”

Jenna made the jacket not long after moving to her current home in Winchester, South Canterbury, New Zealand.  It was around 2015 or 2016. The fabric had travelled with her from Christchurch, quietly waiting for its moment and it didn’t disappoint.

A jacket with just the right drama

“I wear it in spring and autumn—it’s not warm enough for winter, and you don’t want to wear a jacket like that for summer,” Jenna explained. 

I personally think it would make a great special occasion jacket or as Jenna says, it is for every day. It’s one you can wear when you want to feel a little bit special. Isn’t that the dream – everyday pieces that make you feel like the an A-list celebrity.

What Jenna loved most about making it was the topstitching—especially across the dramatic collar. “I love garments with topstitching,” she said. “And that collar has lots of top stitching.  It’s just gorgeous.”

Interestingly, the pattern shows the collar standing up but it also sits flat beautifully.

This is one of the few garments Jenna has made for herself that turned out better than she ever expected and it shows. The cut, the shimmer, the swing. It’s got presence, it’s got personality and it made me feel fabulous just trying it on.  That’s how clothing should be.

Inspiration that sticks

Later, Jenna showed me the pattern (Vogue 1494).

“This is my spare pattern,” she said, holding it like a treasure. “I bought it twice because I knew it was going to be popular.”

The pattern is now out of print so Jenna is glad she bought two.

“This one’s uncut.  I’m not cutting it until the other one is absolutely dead.”

When she does open the pattern envelope, Jenna intends to copy it onto something more permanent. I get it. Some patterns are worth preserving.

The women’s jacket sewing pattern is designed to be made with lamb leather but it works beautifully in other fabrics too. It swishes like a dream.

I think what I love most is how much care and attention Jenna puts into her pieces, not just in making them but in teaching others how to make them too.

“If you want to make your wedding dress or something horribly complicated … nothing is too challenging,” Jenna told me.

Walking away inspired

I walked away from that conversation with Jenna thinking two things:

1. I really want to make that jacket; and
2. I’m not going to sell myself short next time a “challenging” pattern comes my way.

When something makes you feel that good – swishy and all – it’s worth the extra effort.

Jenna is Creative Genius at Jenna Sews, 153 Temuka-Orari Highway, Winchester.

As sewists, we know fabric can accumulate quickly. What was once a carefully curated selection of materials for future projects often turns into a mountain of forgotten fabric that no longer inspires.  Recently I came across the Facebook group Sewing at Home NZ.  Soon after I joined, the admins posted a “de-stash” challenge and not only had I found a way to get involved with other sewists but a quick and easy way to say goodbye to at least one piece of fabric from my stash.

Step up to the challenge

The premise was simple: participants were to pass on fabric from their stashes to the next in line in the group.  Person one passes to person two and so on until the last participant passes fabric on to person one – like a chain.  The fabric pieces had to have been sitting around for at least two years.  The challenge was to create something with the fabric you received.  The result is then posted on the Facebook page for judging by participants like a “people’s choice”.

The prize

The competition prize was a $50 prezzie card.  In New Zealand, a prezzie card is a gift card that can be purchased and pre-loaded with a chosen amount and works like a credit card – you can spend it anywhere, not just a specific store like a gift card.

Although my main reason for participating in the challenge was for the fun and experience, I can’t deny there was a little competitive streak in me.  An extra $50 spending money is a nice incentive to create something that stands out.  However, at the end of the day, the real reward is knowing I took on a creative challenge and made something worthwhile.

My de-stash

I immediately knew what fabric I would be passing on from my stash.  It had been in my stash at least two years so it met the challenge criteria.  It was 2.1m of beige denim-like stretch fabric with a maroon paisley print.  I liked it when I bought it but over time it has earned the name “ugly fabric” and I cannot think what I would do with it.

Fabric sent

I contacted the person to whom I was to pass on my “ugly fabric” and apologised in advance for what I was about to send them.  Thankfully their response was a laugh.  I didn’t describe it to them.  I thought they might like the surprise.  At least there was a good length of it so they would have plenty of scope to make something the fabric deserved.

The person passing fabric to me asked me what I would like – stretch knit, woven, patterned or plain.  I thought they must have a huge stash to have enough fabric sitting around for two years or more to allow choices like that.  It was a good opportunity to be picky but I thought that would be cheating.  I said I would be happy with whatever they sent me.

Fabric received

A few days later, a small parcel arrived in my mailbox.  I was about to head out to go shopping when it arrived. I didn’t want to go inside to get a pair of scissors to open it at that time so it sat on the passenger seat of my car tempting me for a couple of hours.

I called in to my parents’ house on my way home and borrowed my mum’s scissors.  I couldn’t wait any longer.  Mum was excited as I was to open the parcel and see what fabric delight was inside.

I wasn’t sure what to expect.  Had I received something I loved or would I end up with another piece of “ugly”, uninspiring fabric?  I was nervous.  I put the scissors into the courier bag opening and … chop … it was time to see what I had been sent.

The 80s called, you forgot your dress

Out popped about 82” x 34” of multi-coloured plaid fabric with shades of green, blue, pink, mustard yellow and white. I was immediately transported back to the 1980s.  It reminded me of a tiered dress I wore in my teens.  Mum laughed.  “That’s interesting.” Was all she said.

It wasn’t what I would choose for myself these days (even if tiered dresses and plaid/gingham fabrics are back in style) but there was something fun about it.

It’s everywhere

You know how you have something on your mind, then suddenly all you can see relates to that thing?  Well, that happened with the plaid fabric.

I went shopping at Ballantynes (a high-end department store) in Christchurch, New Zealand.  After browsing for a while, I found a plaid bedspread.  The colours were brighter than the fabric I received and pink was the predominant colour rather than green but it made me think plaid perhaps wasn’t so bad.

Later, I checked my Facebook feed and saw a video of a woman promoting a New Zealand fabric store.  She wore a plaid dress very similar to the one I wore in the 1980s and with similar colours to the fabric I had been sent.

Not long after I decided to browse in the fabric store and found yet more plaid.

Maybe the fabric I received was not as unfashionable as I thought.  It is said fashion goes in cycles.

Creativity in unfamiliar territory

Sewing something using fabric you didn’t choose yourself can be a bit intimidating.  After a few days and with the start of the competition approaching, I couldn’t think of what to sew with the fabric I had received.  Competition participants had from 1 May to 24 May to create their entry.  As a sewist, I usually prefer fabrics that fit my personal style and the items I want to create for myself but with this challenge, I knew I had to step outside my comfort zone.

To be continued

Come back soon for part two.

Some garments just hit the sweet spot between comfort and versatility—and for me, the Style Arc Richie Knit Tunic Dress is one of them. If you’re looking for a plus size tunic dress pattern that is easy to sew, works with stretch fabrics and feels like wearing your favourite tee (but longer!), this one’s worth a look. Here’s my honest review of the Richie Tunic, made in a beautiful blue and white striped fabric, and why it’s earned a permanent spot in my weekend wardrobe.

This post may include affiliate links, meaning if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission, but it will not cost you any more than the normal price. This helps me continue to provide quality content on this website.

Why I chose the Richie Knit Tunic Dress

I’ll be honest (as always), the Richie Knit Tunic Dress wasn’t originally on my radar but sometimes the sewing universe has a way of guiding you.  I had previously bought a length of blue and white striped fabric with a comfy pair of pants in mind, but as soon as I saw a sketch of the Richie Tunic sewn up in striped knit fabric on the Style Arc website, something clicked. I immediately thought: “That pattern is perfect for my fabric.”  It just looked so fresh, simple, and wearable and I could immediately imagine it in my wardrobe. I changed my mind (every woman’s prerogative) and cut out the Richie instead of pants. I have no regrets!

Working with stripes

Let’s talk about the fabric.  I used a medium-weight cotton spandex fabric with just enough stretch to be comfy but still hold its shape. It was ideal for this tunic which has banded short sleeves and a high-low hem. The trickiest part? Cutting it out! Matching stripes on a stretchy fabric takes patience and a good eye. I spent quite a bit of time getting the fabric ready to cut, smoothing it out and ensuring the stripes aligned perfectly at the selvedges. 

Once I had it all laid out properly, I used clips to keep the striped knit fabric from shifting. I was determined to get those stripes to match across the seams and neckline, and I’m happy to report it all lined up in the end—including at the V-neck!

Fit for plus size

I made the tunic in a size 24, going up slightly from the size chart recommendation for my measurements to achieve a relaxed, oversized look that fits my body but isn’t too snug. There’s nothing restrictive about this plus size tunic dress.  It skims over the body in a really flattering way and has just enough shape. 

I didn’t need to make any adjustments, which is always a win.

It’s become my weekend go to. The cotton spandex fabric is thicker than a standard t-shirt knit, so it’s surprisingly warm, but still breathable. Over summer, I wore it with 3/4-length white leggings, and now that the weather’s cooling, I’ve been layering it with a long-sleeved top underneath and pairing it with jeans. It’s just that kind of garment—low effort, maximum comfort.

The V neckline (aka the stripe matching victory!)

If there was one tricky part of this garment, it was definitely the neckline.  I had to unpick and resew it a couple of times to get the striped fabric to align properly and look good but that’s sewing, right? Sometimes you need to backtrack to get the result you want.

I appreciated the diagram on the instructions which helped me visualise how to attach the neckline correctly.  Then it was a case of wiggling the stripes to go where I wanted them.  That’s one of joys of stretch fabric.  When it came together—when those stripes lined up perfectly for the entire V—it was incredibly satisfying and absolutely worth the effort.

White the V at the bottom isn’t absolutely perfect, it is close enough for me.  I was worried too much unpicking and redoing might damage the fabric so I satisficed.

Satisficed:  A cross between sufficing and being satisfied.  A very useful term in sewing!

The pocket

The pattern has a pocket placed on the top left, just below the V neckline.  Somehow mine ended up on the right hand side.  I guess I was so focussed on matching up the stripes, I didn’t pay enough attention to the pocket instructions.

In retrospect, I should have sewn the top edge of the pocket down before attaching the pocket to the front.  Stretch knit fabric has a tendency to curl and sewing it down would have prevented this.  It doesn’t bother me much.  In fact, I’ve been tempted to remove the pocket.  I’m not going to though as I don’t want to damage the fabric in the process and ruin what has become one of my favourite garments.

A funny story

I sent one of my best friends a photo of me wearing the Richie Tunic Dress after I finished it.  She said: “I dare you to put something in that pocket and walk around in public, preferably a hand.”

Her point was the pocket serves no practical purpose.  It is just a style addition.

With the striped fabric or any pattern-matched design/print, the pocket is hardly noticeable and the garment would look perfectly fine without it.  A plain-coloured fabric could benefit from the pocket (especially if it is a contrast colour or print).  It does draw the eye to the chest though so if you are self conscious about your bust, it might be best to leave off the pocket.

Pattern Instructions and Sewing Experience

I’ve read mixed reviews about Style Arc pattern instructions, with some sewists finding them a bit limited, especially for beginners.  I didn’t have any problems following the instructions for the Richie Tunic Dress.

I used my Babylock Victory overlocker for nearly the whole project (except the neckline which I did on my Janome Skyline S 7 using a walking foot) until I was happy with how it looked, then I overlocked to tidy the edges.  Overlocking made it a quick sew and gave a neat finish.  If you’ve sewn a few knit garments before, you’ll likely be fine making this pattern.

Wearing it with confidence

Now, a quick note about stripes. I know not everyone feels comfortable wearing them, especially horizontal stripes and especially for plus sizes. I used to hesitate too but I’m wearing this plus size tunic dress because I love it.  It’s comfy and it fits well and I feel good in it and that’s what matters most.

Final Verdict

The Style Arc Richie Tunic Dress is a winner in my book. If you’re looking for a pattern to use with cotton spandex fabric, striped or not, this is a great option.  It is comfy and easy to wear.  It is a no frills, no fuss, straight up sew that, for me, worked straight out of the envelope (or PDF folder) which is kind of rate for plus size sewing.

Would I sew it again? Absolutely.  I’ve got enough of the striped knit fabric left to make a second version or I might make two – stripes front and plain blue on the back as suggested by a good friend of mine or the other way around and I’m already looking forward to it.

If you’re after a no-fuss, pull-it-on-and-go tunic that works for a plus size frame, the Richie Tunic Dress might be just what you’re after.

Let me know in a comment if you’ve made one before, if you plan to make one or if you’re currently making one.  If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them.

I went looking for a plus size dress form and I think the Bootstrap Fashion dress form might be my best option. Read on to see what I discovered.

Battle of the plus size dress forms

I need to be honest with you.  I do not own a dress form … yet.

As I have said in a previous post, a truly plus size dress form is difficult to come by.  Not to mention the cost.  Even more frustrating, the ones I’ve seen online do not come in my size.  I didn’t think I was “too big” but it seems I might be.  I know ladies bigger than me so I’m not the only one having this struggle.

My body measurements

Okay, so in the interests of being totally transparent, here are my measurements:

Bust 53”

Waist 50″

Hips 56″

Yes, I’m an hourglass shape. 

Most people when they think of dress forms think of the adjustable commercially available dress form.  I’ve tried one of these so-called “plus size” adjustable dress forms before but expanding to its maximum capacity wasn’t a good idea.  It broke.  Fortunately, the store owner who let me try it didn’t charge me for it.

I’m not one to easily give up so I decided to do a deep dive into the internet to see what I could find.

Are these really plus size dress forms?

Supafit dress form

One of the first to pop up in my search for a plus size dress form was the Supafit full figure dress form.  It has a maximum 53” bust.  The maximum waist is 46” and hip is 55”. 

The name Supafit made me think of Superman or maybe Superwoman … Wonder Woman perhaps?  Actually, a plus size Wonder Woman with my measurements doesn’t look too bad.  Using the word “super” (or even the misspelled “supa”) when referring to size is a bit of an insult though don’t you think?

Mannequin Madness

Mannequin Madness plus size dress forms seem to go up to size 18/20 and that is bust 46″, waist 36″ and hip 47″.  Way too small for me.

Dress Forms USA

On the Dress Forms USA website, I typed “plus size” into the search tool and the result was: “Sorry, no results.”  Fair enough.  At least they apologised! Looking at their professional models, a female dress form in size 20 (the largest they offer) has bust size 47”, waist 40.5” (the 0.5 makes all the difference!) and hips 48”.  Nowhere near my 60”.  Their male dress forms weren’t much better with 48” chest, 42” waist and 49” hip.  Would I buy a male dress form anyway? No!

Dritz

Slightly better is the Dritz Twin Fit dress form with 48 – 54″ bust, 41 – 47″ waist and 51 – 57″ hips but still too small for me.

The Bootstrap Fashion option

At this point, I gave up.  Well, not quite.  I haven’t lost all hope.  One option which I’m finding attractive is the Bootstrap Fashion dress form.  During my deep dive investigation, Bootstrap Fashion came up repeatedly.  Most people who had made one seemed happy with it.  I saw many photos of women hugging their Bootstrap Fashion dress form and smiling.  What I noticed was the dress forms really were very similar sizes to the women standing next to them.

What’s in a name

The first time someone mentioned Bootstrap Fashion to me, the only thing I could think about was boot laces.   I had to ask them to repeat themselves several times.  Eventually they said “just look it up” so I did and now I’m even more curious.

I was (and still am) impressed.  In case you’re not familiar with it, Bootstrap Fashion is an American company (based on California) that creates custom-fit dress forms.  The process allows you to submit your measurements online, choose your tummy protuberance, buttocks shape, posture and shoulder slope.  Best of all, their maximum measurements were well within range for me.

Bootstrap Fashion founder Yulia Raquel

The brand was born when co-founder Yuliya Raquel had trouble finding clothing for her full-figured mother.  She started making high-end, designer, fashion-forward clothing selling under the brand Igigi.  However, the tools to make these clothes, such as a dress form, were lacking.  That’s how Bootstrap Fashion was born.  If you cannot find what you need, make it yourself, right?

Even better, the cost is only US$28 (that’s about $50 New Zealand dollars as at 1 April 2025).  Yeah, it does still seem a little costly but it’s better than the price of those supposedly plus size dress forms mentioned above that don’t extend to the size you need.

Bootstrap Fashion creates more than just dress forms

Slopers explained

Bootstrap also creates slopers from which you can develop your own creations as well as pre-designed clothing patterns you can buy customised to your measurements and shape.

SLOPER – a sloper (also called a block or foundation pattern) is a basic pattern that serves as the foundation for creating other garment patterns. It’s essentially a template of the body, without seam allowances or design elements, allowing you to easily draft and adjust patterns for various garments. 

Bootstrap Fashion garment patterns

Bootstrap Fashion also has patterns for various stylish garments from US $5, all custom fit to your individual measurements.

Bootstrap Fashion Dress Form

Going back to Bootstrap Fashion dress forms, I’m excited.  This is an option to sew a pattern to create a dress form that replicates your body as accurately as possible. 

I’m not quite ready to buy, I need to talk to a few people who have made one.  I’ve heard there are tricky parts and it can take time to put together.  I’m definitely intrigued though.

Why choose Bootstrap Fashion dress form?

• Many sewists struggle with finding a dress form that accurately represents their body shape.
• Commercial dress forms come in limited size ranges and fail to accommodate bigger and unique proportions. 
• The Bootstrap Fashion dress form allows you to create a true-to-size replica of your body shape
• Bootstrap Fashion dress forms avoid high costs associated with professional dress forms (which may not be the right size anyway)
• Enhance sewing accuracy by draping and fitting garments on a perfectly proportioned model of yourself.

What you need to make a Bootstrap Fashion dress form

• Main (woven, not stretchy) fabric
• Fusible woven interfacing
• Interlining/stabiliser
• Cardboard
• Sponge
• Zipper
• Craft glue
• Razor knife
• Wooden, plastic or metal coat stand (or dress form stand)
• Plastic pipe tube
• Polyester fibre fill

Some of the negative factors of Bootstrap Fashion dress form

• Time-consuming – requires patience and careful sewing
• Stuffing can be tricky – needs even distribution to maintain shape
• Durability depends on materials used – a poorly reinforced form may not last as long as a commercial version.

A good friend invited me to her wedding a couple of years ago and I heard myself asking that age-old question: “What am I going to wear?”  Seriously, my wardrobe consists of black pants and coloured tops that I wear to work and jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts that I wear at home.  I have a couple of dresses but the last one I wore (to my cousin’s wedding about 15 years ago) no longer fits!

The inspiration

I tried to see this as an opportunity and I started watching other ladies to see what they were wearing.  It didn’t take me long to notice a dress a colleague of mine had worn a few times.  It has as black base with a pink and cream floral print on chiffon.  It has three tiers in the skirt, a v neckline and side ties that thread across the front under the bust and similarly at the back.  It looked great on her and I envisaged myself wearing something similar.

After seeing her wearing it a few times, I couldn’t resist asking if I could borrow it to see if I could make a pattern from it.  The idea of creating my version of the dress excited me yet it wasn’t without its challenges.  However, challenges are part of the fun of sewing aren’t they?

Finding the right pattern

Given I had a deadline (my friend’s wedding) and having inspected how my friend’s dress was put together, I decided it would be a lot easier to make a dress from scratch rather than trying to make the pattern first and then make the dress.  I wanted something with the same floaty, feminine look as my friends and something which could be made from chiffon like hers. 

Near the start of my search, I found the Style Arc Naomi dress pattern by Style Arc.  It was the closest I could find that replicated the top part of the dress nearly exactly like my friend’s dress.  I kept it in mind as I spent days, weeks even, searching for a pattern online and in fabric shops.  Once my sewing friends and tutor got wind of what I was looking for, they all offered suggestions but none were quite right. 

Of course the date of the wedding was getting closer.  Rather than wasting time or giving up, I decided to go with the Naomi dress and see if I could adapt it to replicate the tiers in my friend’s dress.

My friend kindly said I could loan her dress if things turned to custard as I was making my own.  She must know the struggles sewists have perfecting garments, especially under time pressure.

Choosing the fabric

While looking for patterns, I had also searched for fabric.  I found a jade green chiffon with cream flowers tucked in a corner at my local fabric shop.  I don’t typically go for floral prints so I initially rejected it.  Actually, I wasn’t really sure if the colour suited me. I pushed this away to the back of the shelf just in case I wanted to return to it.  There wasn’t much on the roll and if it turned out to be my only option, I didn’t want to lose it. 

I took two or three 150km (two-hour) road trips to Christchurch, the nearest city to my home, trawling through the fabric stores there and I looked online but my mind kept going back to the fabric I had seen locally.

Visiting the store during my lunch break, I pulled the roll of fabric from the place I had hidden it and asked the store owner to measure it for me.  It was just enough to make the Naomi dress pattern but not enough to add tiers like my friend’s dress.  I put it back on the shelf and kept looking.

A few days later, just two weeks before the wedding and still without fabric, I decided the jade green chiffon floral was the best option.  I bought it during a sewing class at the store and my sewing friends loved it.  One even said she was jealous because she had seen it and thought about buying it but I had beaten her to it.  It must have been her that hid it in the back of the shelf where I found it.

Unfortunately I cannot find this exact fabric but you can buy similar fabric.

The Naomi dress pattern came together quite quickly.  I have to admit, I was a little nervous, wondering if things would turn out the way I wanted or if I’d end up with something I couldn’t wear.  Thank goodness my friend had said I could wear her dress if I wanted to but I was determined to make mine work.

The tricky part came when it was time to make the cords that thread through the front and back of the dress and cinch in under the bust.  They were sewn inside out and were so narrow, it was difficult to pull them back in the right way. 

Furthermore, the cord casing required small holes at either end for the cord to poke through – four holes.  If you have ever sewn with chiffon, you know it is a delicate task.  The fabric tends to slip and slide around and those holes were tricky!  I spent more time than I would have liked jiggling the cords into place.  Thank goodness I had help from my sewing tutor and the owner of the fabric store got involved too.

There was one change I made from the Naomi dress pattern. I decided not to have the side splits. In retrospect, I may also shorten it a bit.

Finally, the night before the wedding, the dress began to look and feel like something which I could wear with pride.  I stayed up late putting elastic in the sleeve cuffs, finishing the hem with a rolled edge on the overlocker and putting some metal stays on the ends of the cords.

Wearing it with pride

What I loved most about sewing this dress, beyond the process, was how it made me feel when I wore it for the first time.  I had made it with my friend’s wedding in mind, knowing I could wear something beautiful for her special day. 

When I put it on and looked in the mirror, I saw something more than just a dress.  I saw an accomplishment and a reflection of my growing skills.  When I walked into the wedding venue, I felt proud of what I had created.

To my surprise, I wasn’t the only one who thought my dress looked great.  While mingling at the wedding, I noticed a few younger girls eyeing my dress.  Many were wearing similar styles – with or without tiers.  I don’t know for sure what they were thinking but I chose to believe they were admiring my dress.

I have to admit I felt a little self conscious as many of the girls were much slimmer than me but I reminded myself the dress was beautiful because I had made it with care and had put love into it.

Looking ahead

Now I’ve worn the dress a few times (even to work) and received compliments on it, I feel inspired to make more.  I think I would definitely use the same pattern again but next time I might add the tiers.  I think I would also change the fabric to something with a little more drape like a rayon print, even another floral!

Lessons learned

What I’ve learned from this process is that stepping out of your comfort zone can lead to incredible results.  I never imagined I would be sewing a dress – something so different to what I normally wear – but it has opened my eyes to a world of possibilities.

While my friend’s wedding was the perfect excuse to make something special, I’ve realised I don’t have to wait for a similar occasion to wear a beautiful dress.  I feel more confident in my ability to create garments that not only fit well but reflect my own style and creativity.

My advice to other plus size sewists

If you are thinking about sewing a dress for the first time, go for it!  You might surprise yourself with what you can accomplish and how it makes you feel.  The satisfaction of creating something with your own hands is unmatched.  Whether it is a simple design or something more complex, just enjoy the process and take your time.  With a little patience and a lot of passion, you can create a piece that is truly your own.

An extra little story

When I met my friend, she had recently split up from her husband of many years.  I had recently separated from my husband too.  I was introduced to my friend by some ladies who cared about us both.  It turned out my friend lived just around the corner from me and worked (as a fabric technology teacher) at the high school next door to my house.  After years not sewing, I decided it was a good time to brush up on my skills with my friend’s help.

At the time, as we had both shared our relationship experiences, my friend told me she would probably not marry again.  Years passed and eventually my friend moved to another town (not too far away).  She remained single then one night she gave me a call to have a “catch up chat”.

As the conversation was coming to a close she suddenly said: “Oh, guess what?” 

“What?” I said.

“I’m engaged!” she said.

I was surprised, yet delighted and made sure my friend knew I wanted an invitation to her wedding.

The next time I went to my sewing class, I shared the news with my friends and the tutor, who took a particular interest.  She had a little glint in her eye as she told me my friend was marrying her twin brother!  She said she had known for several weeks and had to keep it a secret from me!

At the wedding, it was lovely knowing my friend and sewing tutor had just become sisters-in-law.  Even lovelier knowing my tutor helped me sew the dress I wore to my friend’s wedding.

Another occasion to wear my dress

On 8 April 2025, I am attending a VIP night at the store where I bought the fabric for my Naomi dress pattern and where I attend sewing classes. The owner is celebrating 20 years at the helm of the business.

As part of the VIP night, customers have been invited to “catwalk” in garments they have created using at least 50 per cent fabric/materials from the store.

I have decided to wear my dress on the “catwalk”!

There is a prize for “people’s choice” – a new sewing machine! Other attendees at the VIP event will choose who will win.