Some garments just hit the sweet spot between comfort and versatility—and for me, the Style Arc Richie Knit Tunic Dress is one of them. If you’re looking for a plus size tunic dress pattern that is easy to sew, works with stretch fabrics and feels like wearing your favourite tee (but longer!), this one’s worth a look. Here’s my honest review of the Richie Tunic, made in a beautiful blue and white striped fabric, and why it’s earned a permanent spot in my weekend wardrobe.
This post may include affiliate links, meaning if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission, but it will not cost you any more than the normal price. This helps me continue to provide quality content on this website.
Why I chose the Richie Knit Tunic Dress
I’ll be honest (as always), the Richie Knit Tunic Dress wasn’t originally on my radar but sometimes the sewing universe has a way of guiding you. I had previously bought a length of blue and white striped fabric with a comfy pair of pants in mind, but as soon as I saw a sketch of the Richie Tunic sewn up in striped knit fabric on the Style Arc website, something clicked. I immediately thought: “That pattern is perfect for my fabric.” It just looked so fresh, simple, and wearable and I could immediately imagine it in my wardrobe. I changed my mind (every woman’s prerogative) and cut out the Richie instead of pants. I have no regrets!
Working with stripes
Let’s talk about the fabric. I used a medium-weight cotton spandex fabric with just enough stretch to be comfy but still hold its shape. It was ideal for this tunic which has banded short sleeves and a high-low hem. The trickiest part? Cutting it out! Matching stripes on a stretchy fabric takes patience and a good eye. I spent quite a bit of time getting the fabric ready to cut, smoothing it out and ensuring the stripes aligned perfectly at the selvedges.
Once I had it all laid out properly, I used clips to keep the striped knit fabric from shifting. I was determined to get those stripes to match across the seams and neckline, and I’m happy to report it all lined up in the end—including at the V-neck!
Fit for plus size
I made the tunic in a size 24, going up slightly from the size chart recommendation for my measurements to achieve a relaxed, oversized look that fits my body but isn’t too snug. There’s nothing restrictive about this plus size tunic dress. It skims over the body in a really flattering way and has just enough shape.
I didn’t need to make any adjustments, which is always a win.
It’s become my weekend go to. The cotton spandex fabric is thicker than a standard t-shirt knit, so it’s surprisingly warm, but still breathable. Over summer, I wore it with 3/4-length white leggings, and now that the weather’s cooling, I’ve been layering it with a long-sleeved top underneath and pairing it with jeans. It’s just that kind of garment—low effort, maximum comfort.
The V neckline (aka the stripe matching victory!)
If there was one tricky part of this garment, it was definitely the neckline. I had to unpick and resew it a couple of times to get the striped fabric to align properly and look good but that’s sewing, right? Sometimes you need to backtrack to get the result you want.
I appreciated the diagram on the instructions which helped me visualise how to attach the neckline correctly. Then it was a case of wiggling the stripes to go where I wanted them. That’s one of joys of stretch fabric. When it came together—when those stripes lined up perfectly for the entire V—it was incredibly satisfying and absolutely worth the effort.
White the V at the bottom isn’t absolutely perfect, it is close enough for me. I was worried too much unpicking and redoing might damage the fabric so I satisficed.
Satisficed: A cross between sufficing and being satisfied. A very useful term in sewing!
The pocket
The pattern has a pocket placed on the top left, just below the V neckline. Somehow mine ended up on the right hand side. I guess I was so focussed on matching up the stripes, I didn’t pay enough attention to the pocket instructions.
In retrospect, I should have sewn the top edge of the pocket down before attaching the pocket to the front. Stretch knit fabric has a tendency to curl and sewing it down would have prevented this. It doesn’t bother me much. In fact, I’ve been tempted to remove the pocket. I’m not going to though as I don’t want to damage the fabric in the process and ruin what has become one of my favourite garments.
A funny story
I sent one of my best friends a photo of me wearing the Richie Tunic Dress after I finished it. She said: “I dare you to put something in that pocket and walk around in public, preferably a hand.”
Her point was the pocket serves no practical purpose. It is just a style addition.
With the striped fabric or any pattern-matched design/print, the pocket is hardly noticeable and the garment would look perfectly fine without it. A plain-coloured fabric could benefit from the pocket (especially if it is a contrast colour or print). It does draw the eye to the chest though so if you are self conscious about your bust, it might be best to leave off the pocket.
Pattern Instructions and Sewing Experience
I’ve read mixed reviews about Style Arc pattern instructions, with some sewists finding them a bit limited, especially for beginners. I didn’t have any problems following the instructions for the Richie Tunic Dress.
I used my Babylock Victory overlockerfor nearly the whole project (except the neckline which I did on my Janome Skyline S 7 using a walking foot) until I was happy with how it looked, then I overlocked to tidy the edges. Overlocking made it a quick sew and gave a neat finish. If you’ve sewn a few knit garments before, you’ll likely be fine making this pattern.
Now, a quick note about stripes. I know not everyone feels comfortable wearing them, especially horizontal stripes and especially for plus sizes. I used to hesitate too but I’m wearing this plus size tunic dress because I love it. It’s comfy and it fits well and I feel good in it and that’s what matters most.
Final Verdict
The Style Arc Richie Tunic Dress is a winner in my book. If you’re looking for a pattern to use with cotton spandex fabric, striped or not, this is a great option. It is comfy and easy to wear. It is a no frills, no fuss, straight up sew that, for me, worked straight out of the envelope (or PDF folder) which is kind of rate for plus size sewing.
Would I sew it again? Absolutely. I’ve got enough of the striped knit fabric left to make a second version or I might make two – stripes front and plain blue on the back as suggested by a good friend of mine or the other way around and I’m already looking forward to it.
If you’re after a no-fuss, pull-it-on-and-go tunic that works for a plus size frame, the Richie Tunic Dress might be just what you’re after.
Let me know in a comment if you’ve made one before, if you plan to make one or if you’re currently making one. If you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them.
I went looking for a plus size dress form and I think the Bootstrap Fashion dress form might be my best option. Read on to see what I discovered.
Battle of the plus size dress forms
I need to be honest with you. I do not own a dress form … yet.
As I have said in a previous post, a truly plus size dress form is difficult to come by. Not to mention the cost. Even more frustrating, the ones I’ve seen online do not come in my size. I didn’t think I was “too big” but it seems I might be. I know ladies bigger than me so I’m not the only one having this struggle.
My body measurements
Okay, so in the interests of being totally transparent, here are my measurements:
Bust 53”
Waist 50″
Hips 56″
Yes, I’m an hourglass shape.
Most people when they think of dress forms think of the adjustable commercially available dress form. I’ve tried one of these so-called “plus size” adjustable dress forms before but expanding to its maximum capacity wasn’t a good idea. It broke. Fortunately, the store owner who let me try it didn’t charge me for it.
I’m not one to easily give up so I decided to do a deep dive into the internet to see what I could find.
Are these really plus size dress forms?
Supafit dress form
One of the first to pop up in my search for a plus size dress form was the Supafit full figure dress form. It has a maximum 53” bust. The maximum waist is 46” and hip is 55”.
The name Supafit made me think of Superman or maybe Superwoman … Wonder Woman perhaps? Actually, a plus size Wonder Woman with my measurements doesn’t look too bad. Using the word “super” (or even the misspelled “supa”) when referring to size is a bit of an insult though don’t you think?
Mannequin Madness
Mannequin Madness plus size dress forms seem to go up to size 18/20 and that is bust 46″, waist 36″ and hip 47″. Way too small for me.
On the Dress Forms USA website, I typed “plus size” into the search tool and the result was: “Sorry, no results.” Fair enough. At least they apologised! Looking at their professional models, a female dress form in size 20 (the largest they offer) has bust size 47”, waist 40.5” (the 0.5 makes all the difference!) and hips 48”. Nowhere near my 60”. Their male dress forms weren’t much better with 48” chest, 42” waist and 49” hip. Would I buy a male dress form anyway? No!
At this point, I gave up. Well, not quite. I haven’t lost all hope. One option which I’m finding attractive is the Bootstrap Fashion dress form. During my deep dive investigation, Bootstrap Fashion came up repeatedly. Most people who had made one seemed happy with it. I saw many photos of women hugging their Bootstrap Fashion dress form and smiling. What I noticed was the dress forms really were very similar sizes to the women standing next to them.
What’s in a name
The first time someone mentioned Bootstrap Fashion to me, the only thing I could think about was boot laces. I had to ask them to repeat themselves several times. Eventually they said “just look it up” so I did and now I’m even more curious.
I was (and still am) impressed. In case you’re not familiar with it, Bootstrap Fashion is an American company (based on California) that creates custom-fit dress forms. The process allows you to submit your measurements online, choose your tummy protuberance, buttocks shape, posture and shoulder slope. Best of all, their maximum measurements were well within range for me.
Bootstrap Fashion founder Yulia Raquel
The brand was born when co-founder Yuliya Raquel had trouble finding clothing for her full-figured mother. She started making high-end, designer, fashion-forward clothing selling under the brand Igigi. However, the tools to make these clothes, such as a dress form, were lacking. That’s how Bootstrap Fashion was born. If you cannot find what you need, make it yourself, right?
Even better, the cost is only US$28 (that’s about $50 New Zealand dollars as at 1 April 2025). Yeah, it does still seem a little costly but it’s better than the price of those supposedly plus size dress forms mentioned above that don’t extend to the size you need.
Bootstrap Fashion creates more than just dress forms
Slopers explained
Bootstrap also creates slopers from which you can develop your own creations as well as pre-designed clothing patterns you can buy customised to your measurements and shape.
SLOPER – a sloper (also called a block or foundation pattern) is a basic pattern that serves as the foundation for creating other garment patterns. It’s essentially a template of the body, without seam allowances or design elements, allowing you to easily draft and adjust patterns for various garments.
Going back to Bootstrap Fashion dress forms, I’m excited. This is an option to sew a pattern to create a dress form that replicates your body as accurately as possible.
I’m not quite ready to buy, I need to talk to a few people who have made one. I’ve heard there are tricky parts and it can take time to put together. I’m definitely intrigued though.
Why choose Bootstrap Fashion dress form?
Many sewists struggle with finding a dress form that accurately represents their body shape.
Commercial dress forms come in limited size ranges and fail to accommodate bigger and unique proportions.
The Bootstrap Fashion dress form allows you to create a true-to-size replica of your body shape
Bootstrap Fashion dress forms avoid high costs associated with professional dress forms (which may not be the right size anyway)
Enhance sewing accuracy by draping and fitting garments on a perfectly proportioned model of yourself.
What you need to make a Bootstrap Fashion dress form
Main (woven, not stretchy) fabric
Fusible woven interfacing
Interlining/stabiliser
Cardboard
Sponge
Zipper
Craft glue
Razor knife
Wooden, plastic or metal coat stand (or dress form stand)
Plastic pipe tube
Polyester fibre fill
Some of the negative factors of Bootstrap Fashion dress form
Time-consuming – requires patience and careful sewing
Stuffing can be tricky – needs even distribution to maintain shape
Durability depends on materials used – a poorly reinforced form may not last as long as a commercial version.
A good friend invited me to her wedding a couple of years ago and I heard myself asking that age-old question: “What am I going to wear?” Seriously, my wardrobe consists of black pants and coloured tops that I wear to work and jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts that I wear at home. I have a couple of dresses but the last one I wore (to my cousin’s wedding about 15 years ago) no longer fits!
The inspiration
I tried to see this as an opportunity and I started watching other ladies to see what they were wearing. It didn’t take me long to notice a dress a colleague of mine had worn a few times. It has as black base with a pink and cream floral print on chiffon. It has three tiers in the skirt, a v neckline and side ties that thread across the front under the bust and similarly at the back. It looked great on her and I envisaged myself wearing something similar.
My friend’s dress that was the inspiration for a dress I wore to another friend’s wedding.
After seeing her wearing it a few times, I couldn’t resist asking if I could borrow it to see if I could make a pattern from it. The idea of creating my version of the dress excited me yet it wasn’t without its challenges. However, challenges are part of the fun of sewing aren’t they?
Finding the right pattern
Given I had a deadline (my friend’s wedding) and having inspected how my friend’s dress was put together, I decided it would be a lot easier to make a dress from scratch rather than trying to make the pattern first and then make the dress. I wanted something with the same floaty, feminine look as my friends and something which could be made from chiffon like hers.
Near the start of my search, I found the Style Arc Naomi dress pattern by Style Arc. It was the closest I could find that replicated the top part of the dress nearly exactly like my friend’s dress. I kept it in mind as I spent days, weeks even, searching for a pattern online and in fabric shops. Once my sewing friends and tutor got wind of what I was looking for, they all offered suggestions but none were quite right.
Of course the date of the wedding was getting closer. Rather than wasting time or giving up, I decided to go with the Naomi dress and see if I could adapt it to replicate the tiers in my friend’s dress.
My friend kindly said I could loan her dress if things turned to custard as I was making my own. She must know the struggles sewists have perfecting garments, especially under time pressure.
Choosing the fabric
While looking for patterns, I had also searched for fabric. I found a jade green chiffon with cream flowers tucked in a corner at my local fabric shop. I don’t typically go for floral prints so I initially rejected it. Actually, I wasn’t really sure if the colour suited me. I pushed this away to the back of the shelf just in case I wanted to return to it. There wasn’t much on the roll and if it turned out to be my only option, I didn’t want to lose it.
The fabric I chose for my dress – jade-green with cream flowers
I took two or three 150km (two-hour) road trips to Christchurch, the nearest city to my home, trawling through the fabric stores there and I looked online but my mind kept going back to the fabric I had seen locally.
Visiting the store during my lunch break, I pulled the roll of fabric from the place I had hidden it and asked the store owner to measure it for me. It was just enough to make the Naomi dress pattern but not enough to add tiers like my friend’s dress. I put it back on the shelf and kept looking.
A few days later, just two weeks before the wedding and still without fabric, I decided the jade green chiffon floral was the best option. I bought it during a sewing class at the store and my sewing friends loved it. One even said she was jealous because she had seen it and thought about buying it but I had beaten her to it. It must have been her that hid it in the back of the shelf where I found it.
Unfortunately I cannot find this exact fabric but you can buy similar fabric.
The Naomi dress pattern came together quite quickly. I have to admit, I was a little nervous, wondering if things would turn out the way I wanted or if I’d end up with something I couldn’t wear. Thank goodness my friend had said I could wear her dress if I wanted to but I was determined to make mine work.
The tricky part came when it was time to make the cords that thread through the front and back of the dress and cinch in under the bust. They were sewn inside out and were so narrow, it was difficult to pull them back in the right way.
My dress had a v-neckline and the front cord casing came up from the sides on an angle to cinch in under the bust.
Furthermore, the cord casing required small holes at either end for the cord to poke through – four holes. If you have ever sewn with chiffon, you know it is a delicate task. The fabric tends to slip and slide around and those holes were tricky! I spent more time than I would have liked jiggling the cords into place. Thank goodness I had help from my sewing tutor and the owner of the fabric store got involved too.
There was one change I made from the Naomi dress pattern. I decided not to have the side splits. In retrospect, I may also shorten it a bit.
Finally, the night before the wedding, the dress began to look and feel like something which I could wear with pride. I stayed up late putting elastic in the sleeve cuffs, finishing the hem with a rolled edge on the overlocker and putting some metal stays on the ends of the cords.
Wearing it with pride
What I loved most about sewing this dress, beyond the process, was how it made me feel when I wore it for the first time. I had made it with my friend’s wedding in mind, knowing I could wear something beautiful for her special day.
When I put it on and looked in the mirror, I saw something more than just a dress. I saw an accomplishment and a reflection of my growing skills. When I walked into the wedding venue, I felt proud of what I had created.
The ties at the side of the dress were kept in place with little metal keepers.
To my surprise, I wasn’t the only one who thought my dress looked great. While mingling at the wedding, I noticed a few younger girls eyeing my dress. Many were wearing similar styles – with or without tiers. I don’t know for sure what they were thinking but I chose to believe they were admiring my dress.
I have to admit I felt a little self conscious as many of the girls were much slimmer than me but I reminded myself the dress was beautiful because I had made it with care and had put love into it.
Looking ahead
Now I’ve worn the dress a few times (even to work) and received compliments on it, I feel inspired to make more. I think I would definitely use the same pattern again but next time I might add the tiers. I think I would also change the fabric to something with a little more drape like a rayon print, even another floral!
Lessons learned
What I’ve learned from this process is that stepping out of your comfort zone can lead to incredible results. I never imagined I would be sewing a dress – something so different to what I normally wear – but it has opened my eyes to a world of possibilities.
The long length is something I might change.
While my friend’s wedding was the perfect excuse to make something special, I’ve realised I don’t have to wait for a similar occasion to wear a beautiful dress. I feel more confident in my ability to create garments that not only fit well but reflect my own style and creativity.
My advice to other plus size sewists
If you are thinking about sewing a dress for the first time, go for it! You might surprise yourself with what you can accomplish and how it makes you feel. The satisfaction of creating something with your own hands is unmatched. Whether it is a simple design or something more complex, just enjoy the process and take your time. With a little patience and a lot of passion, you can create a piece that is truly your own.
An extra little story
When I met my friend, she had recently split up from her husband of many years. I had recently separated from my husband too. I was introduced to my friend by some ladies who cared about us both. It turned out my friend lived just around the corner from me and worked (as a fabric technology teacher) at the high school next door to my house. After years not sewing, I decided it was a good time to brush up on my skills with my friend’s help.
At the time, as we had both shared our relationship experiences, my friend told me she would probably not marry again. Years passed and eventually my friend moved to another town (not too far away). She remained single then one night she gave me a call to have a “catch up chat”.
As the conversation was coming to a close she suddenly said: “Oh, guess what?”
“What?” I said.
“I’m engaged!” she said.
I was surprised, yet delighted and made sure my friend knew I wanted an invitation to her wedding.
The next time I went to my sewing class, I shared the news with my friends and the tutor, who took a particular interest. She had a little glint in her eye as she told me my friend was marrying her twin brother! She said she had known for several weeks and had to keep it a secret from me!
At the wedding, it was lovely knowing my friend and sewing tutor had just become sisters-in-law. Even lovelier knowing my tutor helped me sew the dress I wore to my friend’s wedding.
Another occasion to wear my dress
On 8 April 2025, I am attending a VIP night at the store where I bought the fabric for my Naomi dress pattern and where I attend sewing classes. The owner is celebrating 20 years at the helm of the business.
As part of the VIP night, customers have been invited to “catwalk” in garments they have created using at least 50 per cent fabric/materials from the store.
I have decided to wear my dress on the “catwalk”!
There is a prize for “people’s choice”. Other attendees at the VIP event will choose who will win.
There is also a competition to win a new sewing machine – spend at least $20 on the night to go in the draw.
Check back here soon and I will report on how it goes.
If you can’t find a dress form in your size, making your own is a fantastic alternative. The duct tape method is one of the most affordable and effective ways to create a dress form that mirrors your body perfectly.
This post may include affiliate links, meaning if you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission, but it will not cost you any more than the normal price. This helps me continue to provide quality content on this website.
Materials You’ll Need:(Keep weight in mind when choosing your materials)
If you love sewing, a dress form can be a game-changer in your creative process. Dress forms are one of the most valuable investments for any sewist, especially for those making garments that require precise fitting.
Whether you are adjusting a commercial pattern, draping fabric, or simply checking the fit of a garment before stitching, a dress form acts as your personal sewing assistant. However, finding the right one—especially for plus-size sewing—can be a challenge.
In this guide, we will explore everything you need to know about dress forms, including uses, types, what stage in your sewing journey you should consider buying a dress form, things to consider before buying, how to care for your dress form and reasons you may not even need a dress form.
Dress form shown at various angles isolated on white
What is a dress form?
A dress form is a three-dimensional replica of the human body used to drape fabric to create personally-designed clothing and check fit. A dress form makes it easier to construct and alter clothing. Unlike a store mannequin, which is mainly for display, a dress form is specifically designed for garment fitting and pattern making. Dress forms come in various sizes, styles and materials and they can be adjustable, single-size or custom made to fit your exact measurements.
Why use a dress form?
Using a dress form can significantly improve your sewing experience:
Better fitting: Adjusting and pinning garments on a dress form that replicates your body measurements is easier than doing so on your own body and avoids the minor pain of having pins stuck into your skin.
Efficient pattern adjustments: A dress form will help if you want to modify commercial patterns for a better personal fit, especially if the pattern size range does not include your measurements.
Draping and designing: Use a dress form to create new designs by directly shaping fabric on the form. Draping also allows you to see how your fabric will behave once sewn. This is especially useful when working with challenging fabrics or intricate designs.
Faster alterations: A dress form can drastically speed up the sewing process. With accurate fitting from the start, you will not waste time making alterations.
Showcasing garments: If you sell or photograph your work, a dress form provides a polished display.
Confidence in your work: When your dress form reflects your body exactly, you can sew with confidence, knowing the garments you create will fit well and flatter your shape. This is particularly empowering for plus-size sewists, who often struggle to find off-the-rack clothing that fits properly.
An adjustable tailor’s dress form
Types of dress forms
When shopping for a dress form, you will find different types. Here are the most common ones:
1. Adjustable dress forms
These dress forms have dials or sliders that allow you to customize the size, making them great for those whose measurements fall between standard sizes. Adjustability makes a dress form a versatile option for sewists who work with different body sizes and are not only sewing for themselves.
Pros: Customisable, good for multiple sizes, relatively affordable.
Cons: Some may not expand enough for plus-size bodies. Adjusting for different sizes can be time-consuming.
2. Standard (fixed-size) dress forms
These forms are made in a single size and are often more durable than adjustable ones. They work well if you consistently sew for yourself and do not need size adjustments.
Pros: Sturdier, often more realistic in shape.
Cons: Limited to one size. Can be expensive if custom fit.
3. Metal frame dress forms
Metal frame forms are useful for aesthetic purposes. People who sew clothes for markets or shops often use a metal frame dress form to display their garments. These kinds of dress forms do not have the versatility needed for garment fitting, fabric draping and pattern making and certainly cannot be adjusted for different body types.
Pros: They are pretty to look at and sturdy enough to hang heavy garments.
Cons: Heavy, inflexible and awkward to move around.
Store mannequins are often not realistic body shapes
4. Mannequins
A mannequin is also used for display purposes in shops. Often these are full body models sometimes made from plastic, wood or polystyrene. Some have removable limbs. They are not useful for dressmaking because they are rigid, non-adjustable, often unrealistic body shapes and unsuitable for pinning, draping or fitting.
5. Professional dress forms
High-end dress forms, often used by fashion designers and tailors, have a padded foam surface allowing for easy pinning. Some are collapsible or have wheels for mobility.
Pros: Extremely durable, realistic shaping, great for pinning fabric.
Cons: Expensive. Not usually available in plus sizes.
You can use duct tape to make a dress form which replicates your body.
6. DIY Dress Forms
For plus-size sewists, finding a dress form that truly represents their shape can be difficult. Many off-the-rack dress forms max out at smaller sizes, leaving curvier sewists without a good option. A possible solution is to add padding to make a smaller dress form to better reflect your body. However, a better option is to make your own. There are two options – create your own mould of your body or send away your measurements and receive a pattern to make a dress form which matches your shape.
Pros: Perfectly matches your body. Budget-friendly. Fun to make.
Cons: Requires time and effort. May not be as durable as store-bought models. Not easy to change if your body shape or size changes.
Laser scanning and cameras can be used to made a 3D replica of a body.
7. Custom made dress forms
3D body scanning is an exciting technology used to create a custom-made dress form which ensures a perfect fit. Whether you are a plus-size sewist or someone with unique proportions, this personalised approach eliminates the need for adjustments during fitting.
Pros: Perfectly matches your body whatever shape or size it is.
Cons: Not available in all countries. Can be expensive.
Dressmaker makes adjustments.
8. A fit buddy
A fit buddy is a fellow sewist who can check the fit of your garments and pin for adjustments while you wear it. This is especially useful if you cannot find a dress form in your size. A fit buddy can also provide feedback on fabric drape and movement, and overall look.
Pros: Useful if you do not have a correctly sized dress form. Can be a fun and social way to sew with a friend.
Cons: Scheduling time with a fit buddy may not always be convenient.
When to buy a dress form
A dress form becomes an important tool at different stages of a sewist’s journey, depending on their skills, goals and sewing preferences. Here are key milestones where investing in a dress form might be beneficial:
1. When first starting out
When trying on clothing you are sewing for yourself, undressing, dressing and redressing can be tiresome. If a sewist finds it difficult to pin, adjust or visualise garments while working on a flat surface, a dress form can speed up the process. It allows for easier hemming and ensures good seam placement. It is also helpful if you are a little self-conscious in your skin.
2. Moving on from basic garment construction skills
Once a sewist has mastered basic garment construction, they may wish to buy a dress form to refine their fitting skills. If a sewist is moving beyond sewing with flat patterns and experimenting with adding their own features, a dress form can provide a stable structure for shaping designs.
Plus size dress forms are difficult to find but very helpful in dressmaking.
3. Sewing for plus sizes
A dress form is particularly useful for plus-size sewists who struggle with inconsistent pattern sizing and need to make alterations to fit. Adding inches to pattern pieces is possible on a flat surface but a dress form is especially useful to modify commercial patterns that do not feature plus sizes.
4. Sewing for others or professionally
If a sewist is working on commission, making costumes or sewing for clients, a dress form helps with fittings when the wearer is not present. A custom-padded or adjustable dress form can replicate different body shapes for different clients, allowing for more accurate alterations.
5. Learning draping techniques
If a sewist is interested in creating their own original designs, a dress form is essential for draping (manipulating fabric on a form). Transitioning from commercial patterns to custom-made clothing requires adding interesting details like pleats or ruching.
Red carpet coutre gown and tailored suit.
6. Making tailored garments
Tailoring is the art of creating high-end fashion such as premium suits and exquisite red-carpet coutre, wedding gowns, special occasion wear and one-off unique pieces that are impeccably made. Skilled tailors refine silhouettes, ensuring clothing flatters the wearer. Tailoring goes beyond using patterns or transforming off-the-rack pieces and instead personalises fashion, emphasising craftsmanship, detail and individuality.
Why you might NOT need a dress form
Rushing into a purchase is never a good idea. Because there are so many different dress form options, there is a lot to think about before you buy one. It is better to wait until you have found the perfect option for you rather than stretching your budget to buy something with features you do not use enough to justify the cost. There are several reasons a sewist might not need a dress form.
Finding the right size dress form can be difficult if you are plus size.
Personal Fit Limitations – Most commercial dress forms do not accurately represent real body shapes, especially for plus-size individuals. Padding and alterations can help, but they may not fully replicate personal measurements.
Flat Pattern Adjustments – Many sewists successfully alter patterns using flat pattern methods, such as full bust adjustments (FBAs) and slash-and-spread techniques, without needing a dress form.
Fitting on the Body – Some prefer to fit garments directly on themselves or a willing model. Mirror setups or photos can help with checking fit.
Cost and Storage – Dress forms can be expensive and take up significant space. Budget constraints are another consideration.
Limited Use for Some Projects – If a sewist primarily makes loose-fitting clothing or garments with significant stretch, a dress form may not be essential.
Alternative Methods – Many sewists use draping techniques directly on themselves or create a custom duct tape or paper tape form as a budget-friendly alternative.
Things to consider before investing in a dress form
If you are still developing your skills and primarily sew loose-fitting or stretchy knit garments, you may not need a dress form right away. However, once you reach a point where accurate fitting and shaping become priorities, investing in one—or making a DIY custom form—can be a game-changer.
If you decide you do need a dress form and you are ready to buy one, there are several things to think about to ensure the one you buy aligns with your needs and helps improve your sewing experience rather than being disappointed. Here are the key things to consider before making the investment.
1. Adjustability
Adjustable dress forms are versatile tools that allow you to modify the bust, waist, and hip measurements. Adjustability can be especially helpful for sewists who are not only sewing for themselves because they can be adjusted to fit to the measurements of others. Look for a dress form with dial or slider adjustments or one that offers some other kind of ability to change the shape.
Tip: Make sure adjustments can be made easily without tools, especially if you plan on altering garments frequently.
2. Body Measurements
The primary purpose of a dress form is to replicate your body’s shape and size. You need to take accurate body measurements, including upper bust, full bust, waist and hips and ensure the dress form can match them. This is particularly important if you or those for whom you are sewing are plus size.
Tip: Check whether the dress form allows for easy adjustment in key areas like the waist or bust to match your measurements.
A dress form at the wrong height.
3. Height
A dress form with adjustable height helps to reduce strain on your back and ensures you work in a comfortable position. This feature is especially useful for taller or shorter sewists who may need a height adjustment to match their body proportions. It is also useful if you are working on a project for a long time, perhaps if you are pulling an all-nighter to meet a deadline for a client, fashion show or competition. Any plus size sewist would tell you being on your feet all day or even standing up and sitting down between dress form and machine can be painful.
Tip: Check whether the dress form can lock securely at your preferred height.
4. Materials and durability
The material used for the dress form will affect its longevity and usability. Common materials include foam, fabric, wood, fibreglass, polystyrene and metal. Foam-covered dress forms tend to be lightweight and affordable. You can easily pin fabric to them if intending to design your own pieces. However, fabric-covered or polystyrene dress forms can offer more realistic draping. Choose a material that suits your sewing style and durability needs.
Tip: If you frequently sew heavy fabrics like wool or denim, opt for a sturdier dress form with a more solid structure to cope with the weight.
5. Portability
Consider whether you need a dress form that is easy to move around. Some forms come with a base on wheels for better mobility, while others are stationary. Portability is important if you frequently take your dress form to sewing classes, workshops, events or client’s homes. Lightweight and collapsible options are best for sewists who need to move frequently.
Tip: Look for a dress form with a stable base and lightweight construction if portability is important to you.
6. Type of dress form
Consider whether an adjustable dress form is necessary or if a fixed-size form will meet your needs. Think about whether your projects will involve draping and pattern making, as this may influence your choice. If a dress form in your size is not available, a custom-made one might be the best solution or you could try making your own or find a fit buddy. If the dress form is only to hang clothes for display, a metal form or mannequin will do.
Make sure you have somewhere to store your dress form when not in use.
7. Storage
If space is limited in your sewing room or studio, consider how easy it will be to store your dress form. One of the worst things in a small sewing room is having your tools get in the way. Having an easy to store dress form ensures it will not take up valuable space when you are not using it. Conversely, having to pack away and unpack the dress form every time you need to use it can be annoying and time consuming.
Tip: Look for a dress form that will fit your space and not just your clothes.
8. Special features
Some dress forms come with additional features such as removable and washable covers, adjustable necklines or extra padding for adding shape. This added padding does not always mean a small dress form can be made into a plus size dress form. If you are buying from a retail outlet, ask if you try out the dress form in the store to see if it suits your needs. At the very least, ask for a demonstration and take notes, especially if the demonstrator is struggling with the product. Ensure the demonstration includes all the features of the dress form.
Tip: Before buying a dress form, test its adjustability. Some features may sound great on paper but can be tricky in practice.
You don’t have to spend a lot of money to have a dress form that works for you.
9. Price and budget
Dress forms come in a wide range of prices and of course this is something to consider but not to the neglect of other factors. While cheaper forms may be tempting, they may lack the customisation options you need, such as full adjustability or accurate body representation. It is better to spend a bit more to ensure your dress form has all the features you need. If you are just starting out using a dress form, you may find a cheaper option or a home-made dress form is best to try out first to see how much you use it (or not).
Tip: Compare the price and features of different dress forms to find a balance between affordability and functionality.
Caring for your dress form
To keep your dress form in great condition:
Store it in a cool, dry place to prevent mildew or rust.
Do not leave fabric draped on the dress form for long periods or it may leave impressions in the fabric.
If using an adjustable dress form, be gentle with the dials and do not adjust beyond the form’s capability.
If you have a DIY or homemade dress form, reinforce with extra tape, foam or stuffing over time.
Handle with care. Do not lean on or put excessive weight on the dress form.
Do not let children play with your dress form.
If using pins, avoid leaving them stuck in the form for long periods to prevent fabric damage or rust stains. Avoid excessive pinning so your dress form does not become covered in holes.
If you add padding to customise the form, make sure it is secured properly to avoid shifting.
Avoid placing your dress form near heaters or fireplaces as extreme temperatures can warp parts, dry out fabric or even cause your dress form to catch fire.
If not in use for a while, disassemble (if possible) and store in a cool, dry place.
Always cover your dress form when not in use to keep dust off. Remove and wash covers regularly. Use a lint roller to remove dust if necessary.
Regularly inspect the stand and base to ensure screws are tightened to prevent wobbling or tipping over. Clean hard parts with a damp cloth.
Avoid direct sunlight, especially if your form is made of foam or has a fabric cover so it does not fade or deteriorate.
Keep away from cats and dogs. Pets might be tempted to scratch, chew or rub against the form and they may get hurt if it topples on them.
If you find yourself getting down about being plus size, take a look at these positive affirmations which are sure to give you a lift and help you get back into your sewing.
✂️ I have the power to create clothing that fits me beautifully.
✂️ Every stitch I sew is an act of self-love and confidence.
✂️ I deserve clothes that fit perfectly, feel comfortable, and make me shine.
✂️ My body is unique, and I celebrate it by making garments just for me.
✂️ Sewing allows me to express my creativity and personal style.
✂️ I am skilled, resourceful, and capable of bringing my sewing visions to life.
✂️ I embrace my curves, and I sew to celebrate them—not hide them.
✂️ There is no ‘wrong’ body, only patterns that need adjusting.
✂️ I am not limited by store sizes—I can sew clothes that truly fit me.
✂️ Sewing gives me the freedom to wear exactly what makes me feel amazing.
✂️ I am worthy of high-quality fabrics and patterns that bring me joy.
✂️ I do not have to settle for ill-fitting clothes—I can make something better.
✂️ Every project teaches me something new, and I am proud of my progress.
✂️ I trust my sewing skills and am always learning and improving.
✂️ I am allowed to take up space, and my fashion choices reflect my confidence.
✂️ My handmade wardrobe is a reflection of my personality and beauty.
✂️ I love my body, and I create clothes that make me feel empowered.
✂️ Sewing is my superpower—I turn fabric into fashion that fits me perfectly.
✂️ I deserve to feel fabulous in everything I wear.
✂️ I am more than my measurements—I am a maker, a creator, and an artist.
💖 Keep these affirmations nearby as a reminder that sewing is not just about fabric and stitches—it’s about celebrating yourself and your creativity! Happy sewing! ✨
Do you “sewcrastinate’ like I do? What is holding you back from making the garment you’re dreaming about.
What is sewcrastination?
Sewcrastination is the term I use for when I am between projects. I’ve just finished one and I have so many ideas and fabrics but I just don’t know what to start next so I sewcrastinate. You know what I mean. It’s like procrastination only it’s about sewing so its sewcrastination.
My dressmaking class started for the new year last week. I am always really excited to get started after eight plus weeks away from the class during the Christmas/New Year holidays but sewcrastination seems to happen for every first week of every new term and this one last week was no exception.
Instead of getting organised to start sewing something new, I spent the entire class overlocking seams, hemming and finishing sleeve cuffs on a Style Arc Nina Swing Cardigan I sewed in the last class of last year. I was sewcrastinating.
It’s not like I don’t have enough fabric or patterns. In fact, I have three garment patterns in my current list of things to sew and two craft projects. Which one do I do first?
I can narrow it down and say I should choose a garment to sew at dressmaking class and leave the craft projects for home sewing.
The second dressmaking class in the eight-week term is tomorrow. If I don’t decide what to sew soon, I’m going to see a term go by and I’ll have achieved nothing due to my constant sewcrastinating.
Please help me decide
Here are the patterns on my “to sew” list.
Daisy designer pants
This is a Style Arc pattern. I’ve made a few Style Arc patterns in the last year or so. My most recent Style Arc project was the Daisy Designer Tunic.
Yes, the tunic and pants were sold as a pair and I got a dress pattern as a freebie.
I even bought some linen/cotton blend fabric to make the Daisy Designer Pants. So why am I proscrastinating?
To toile or not to toile – that is the question
I guess it’s because I love the fabric so much, I’m nervous to cut into it in case I make a mistake. With the tunic, I made a toile first
Toile is French for “cloth”. In English, it is pronounced “twaal”. It is a trial version of a garment made from inexpensive fabric and sewn to ensure proper fit before cutting into the more expensive fabric.
I made a toile from some curtain fabric before making the Daisy Designer Tunic and I’m glad I did because the size I had chosen to make was too big. Even the garment I eventually made is a little too big but I still wear it. (I love it when garments I make turn out to be too big!)
Why don’t I just go ahead and make the toile first? I guess I could but I really want to just cut into the good fabric and get started on the actual garment. Making a toile first seems like such a waste of time. So while I’m wavering between toile or no toile, I sewcrastinate.
All in Easy Fit Shirt
This is a Pattern Emporium pattern. I’ve not made anything with a pattern emporium pattern before, even though I have bought one previously – the Meet you There dress. I’ve been sewcrastinating over that one too!
For the All in Easy Fit Shirt, I have some fabric which I bought to make a skirt but I don’t think I have enough of it to achieve that. It was early in my sewing journey and I was still buying fabric willy nilly just because I liked it, not because I had a pattern which was suitable to make with the fabric.
Actually, I know I don’t have enough to make a skirt with it. I do have enough to make the All In Easy Fit Shirt but should I or might some other project come along that will suit the fabric better?
Sloane Woven Jacket
Another Style Arc pattern. Style Arc really does have me wrapped around its little finger. It has so many patterns and I know they have my size. Like I said for the Daisy Designer Tunic, choosing a size can be a little tricky.
The Sloane Woven Jacket is a little more challenging than other Style Arc patterns I’ve made so far. Perhaps that is why I am sewcrastinating over it.
I have some beautiful black ponte knit fabric with flocked velvet roses. I’ve been dreaming of making a blazer with the fabric since I bought it (another one of those “oooo I love that fabric, I’ll buy it and hope the right pattern comes along”. I don’t know if the amount of fabric I have is enough to make the jacket, possibly not. Sewcrastination prevents me getting it out to have a look.
I do have some navy tencel fabric set aside at the Timaru Sewing Centre which would be perfect for it but I’d like to make the jacket, shirt and pants to all go together and it wouldn’t if there was charcoal pants, tencel jacket and cotton shirt – three different types of fabric and three different colours.
The other sewcrastination factor with the tencel is that I haven’t bought it yet and it is recommended to wash fabric before sewing it so you pre-shrink it. It avoids the annoyance of sewing a perfectly fitting garment from unwashed fabric, then washing it and finding the garment no longer fits due to shrinkage.
Tell me what you’d do
Please tell me what you’d do – the pants, the shirt or the jacket? Leave a comment on this post and help me decide. I’ll let you know tomorrow after I’ve spent another dressmaking class sewcrastinating.
I’m excited to share some of the plus-size clothing I’ve sewn for myself, starting with the Rebecca Page Toronto Tee and Burda Style 7505 pants patterns. As a plus-size sewist, finding the right patterns that flatter my body and make me feel confident is key — and these two pieces are no exception! I made the Toronto Tee with a gorgeous red textured fabric and paired it with linen Burda 7505 pants. In this post, I’ll walk you through my sewing experience and my thoughts on these patterns.
My uncle, Robert Smith, from Gore in New Zealand was in Timaru recently. He loves taking photos so I asked him to take some of me wearing clothes I had made. It took several hours and I was surprised by how many garments I had made in the past six years that I have been sewing my own clothes.
My Burda style 7505 pants in natural-coloured linen
I love linen pants. They are so soft and flowy and great for hot weather.
I can’t remember where I got the linen with which I made these pants. It is a little transparent and quite slubby.
If a fabric is “slubby” it has a texture which is uneven, with some thicker areas or “knobbles” in the weave which are sometimes created intentionally for an organic, tactile look or occur naturally in some natural fibres.
What pattern did I use?
The Burda style pattern I used to make my linen pants.
When I first started sewing my own clothes, I hadn’t yet discovered online pattern designers so I tried to use commercial patterns because that was all I knew. I struggled to find patterns with a plus size fit but this Burda style 7505 pattern looked promising.
The first pair I made (teal linen) and this natural-coloured linen pair were made using size 28 which is for 43.5 inch waist and 52.75 inch hips. They fitted really well at the time I made them but now they’re a little tight, especially in the hips.
I have since made another pair using the largest size in this pattern (size 34) for a 50.5 inch waist and 60 inch hips which is more accurate with my actual body measurements. It is much more comfortable to wear.
While this pattern would still fit me, I have started looking for other options for pants of different styles.
My t-shirt made using Rebecca Page Toronto Tee pattern
Rebecca Page Toronto Tee sewing pattern
I got this Rebecca Page pattern in a bundle of different garments. Unfortunately, the Rebecca Page website is no longer available. I’ve tried to find Rebecca Page patterns elsewhere but it seems they have simply disappeared. I do not know why. There is some information on the Internet that Rebecca Page simply shut down with no warning to customers. I’m glad I got a bunch of patterns from this supplier though as it had a good plus-size range.
I used size 4XL which the pattern says is for a 124.5-129.5cm chest and 132-137cm hips. My waist actually came in at the next size up (5XL for 119-127cm waist) but I ignored this as I figured if the hip size was bigger, it would just “flow” over my waist.
The finished garment measurements were then in inches. For size 4XL, the chest finished garment measurement was 58.2 inches, waist 60 inches and hip 66 inches. I found this was far too big for me. Given my measurements at the time I made the t-shirt, I could have gone down two sizes.
However, the pattern style was such that it was easy enough to shave off the excess from each side using my Babylock Victory overlocker. (NOT an affiliate link)
I got this red textured fabric from Fabric Vision in Christchurch. Unfortunately, that shop has closed down which is a real shame as I used to love shopping there. Fabric Vision had great sales tables and that’s where I found this fabric. It’s a while ago now that I bought it but I’m sure it was something like $6 per metre.
The sales table fabric was never labelled so it was difficult to determine exactly what it was made of. I’m pretty sure this fabric is polyester. It is very stretchy and has like a waffle texture.
I would definitely make the Toronto Tee again. I especially like its loose-fitting nature.
Whether you’re new to sewing or have years of experience, a well-stocked sewing kit is key to an enjoyable sewing experience. There are even a few tools for plus size sewing that can make all the difference to craft garments that fit beautifully and flatter every curve. Let’s dive into the must-have items for your sewing kit that will help you create stunning, size-inclusive pieces with ease.
Quality Fabric Shears
Fabric shears. The pair on the left has a plastic handle and shorter blades. The pair on the right has metal handles and longer blades.
Fabric shears are specialised scissors designed for cutting fabric with precision. Their sharp, angled blades ensure clean cuts and ergonomic handles provide comfort during extended use. Essential for sewing, they come in various sizes and designs.
Investing in high-quality fabric scissors is non-negotiable. Dull or poorly made scissors can fray or otherwise damage your fabric and slow you down. Having sharp fabric shears will make cutting smooth and precise.
TOP TIPS:
Keep fabric shears and paper cutting scissors separate.
Fabric shears can quickly get blunt if you use them to cut other things.
Ensure family members know this rule and to ask before they use any of your tools, not just scissors.
Measuring tape
Measuring tape
A measuring tape is a flexible, sometimes retractable tool used to measure length or dimensions. Typically marked with inches and centimetres, it’s essential for sewing, tailoring, and crafting. Its lightweight design allows for easy storage just roll it up or retract it into its holder.
Standard measuring tapes are great but for plus size sewing, you might need one a bit longer. Some extend up to 120 inches. This tool is important for accurately measuring body dimensions to ensure the right fit for all shapes and sizes. A measuring tape is also useful for determining fabric requirements and for making adjustments.
Pattern Weights
Pattern weights my sewing tutor made for me.
Pattern weights are heavy objects used to hold fabric and patterns in place while cutting. They prevent fabric from shifting, ensuring accuracy when tracing or cutting out patterns. Commonly made from metal, plastic, or fabric-filled materials, they offer a safer alternative to pins.
Fabric weights are especially handy when working with delicate fabrics can be easily damaged by pins. Slippery fabrics will often be easier to work with using pattern weights rather than pins. Just make sure you have enough to hold the pattern in place while cutting.
Pattern weights are fun to make. There are lots of patterns and video instructions online. Try making your own using one of the below patterns. (None of the below are affiliate links)
No sewing kit is complete without pins and there are many different types for different uses. However, pins can be prone to bending. They can also be painful if you slip and stab your fingers. Wonder clips are also useful to have in your toolkit. These can securely hold thick layers of fabric without the risk of snagging or distortion and I’ve not heard of anyone injured by a wonder clip. Clips are also helpful where the pattern calls for curves such as around a neckline or arm hole.
TOP TIPS:
Ironing with plastic headed pins attached can melt their colours into the fabric and possibly ruin your iron.
Glass headed pins are better in this situation.
Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marking Pens
Various marking tools.
Tailor’s chalk is a soft, erasable marking tool used in sewing and tailoring to trace patterns onto fabric. Available in various forms—such as pencils, squares, or wheels—it allows for precise, temporary markings that are easily removed after cutting.
Other marking tools can be erased with water. Some are erasable under heat from friction or when ironed.
Tailor’s chalk or fabric marking pens are essential for transferring marks from your pattern to the fabric. I find them especially helpful for marking and pinning darts.
TOP TIPS: Test fabric markers (and ability to erase) on scraps before using. Keep marks as small as possible and within seamlines or hemline wherever possible. Keep a spray bottle handy to wash out marks before ironing as the iron can set the marks into the fabric.
Seam ripper
Seam rippers.
A seam ripper (also known as a quick unpick or stitch unpicker) is a small tool used in sewing to remove stitches. It typically features a sharp, pointed blade with a small, curved end that helps slide under stitches for easy cutting.
Mistakes happen and that’s where a seam ripper comes in handy. Whether you’re making a minor adjustment or need to rip out an entire seam or more, this tool is a lifesaver. Careful use of a seam ripper ensures you can correct errors without damaging the fabric. Some people get frustrated when having to spend time undoing their work with a seam ripper but it is worth it to get the best result.
TOP TIPS:
Be patient and careful when using a seam ripper. Keep in mind that unpicking is part of the sewing process.
Measuring Gauge
Measuring gague.
A measuring gauge is a small, adjustable tool used in sewing to measure and mark precise distances or seam allowances. It typically has a sliding marker that can be set to different measurements, allowing for accuracy and consistency.
Half inch measurements are common for seams. A quarter inch is most often used in quilting but can also be common in certain parts of dressmaking such as necklines. Eighth inch measurements are often used for topstitching and under stitching.
Elastic
Examples of elastic.
Elastic is a stretchable material commonly used in sewing to provide flexibility and a snug fit in garments. It is typically made from a blend of rubber or spandex fibres and is available in various widths and strengths. Elastic can be sewn into waistbands, cuffs, and other areas where stretch is needed, allowing for comfort and ease of movement. It comes in different forms, such as flat, braided, or knitted, depending on the application.
Elastic is used for waistbands, cuffs and other areas. In plus size sewing, elastic can be particularly handy for garments that require extra stretch. For example you might be sewing a standard waistband but find the required cut does not fit well. Just a little elastic in the back or sides may solve the problem. Keep a variety of elastic sizes in your sewing kit to ensure you can add a bit if needed.
French Curve or Hip Curve Ruler
French curve.
A French curve is a curved template used in sewing and pattern drafting to create smooth, flowing curves. It is typically made of clear plastic or acrylic and features a range of curved edges to help design armholes, necklines, and other rounded areas of a pattern. The French curve allows for precise and consistent shaping, making it an essential tool for tailoring and garment design.
Pattern adjustments such as grading between sizes are often necessary in plus size sewing and a French curve can help you create smooth, natural curves, especially when adjusting bust, waist, and hip areas on patterns. It’s particularly useful when grading between sizes to enhance fit and comfort.
Hand sewing needles
Hand sewing needles.
Hand sewing needles are slender, pointed tools used for sewing by hand. They come in various types, each designed for specific fabrics and sewing tasks. Even if you primarily use a sewing machine, hand-sewing needles are handy for attaching buttons, hemming and small repairs. There are often fiddly areas where a sewing machine just can’t quite reach so a hand sewing needle needs to be used. Keep an assortment of sizes to work with different fabrics and threads. For example, if you are sewing beads on your garments (which can add a unique flair), you will need a very thin needle.
Needle threader
If you have impaired vision or unsteady hands, a needle threader will make threading easier. Let’s face it, threading the eye of a needle is challenging even for those who can see and hold thread steady. Most needle threaders feature a small loop of fine wire attached to a flat or decorative handle. To use, you insert the wire loop through the needle’s eye, pass the thread through the loop, and then pull the wire back, bringing the thread through the needle – easy peasy.
Tweezers
Tweezers.
Tweezers are small, handheld tools with two narrow tips for gripping, picking up, and manipulating small objects. In sewing, they are particularly useful for handling delicate fabrics, removing stray threads or placing beads and sequins precisely. Tweezers come in various designs each suited to different tasks requiring fine control and precision.
Tweezers are invaluable for fiddly jobs, such as pulling threads through tight spaces, removing loose threads, tying off ends or removing thread nests. They also assist in positioning fabric pieces accurately under the presser foot. I use my tweezers to thread my sewing machine needle. Tweezers provide a steady grip on the thread, making it easier to guide through the eye of the needle, especially for fine or slippery threads.
Pressing cloth
A pressing cloth is a protective piece of fabric used in sewing to shield delicate fabrics from direct heat when pressing with an iron. It helps prevent shine, scorch marks, or fabric damage by creating a barrier between the iron and the fabric. Pressing cloths are typically made from cotton, linen, or muslin and are used to protect sensitive materials like silk, wool, or satin. They keep seams crisp during pressing.
A pressing cloth can also be used when applying interfacing to prevent the sticky surface adhering to the iron. While you can buy pressing cloth, you can also make your own.
Points turner
Points turner.
A point turner is a small, versatile sewing tool designed to create sharp, crisp corners and edges on sewn items. Typically made of plastic or wood, it features a pointed end for precision and a flat, slightly curved side for smoothing seams. Point turners are essential when working on projects like collars, cuffs, pillows or bags, where neatly defined edges or corners enhance the overall finish. By gently pushing fabric outward from the inside, a points turner ensures clean, professional-looking results without damaging the fabric. Of course you don’t have to buy a specific tool, some people use a chop stick, knitting needle or other alternatives they have on hand.
Bias tape maker
A bias tape maker is a handy tool used to create custom bias tape from fabric strips. It folds the edges of fabric toward the centre, forming even, double-fold or single-fold bias tape for finishing edges, binding seams, or adding decorative accents. Bias tape makers come in various sizes to suit different project needs. They simplify the process, ensuring precision and consistency. While it is possible to make bias tape without this gadget, doing so runs the risk of burning your fingertips on the iron. Perfect for quilting, garment sewing and crafts, they save time and elevate the quality of handmade projects.
Pin cushion/pin tin
Pin cushion with thread catcher.
A pin cushion is a small, soft and often decorative tool used in sewing to store pins and needles safely and conveniently. Typically filled with materials like sawdust, crushed walnut shells, wool, or polyester, pin cushions keep pins sharp and prevent them from scattering. They come in various shapes, such as traditional tomatoes, wristbands, or novelty designs, adding charm to a sewing kit.
Rotary Cutter and Mat
Rotary cutter and mat with a ruler.
A rotary cutter is a circular blade tool used in sewing for cutting fabric. It functions similarly to a rotary pizza cutter, with a sharp blade that rotates as it moves across the fabric. Rotary cutters are often used with a cutting mat to protect surfaces and a ruler to achieve straight, precise cuts. They are particularly useful for cutting multiple layers of fabric at once and are favoured for quilting and garment making due to their speed and accuracy. Rotary cutters come in various blade sizes, typically ranging from 28mm to 60mm, depending on the thickness of the fabric and the cutting task.
A rotary cutter is most often used to cut small pieces for quilting. However, some dressmakers also use them as they can speed up the cutting process, especially on larger pattern pieces common in plus size sewing. However, they can be difficult to control and can slide off the cutting line and make cuts where you don’t want them. I’ve also heard of some terrible injuries sustained by people using a rotary cutter.
TOP TIPS:
Buy a rotary cutter that has a safety catch which retracts and locks the blade when not in use.
Always leave the blade retracted (and preferably locked) when not actively using the cutter.
Adjustable Dress Form
A dress form is a mannequin used in sewing to help create and fit garments. It is typically adjustable at the bust, waist and hip allowing for changes in size and shape to match the wearer’s measurements. Dress forms are made of materials like foam, fabric or plastic and are designed to mimic the human torso, providing a stable base for pattern making, draping fabric and fitting. While not really a “toolkit” item and definitely not essential, dress forms are especially useful for visualising how a garment will look on a body and ensuring accurate fit.
It’s not really a tool kit item but if you sew regularly for plus size bodies, an adjustable dress form that can be expanded to different measurements is a game-changer. This allows you to better visualize your garments during construction and ensures that your finished pieces will drape beautifully on various body types.
Final Thoughts
Having the right tools in your sewing kit is essential. These tools not only make the process smoother but also ensure the garments you create fit comfortably and look fantastic. Whether you’re creating a custom dress, altering a favourite pair of jeans or crafting a cozy sweater, make sure your sewing kit is equipped with these essential tools to bring your plus size sewing projects to life.
Most sewing fanatics attend classes or join a sewing club which means finding a way to get your sewing machine bag, toolkit and projects from home to venue. Your machine might have come with its own hard case or cover but a trolley or a padded bag to protect your machine, equipment or both is even more practical. Some factors to consider are:
portability;
capacity and expandability;
functionality – ease of packing and unpacking including usability, shape and layout;
durability;
security; and
style and design.
If you make the right choice at the beginning, you will have a practical solution that should last for many years.
Portability – moving your sewing machine and tools around
When choosing a sewing machine bag and toolkit, portability is one of the most critical factors. If you are going to attend sewing classes, workshops, sewing meetups or are taking your machine to a technician for a service, having equipment that maximises portability makes a significant difference in convenience and comfort.
Overwhelmed by all the stuff you have to carry? (AI generated image.)
Remember you are often not just moving your sewing machine. You are likely to need sewing tools such as fabric scissors, measuring tape, tailor’s chalk, pins, needles, thread, bobbins and many other handy gadgets. You may also carry bulkier items like fabric and patterns.
Portability can also mean being adaptable. Some sewists may want a larger bag for transporting more extensive projects but still need a smaller option for quick trips.
A well balanced sewing bag will reduce strain on shoulders, arms, hands or back when carrying.
A well-balanced sewing bag with padded shoulder straps or handles can make carrying your machine and supplies more comfortable, especially over long distances.
When your toolkit or sewing machine bag is fully loaded, the distribution of weight becomes important, especially if you’ll be carrying it around. A bag that’s too large may become cumbersome or heavy, causing discomfort in your arms, shoulders or back. Look for options that balance size with portability, ensuring that even when full, the bag won’t strain your hands or shoulders.
A sewing machine trolley bag with lots of external pockets.
A rolling sewing tote with a retractable handle (similar to bags you take on a plane) is an excellent option that can ease pain and strain on the shoulders or back. Many people put their sewing machine in a rolling tote or strap it to a trolley. If the trolley can accommodate the toolkit as well as sewing machine, projects and patterns, that is a bonus and saves time making multiple trips to the car and back for the various bags.
Having tools separate to your sewing machine when on the move will protect them and the machine. It will keep your machine from getting scratched or vital pieces like the needle shank or the spool holder from being broken or bent. If you regularly take your tools with you, look for a bag or toolkit that is lightweight but still sturdy enough to protect your tools.
Capacity – the expandable sewing kit
I’ve seen sewing friends arrive at classes with multiple bags and boxes carrying their equipment.
I have been known to pack my iron and ironing board in the car to take on a long weekend sewing retreat.
An ironing board and iron poking out the back side window of a small car. (AI generated image.)
For sewing adventures like this or if you’re primarily working away from home, a bigger sewing kit makes sense. Larger toolboxes often come with multiple compartments or trays, helping to keep everything neatly organised.
Keep in mind, you don’t have to take everything with you when you leave your sewing space.
If you only occasionally take your sewing things away from home, then you may not need a very big sewing kit (and you probably won’t need to take your ironing board)! In fact, you might be able to take only the few things you know you will need. You could put them in a pouch or small bag inside your project bag or sewing machine bag so everything is together.
It is not just frequency of occasions you sew away from home that might dictate how big a sewing kit you buy but how long your sewing sessions are and the type and number of projects you intend to work on.
Overstuffing a sewing machine bag will make it difficult to find the equipment you need. (AI generated image.)
Keep in mind that overstuffing a toolbox or bag can make it difficult to find what you need. Ideally, your storage solution should also allow for easy access to frequently used tools so you can stay productive and focused on your projects.
It is important to look after your tools and not squash them into spaces they don’t fit because they might get damaged or worse, they could fall out and get lost. Sewing tools are too valuable to risk this happening.
Think about how your sewing toolkit might grow over time. As you become more experienced, you may accumulate additional tools like specialty scissors, multiple thread spools and bobbins or even sewing machine attachments. Opt for a storage solution with extra capacity or flexible compartments to ensure you won’t need to replace your sewing machine bag or toolkit as your collection expands.
Consider investing in bags that offer expandable features or those with detachable sections, allowing you to customize the size based on your current needs. This adaptability can enhance your overall sewing experience, ensuring you’re always prepared for various situations.
Useability – easily find your tools in your sewing kit
Look for tool boxes or bags that allow for quick packing and unpacking. It’s a bit awkward when everyone has left the sewing class and you’re the only one left packing all your bits and pieces into various bags or boxes.
Bags with wide openings, sturdy zippers or magnetic closures can make it easier to get organised. Some bags also feature specific tool slots or elastic bands to keep items in place, minimising the time spent setting up or cleaning up after a sewing session. A well-designed toolbox or bag will have different-sized compartments or adjustable dividers, allowing you to organize your tools efficiently. Get to know your toolkit and where things are kept because these features allow you to quickly grab what you need without rummaging through the entire bag, making your workflow smoother, especially in environments where you may need to set up and pack away quickly.
A sewing toolkit with a place for everything and everything in its place.
Larger tools like fabric shears and rulers should fit comfortably without crowding smaller items like pins and needles. Look for cases with a mix of small and large sections or expandable trays to accommodate your diverse toolset without clutter.
Consider the overall shape and layout of the bag or toolbox. A compact but deep storage box might have plenty of capacity but if the compartments are too deep, you may find it difficult to retrieve smaller items and if tools are loose on the bottom of a compartment, it might mean the top becomes unutilised space. It could also make the sewing kit rattle when you move it and a rattle can be annoying, especially if travelling a long distance with your sewing kit in the car. A well-organised layout, with easily accessible pockets and trays, can save time and reduce frustration during your sewing projects.
Security – keep your sewing kit safe
When purchasing a sewing machine bag and toolkit, security might be something you want to think about, especially if you are traveling or storing your machine in shared spaces.
A bag with sturdy lockable zippers or built-in locking mechanisms offers peace of mind, protecting your equipment from theft or opportunistic tampering. In communal environments, such as workshops or sewing classes, these features act as an effective deterrent against unauthorized access. Of course, we want to trust our sewing friends but mistakes can happen.
Some sewing machine bags have plastic windows where you can place a name-tag. (AI generated image.)
For added security, consider marking your sewing machine bag (and the machine itself), toolkit and any other equipment with your name or a unique identifier. This can be done with personalised luggage tags, danglers, embroidered patches or permanent labels.
Not only does this discourage theft but it also helps prevent mix-ups in busy spaces. Having some kind of marker on your individual tools is also a good idea, especially if people are working in a busy classroom and everyone has the same equipment. You don’t want to pick up someone’s blunt scissors and have them walk away with your brand new ones. A small splodge of nail varnish works well.
Opt for a bag made of tear-resistant material. While it may not be 100 per cent tamper-proof, it offers an extra layer of security other bags may not have.
Durability – buy a sewing bag and toolkit that will last
Heavy-duty materials like hard plastic or canvas offer better protection for your tools while maintaining structure over time. If the toolbox or bag is large but made from lightweight or flimsy materials, it may lose its shape or not fully support your tools. It might develop holes through which your tools might fall out.
Examine the quality of the straps and handles and how they are attached to the sewing machine bag or your toolkit. Is the stitching strong? Are the handles stitched into leather or fabric that will not tear under strain? Are the joints strong?
If you plan to take your sewing tools outside, consider a toolbox or bag made from weather-resistant materials or a waterproof cover. Even taking your sewing gear between the carpark and class venue and back again and from the car to inside your home will mean things get wet in heavy rain.
Hopefully you won’t have to carry your sewing machine and equipment through floodwaters!
Water-resistant fabrics or hard cases can protect your tools from rain or spills, ensuring that everything stays dry and safe. Try a waterproof spray to protect a fabric bag. Some bags also come with reinforced seams and zippers that help keep moisture out, adding an extra layer of protection.
Functionality and style – can you pick out your sewing machine in a crowd?
None of the above factors mean you need to sacrifice style. Many sewing machine bags and toolkits now combine aesthetic appeal with functionality. Choosing a bag that reflects your personal style can make transporting your tools feel more enjoyable. Look for designs that feature bright colours or patterns, making it easy to spot your bag in a crowded classroom or workshop setting.
You may even choose to make your own bag to fit on a trolley for portability. That way you can choose your own fabrics. Check out this pattern to make your own sewing machine bag and customise it to your needs.
Summary
Remember when choosing a sewing machine bag, toolkit and ways to carry them and other items, portability, capacity and expandability, functionality including ease of packing and unpacking, shape and layout, durability, security and style and design are all factors to consider.
If you find yourself with equipment that is not working for you, think about why it is not working and what you could do to improve it. Don’t be afraid to try different things. You can always sell or donate items you’ve bought that aren’t working for you. They might be just the right thing for someone else.
By considering these factors, you can find a sewing machine bag and toolbox and a way to move them around that will serve you well both now and as your sewing practice grows.
