Over my recent summer holiday, I started sewing a toile of the Sandra Betzina Vogue Today’s fit jacket I fell in love with last year. I would normally try to avoid making a toile because in the past I’ve found it a frustrating waste of time. However, this time, I’ve already discovered many benefits. From grading between sizes and adjusting the pattern before even cutting fabric, to using stay tape, practising my topstitching, and thinking ahead to the final fabric choice, the toile has already proved worthwhile.
What is a toile?
In case you’re new to sewing, a toile is a “draft” version of a garment made with inexpensive fabric. It is usually made with similar fabric to that which is planned to be used for the final version but not necessarily so. It gives the sewist the chance to practice following the chosen pattern and working out any issues in the process. It allows the sewist to check the garment will fit well and adjust if necessary.
While some might be confident enough to dive right in with their chosen “good” fabric, a toile is an opportunity to slow down and make important decisions about fabric and construction first.
Yes, making a toile does take time which can be frustrating but if you’re in unfamiliar territory with techniques required for the garment you are making or you’re not sure if you’ll like it when it is finished, making a toile can really pay off.
Background
If you haven’t already, you can read the story about my inspiration for this jacket “The Jacket Which Swishes and Stays on My Mind” and the lengths I went to attempting to copy the pattern so I could preserve the original and why that was so important “The Great Pattern Copying Adventure”.
Grading to fit my plus size body
When I originally saw the pattern for this jacket, I checked the sizing on the pattern and realised I came between sizes I and J. Size I has bust 52, waist 47.5 and hips 54. J has bust 55, waist 50.5 and hips 57. I was ready to jump right in with the biggest size (J) and make adjustments afterwards like I usually would.
However, that approach is a bit hit and miss. I’ve often ended up undoing and redoing adjustments more than I’d like, and the results haven’t always been great. This time, I wanted to get the fit right from the start.
I’ve never had a pattern graded specifically for me before. My sewing class tutor suggested we try grading. I knew it wouldn’t require much as the pattern sizes were so close to my measurements so I decided to give it a go.
Grading the pattern
I’ll be honest: my sewing tutor did most of the grading for me. It didn’t feel like a proper lesson in how and why she made the adjustments she did but I could see the changes making sense. Watching the pieces take on “my” shape was a little thrilling, in a quiet, “curious anticipation” kind of way.
My tutor even pinned the paper pattern pieces together for me to wear so we could decide on some options. That was a new experience for me.
Finding my fit by adjusting and lengthening
One of the first really noticeable adjustments was lengthening some of the pattern pieces, especially the piece that goes from the shoulder to just below the bust. At first, I felt nervous about this. I didn’t want to change the pattern too much and lose the look of Jenna’s jacket which I admired. However, once I put the paper pattern pieces on, I could see the longer length looked better for my frame.
A fellow sewist in my class who had been watching the fitting process from her sewing space across the room also gave her opinion. She agreed the longer pieces were more flattering. That extra reassurance helped me commit to the change. It’s one of those moments that reminds me how valuable it can be to get a second pair of eyes on a project, even when you’re confident in your instincts.
Curtain fabric is perfect for a toile
After all the work with the paper pattern pieces, I was happy to be finally sitting at my machine with some fabric.
I had some old curtain fabric in my shed which I pulled out to make my toile. I feel a little embarrassed admitting that! The image of Maria in The Sound of Music sewing clothing from curtains for the children to play in pops into my head sometimes but I remind myself that the toile isn’t meant to be worn out. Its job is functional, not fashionable.
Having said that, if a toile looks good enough to wear out, why not? This is a decision for later anyway.
The scary “advanced” label
Jenna warned me that this pattern was “advanced” and Vogue patterns have a reputation for being a bit more challenging than others. I admit I approached it with a little caution and that’s part of the reason I decided to make a toile. If you’re ever unsure about a garment, the skills involved or fit, then make a toile.
This year (2026) will be my seventh attending dressmaking classes, which I think makes me a confident intermediate sewist. I wouldn’t call myself advanced yet.
After sewing the top part of the jacket toile — the back and sides, front and sides, and the back yoke – and attaching the finished bottom fronts and backs to the top, I hadn’t found anything overly challenging. In fact, it was satisfying seeing the shape start to emerge.
I don’t usually get a big “proud” moment from seams, but there was one curve that gave me a quiet thrill: turning it to the right side and seeing no pinches, no blips, just a smooth seam.
I was very conscious while sewing to keep the fabric flat under the needle, something I normally fuss with more on a “real” garment. That small perfection felt like a little reward for my patience and attention to detail, even though this is just a toile.
A wee challenge – stay tape
The next part of the toile was slightly trickier – applying stay tape along the shoulder and across the yoke. I’ve done this once before with a knit jacket. For that I used plastic tape which was horrible. This time, I have a polyester/cotton mix tape that is wider, pre-shrunk, and much easier to manage.
Stay tape requires precision, so I measured carefully, used lots of pins and sewed slowly.
It was actually not as difficult as I thought. I’m hoping, if I decide I won’t wear the toile when it is finished, I can unpick the tape and reuse it.
Adjust as you go
A toile allows you to make adjustments. The pattern had a place where fit could be tested. I put the jacket on and my sewing tutor helped adjust under the arms where the toile looked a little big. I have yet to attach the sleeves but once they are on, I can adjust fit again if necessary.
Practicing the details
One of the things that sets this jacket apart is the amount of topstitching. I’ve already done some on a couple of the seams I’ve completed, which has helped me practice and get a feel for how it will look on the final garment.
While doing a toile, it is a good idea to take a note of settings you have used as you sew. I have a 9mm foot width. I used the usual seam of 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) but for the seam topstitching, I moved the needle position to the right XX. I have made a note of this so next time I do topstitching, I can use the same setting and all the top stitching on the seams will be uniform.
The jacket has a covered zip and a lining. While I have sewn these elements before on other garments, this toile will give me a chance to practice again and ensure my techniques are refined and ready for the final version.
The emotional journey
Right now, I’m feeling a mix of confidence, caution, and excitement.
I’m confident because the seams are coming together and so far, the process isn’t as tricky as I feared. I am still cautious because the “advanced” label is lingering in my mind, reminding me to stay alert. I’m excited because imagining the final jacket in the perfect fabric, finished and wearable, is inspiring me and pushing me forward.
Advice for fellow sewists
The best tip I’d offer is to get someone to take a photo of yourself wearing the toile. Looking in a mirror can give you some idea of what the garment will look like, a photo gives another perspective.
Sewing this toile is teaching me patience, focus, and the value of small, quiet victories. It’s also showing me that it’s okay to adapt and problem-solve along the way.
- Learn how to grade between sizes to get a good fit. Get an experienced sewist to help.
- Try a toile first — it’s not just for beginners. It’s a valuable way to test adjustments, practise techniques and see how the jacket will look on your body.
- Grasp the challenge with both hands – even if the pattern is labelled “advanced”. Don’t let intimidating labels stop you. If you want this jacket, go for it.
Final thoughts
The Sandra Betzina Vogue jacket has been a wonderful journey so far — one of learning, experimentation and quiet victories. From grading the pattern, to experimenting with length and fit, this part of the project has been an immersive, thoughtful process.
I can’t wait to finish the toile, make any final adjustments, choose fabric and begin the final jacket. When it’s all done, I suspect it will teach me even more, such as the value of patience, attention to detail and following my instincts.
Join the conversation – leave a comment
Tell me about a time you were glad you made a toile. How did the toile help shape your final garment, size, style, fabric choices, feature elements etc? What have you learned from this post? What would you like to see next?