Topstitching my jacquard jacket made from the Sandra Betzina Vogue Today’s Fit pattern started out as a simple task I was looking forward to. Unfortunately, it quickly turned into a head-in-hands, “what on earth am I doing?” kind of moment.
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Perhaps this is why the pattern was described as “challenging” and why my friend Jenna, who had already made a jacket using this pattern, had warned me about it.
As frustrating as it was, it also became a little adventure in problem-solving, creativity and trusting my own sewing instincts. Here’s how I solved my tricky topstitching challenge.
Why topstitching on jacquard can be tricky
My usual blue tip needle had been perfect for most of the sewing on this jacket but once I started topstitching, the needle caught on the jacquard fibres. The stitches pulled slightly, leaving tiny horizontal lines along the seams. Frustrating? Absolutely. It was also a reminder that sewing isn’t always smooth sailing and that’s okay!
Finding my own sewing solutions
During class, I spent a solid 45 minutes pondering how to fix this problem and make the topstitching neater. My tutor suggested I needed to experiment to find a solution myself.
I tried a topstitching needle and topstitching thread. I adjusted tension and foot pressure. I tried switching to my walking foot. Nothing seemed to work.
Then I remembered seeing a demonstration of different needles and one was a microtex needle (AL). I immediately bought a packet and attached one to my sewing machine. The stitching looked better straight away. I had to try a couple of times to make sure. It seemed too good to be true.
Before too long, I was convinced it was the right way forward. It was a huge relief and I was glad I had found my solution. At least I thought I had.
The needle was only part of it.
Fun with thread
While it worked with a standard polyester thread, the thicker topstitching thread wouldn’t fit through the tiny eye of the microtext needle. I asked Linda at Timaru Sewing Centre for something in between. I needed thread that was thicker than standard polyester but thinner than topstitching thread.
She sold me a reel of Wonderfill Konfetti 100 per cent Egyptian cotton white thread (AL). She also suggested I try a variegated cream and grey option (AL).
The variegated thread was fun to experiment with but it mostly disappeared into the fibres of the jacket and didn’t have the effect I wanted. The white cotton thread, however, was perfect. The topstitching flowed smoothly, without catching or creating horizontal lines and I used normal polyester in the bobbin. There were still a few little pulls here and there but nothing like before. The white stood out really well against the fabric. I had finally found the sweet spot.
Reworking the stitches
I knew the difference was worth it so I carefully unpicked all the topstitching I had previously done with the cream polyester thread on the top front seams and the yoke. On the yoke, I’d even made a tiny stitch-length mistake. Instead of the recommended 3mm for topstitching, I used 2.5mm. It made the topstitching look like a solid line rather than neat stitches.
Unpicking was fiddly work but absolutely worth it. Sewing the seams again with the microtex needle and cotton thread was so satisfying.
Learning to trust my instincts in the sewing studio
While I was figuring things out, a fellow sewist was asking for advice on her own project materials. It reminded me that everyone has their own vision and goals in sewing. Sometimes the best guidance is simply encouragement to try things for yourself, make decisions and see what works for what you want to achieve. Those moments of self-reliance build confidence and, honestly, are kind of empowering.
Asking the right questions
By the end of class, I felt a huge sense of relief and triumph. Not only had I navigated a tricky topstitching challenge but I’d also learned to ask the right questions ahead of time. For example, “what needle is best for this fabric?” From now on, I’ll probably use the microtex needle for the remainder of the jacket, not just the topstitching.
Key takeaway for fellow sewists
If you’re sewing with jacquard or any tricky fabric, using the right needle matters. It can save you hours of frustration and help your stitching (not just topstitching) look smooth and professional. It is better to get it right from the start than spend time sewing something that doesn’t quite look the way you want it to. The little “aha!” moment when you see it come together is totally worth it.