As a plus-size woman, finding ready-to-wear garments that fit both your style and your body can be an ongoing challenge. I know when I find a garment I love, I want to buy it in all the colours. However, when I go back, I often find only one left in my size. That’s where Clone Your Clothes by Claire-Louise Hardie comes in. This book is an excellent resource for anyone who loves to sew and wants to recreate those wardrobe staples that fit perfectly.
My first experience of cloning clothes
Several years ago I had a flatmate who copied her store-bought clothes to make new ones either exactly the same or adding her own flair. It was a fascinating process to watch. While at that time I had been doing a bit of sewing from commercial patterns, I wasn’t confident enough to try making my own patterns. Now I’ve had five or six years sewing garments, I started thinking again about what my flatmate was doing. I searched my local library catalogue for “pattern making” and the book Clone Your Clothes popped up.
Publication details
Clone Your clothes is a David and Charles book published in 2024. The author is Claire-Louise Hardie. Some of you might recognise the name. She is the producer of the Great British Sewing Bee so you can be confident she knows her stuff about garment construction and pattern making.
You can buy the book at www.davidandcharles.com and there are other sewing-related books on the website that would fit well into any sewist’s book shelf. The Dressmaking Technique Bible and The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking are two of them.
What does it mean to clone your clothes?
Clone Your Clothes offers an innovative approach to pattern-making by teaching you how to replicate your favourite garments from your own wardrobe. Whether it’s a cherished t-shirt, a beloved pair of trousers or a perfectly fitting skirt, the book shows you how to turn clothes you already have into patterns you can use to make more the same.
For a plus-size sewist, this can be especially helpful. Finding patterns that truly fit our curves can be tricky but by using the clothes we already know work for us as templates, we can ensure a better fit, greater confidence and a wardrobe full of personalised, handmade pieces.
I need this book
My initial search in my local library catalogue offered Clone Your Clothes as an e-book. I never like reading books on my phone or laptop so I contacted the library and asked if it could buy the “real” book to add to its collection. Half an hour later, I got a call from the collection manager saying she thought it would be a great addition to the library and she put a hold on it for me so I could be first to borrow it when it arrived.
When it became available, I grabbed it straight away. The initial loan period wasn’t long enough for me to fully take in all the techniques in the book so I’ve decided to buy a copy for myself. I wholeheartedly and enthusiastically recommend it to you. This is a great addition to any sewist’s book collection.
Cloning school covers the basics
The book begins with a section called “Cloning School”. It sets the stage for all the techniques and tools you’ll need to make patterns from your garments. This chapter covers how to first analyse a garment and the order for putting the various parts together.
It includes a checklist to ensure you’ve got everything sorted before you start. It gives an overview of the techniques taught in the book and how to select the best method to copy the garment you’ve selected.
The direct measuring method is perfect for simple shapes
The first method introduced in the book is direct measuring which is ideal for simple garments with parts that have straight lines like cuffs or waistbands. For example, a skirt with an elasticated waistband is perfect for practicing this technique. By measuring the dimensions of the garment, you can begin to replicate its structure.
While it’s tempting to just buy a pattern, the beauty of direct measuring is that it takes the guesswork out of re-creating a garment you already wear and love. You get to use your own measurements from something that fits you perfectly, ensuring your new creations will be equally comfortable.
The tracing method
The tracing method is perfect for more complex shapes like sleeves, necklines, darts and pleats. The book uses a striped t-shirt as an example. It emphasises the importance of understanding fabric grain and how to align patterns to it.
This method highlights the beauty of paying attention to details that commercial patterns sometimes overlook. By tracing the garment and then transferring the measurements to pattern paper, you can recreate the exact fit of your favourite pieces with precision.
Creating different shapes using overdraping
Clone Your Clothes recommend using the overdraping technique for garments with intricate details such as cowlnecks, waterfall drapes, and frills. This method involves draping fabric over a dress form and pinning it into place, then tracing it to create your pattern. The technique can also be used flat if you don’t have a dress form.
This method gives you the flexibility to tweak designs as you go. It’s great for adding extra flair to a garment or experimenting with different silhouettes before committing to fabric.
Transferring the design to paper
This chapter of Clone Your Clothes shows how to true up seamlines which might be a little shaky from the copying process. It demonstrates how to match seams from one side of a garment to the other and how to neaten curved and straight edges. The book also gives instructions on how to add seam allowances. You add pattern markings (such as notches and fold lines) throughout the process.
The crucial fit test
You make a toile—a test garment from inexpensive fabric—to assess the fit and make any necessary adjustments before cutting into your precious fabric.
While it can be time-consuming, making a toile is essential to ensure the pattern you’ve cloned fits you just as well as the original garment. The book uses a dressmaking form to make and adjust a toile but if you don’t have one, you can get another sewing friend who knows how to make adjustments to help while you wear the toile.
This part of the process is particularly helpful for plus-size sewists as it allows us to adjust the fit for our unique body shapes and ensure the final garment will be flattering and comfortable.
From clone to capsule wardrobe
The final section of Clone Your Clothes, called design school, is one of the most exciting parts of the book. Here, you’ll learn how to take your cloned patterns and customize them to create your own capsule wardrobe. It includes five projects to test your skills including a camisole top, wrap skirt, shirt, trousers and a dress. For each project, the book offers three additional suggestions to redesign the initial garment.
The book encourages you to make small design tweaks which is a great way to create multiple versions of your favourite garments. For a plus-size wardrobe, this could mean creating a range of comfortable, stylish pieces that all fit together seamlessly.
Is Clone Your Clothes right for you?
If you’re a beginner sewist, this book will give you solid knowledge about the cloning method of pattern-making. However, I’d recommend having some basic sewing experience before attempting to clone your clothes. You need to have a good understanding of garment construction.
That said, if you’ve sewn a few garments and you love the idea of recreating your wardrobe favourites, then Clone Your Clothes is a must-read. If you follow the step-by-step illustrated instructions and take things slowly and carefully, you’ll soon be turning your most-loved pieces into patterns and creating your own custom wardrobe.
My best takeaway from the book
I’m really excited about learning how to clone my clothes. However, I’m a bit nervous too. One day I’ll take that first step.
The back cover of the book says: “By the end of this book, you’ll be able to confidently create bespoke patterns from your favourite clothes.” Even though I found some of the techniques in the book a little tricky the book has QR codes you can scan to access 11 demonstration videos. Brilliant! I just need more practice.
Final thoughts
For anyone interested in pattern-making, sewing or simply creating clothes that fit perfectly, Clone Your Clothes by Claire-Louise Hardie is a helpful resource. It gives you the knowledge and skills to replicate your favourite garments and customise them to suit your unique body and style.
Whether you’re a seasoned sewist or just starting out, this book is an investment that will pay off in your sewing journey. If you’re tired of searching for the perfect fit in stores or can’t find patterns that suit your size, Clone Your Clothes empowers you to recreate your favorite garments and transform them into pieces that are uniquely yours.
Ready to get started? Grab a copy of Clone Your Clothes, and let’s get cloning!